RPM for cutting binding channel

[johngrasty]

Hey,

How fast (approximately) do y'all run your routers/laminate trimmers when cutting a binding channel?

Thanks.

[fscotte]

I use about 25k with the dremel. The faster the rpm the better but dont bog it down or burns and dulls the cutter.

[amowry]

I usually have my router on full speed (23K) with a 1/4" bit.

[HoGo]

I usually have my router on full speed (23K) with a 1/4" bit.

It is important that RPM depend on diameter, number of edges of your tool and its material. And you should maintain steady motion of the material so the bit doesn't heat up and get damaged. Manufacturers ususally have tables of recommended speeds.
I'm using 8mm dia two flute bit at highest speed (25k in my case) and I'm cutting cca 1.5-2" of channel per second.

[johngrasty]

Thanks for the replies. It's helpful to have a starting off point.

[Oliver A.]

In addition to what amowry and HoGo said, it is important to have your cutters razor sharp. I hone my bits after every two mandolins using a 1200x diamond stone. The stone is about 3" X 1" X 1/4" and is designed to fit between the flutes of most router bits. I usually give the flat sides of the cutting flutes 10 strokes each on the stone with a drop of water for lubrication. I do only the flat side of the edge, never the bevel. In this way, I maintain a razor sharp edge and extend the life of the bit.
I also use "Bostick Blade Cote" to help avoid resin build-up and keep the cutter running cooler. It is not a miracle spray but I find that it does help some.

[HoGo]

In addition to what amowry and HoGo said, it is important to have your cutters razor sharp. I hone my bits after every two mandolins using a 1200x diamond stone. The stone is about 3" X 1" X 1/4" and is designed to fit between the flutes of most router bits. I usually give the flat sides of the cutting flutes 10 strokes each on the stone with a drop of water for lubrication. I do only the flat side of the edge, never the bevel. In this way, I maintain a razor sharp edge and extend the life of the bit.
I also use "Bostick Blade Cote" to help avoid resin build-up and keep the cutter running cooler. It is not a miracle spray but I find that it does help some.

Oliver, can you posta pic of the stone? My (rather expensive) bit is getting somewhat less than razor sharp and I was looking into getting it shortened by 1/4" to expose fresh edges, but if I can resharpen it myself I'd give it a go....

[Oliver A.]

Oliver, can you posta pic of the stone? My (rather expensive) bit is getting somewhat less than razor sharp and I was looking into getting it shortened by 1/4" to expose fresh edges, but if I can resharpen it myself I'd give it a go....

I'll try and get some photos up soon. If my memory serves..... they are DMT brand and I bought them directly from DMT online. (my memory is very good but it's short)
I find that the trick is to keep them sharp through constant honing. Once they are dull, it is much more difficult to get them properly sharpened again. For me anyway.

[Oliver A.]

As promised, here are two views of the diamond stones that I use for honing router bits. The three at the lower position in the photo are my favorites. They are 325x, 600x and 1200x. I almost never use the 325x on router bits. I usually use the 1200x on a regular basis. Sometimes, if I feel the need, I will start with the 600x and then finish with the 1200x. I always take the same number of strokes on each face to try and keep any reduction in bit diameter equal. I have kept my router bits going for many years this way. The bit in the photo is one of my custom made binding bits. Of course, spiral bits are not easily honed. I did try a spiral bit and while I liked its cutting action, I like the idea of a bearing guide so that the bit cuts the same recess no mater where on the bit the mandolin is riding. With the spiral bit set-up, there is one sweet spot and the rest of the contact points cut too narrow.



The spray cans are my blade coating and my bearing lube. They work well and I find them worth the price and bother.

The photo below shows the stones in profile.