Arrrrgh!

[Mandophyte]

I got my mandolin out at a session last night and found this:



What type of glue should I use to try to repair it. I have PVA and SuperGlue.

[Colin Lindsay]

I’d be tempted to buy a new one rather the gluing this one; it may give up again especially in the throes of playing...

[Tobin]

Yeah, I think a new saddle or maybe a whole new bridge assembly is in order. As a temporary fix to get you going again, though, you should be able to use a CA glue like Superglue, but you may want to also add a wood block under the saddle to support it down to the bridge base. Basically, making it act like a fixed bridge. You should be able to cut a block to the right height, slip it in there, and back off the adjusting wheels until the saddle is in firm contact with the block so it takes the load off the cracked/repaired saddle. It's not an ideal permanent solution, but should alleviate any fears of re-cracking until you can get a new one installed.

[Ron McMillan]

I agree that a glue repair is too likely to fail again - and, since a new bridge is not so expensive, that would be the way to go.

[Timbofood]

I an starting to think I should have a spare saddle cut and store it in my case!

[Jim Garber]

Deja vu all over again... Bridge of Sighs thread

[David Houchens]

If you place a block in the gap to support, don't forget to tighten the adjusting wheels back up as well. Or It'll buzz like crazy.

[spufman]

Ugh. Is your case applying too much pressure when closed?

[Pete Jenner]

It doesn't happen with Brekke bridges.

[Folkmusician.com]

How ironic that Brekke bridges, don't break.

I would superglue it and then insert a wedge. Down the road, you can replace the saddle.

[kkmm]

There is a large gap between the saddle and the bridge, could be the saddle a bit too thin.
You could glue it up and add a small wood block under the "glued" section to support it.
It will get you going in no time. To replace it, I would only replace the saddle not the bridge and fitting the bridge is quite a task.

[Wes Brandt]

If you look at the photos closely, both this bridge and the "Bridge of Sighs" serve as examples for how important it is to watch out for runout.

No surprise these bridges broke where they did.

[pianoman89]

If using superglue, Loctite pro in the blue bottle is the best I've ever found.

[Andy B]

Because your saddle is cranked up pretty high, the saddle is under a lot of pressure and a glue fix is probably not a long term solution. I think CA makes a tall saddle that might hold better than a standard saddle and would give you the same string height without having to crank it up so far.

[MysTiK PiKn]

Glue solution isn't it. The "block" solution is it. Ordinary white glue w the block under the saddle. Use the string tension as if it were a clamp. That would make a one-piece bridge, and better than what broke - plus it's already fitted.

Fit it first. Then delete the wheels. Then glue it - one solid sandwich.

I'll bet you $5 it will be better sound than before. Definitely LOUDER. Too easy.

[Mandophyte]

Many thanks everybody.

Spufman, there's no pressure on the bridge in the case, thanks for the thought though.

[Ivan Kelsall]

From Wes Brandt - "...how important it is to watch out for runout." Absolutely - Sharp corners = crack propogation points.There should always be a radius at those points(IMHO), or you run the risk of a crack ocurring as we've seen in the 2 instances of the bridges cracking.However,it will also depend to an extent on the quality of the wood used,
Ivan