I replaced the old ones with the blue urethane ones that I got on E-bay. I can't believe the difference. It works great now. I have looked up directions and videos for these urethane tires and...
Type: Posts; User: StuartGold
I replaced the old ones with the blue urethane ones that I got on E-bay. I can't believe the difference. It works great now. I have looked up directions and videos for these urethane tires and...
I have an older 28-243S Delta band saw. It has been a real workhorse for me but suddenly, it will not track and the blade fly's off after just a few turns. I saw a Youtube video on tweaking the saw...
As I mentioned in another post, I am currently working on building my first violin. So far so good :-) That being said, I have read about EVERY violin making book commonly on the market. Most...
I am currently building a scratch build violin. I have spent countless hours reading every book that I could get my hands on and many many pages of internet articles on building violins comparing...
Mike............ This is GREAT stuff. Thanks for all your hard work.
I think that perhaps when you reach the cost of some of the better know makers, it is a matter of look, feel, sound and at that level, the pedigree. If you use violins as another example. Modern...
Just as an update to this post of 2011. Ren Ferguson is now in the process of starting to build for himself again after more than 30 years working for Flatiron and being head luthier in the custom...
Here is the section of the bookAmerican Luthier: Carleen Hutchins - the Art and Science of the Violin by Quincy Whitney where she discusses "ditching" Perhaps this technique might be more viable to...
I have recently been reading Quincy Whitney’s book American Luthier: Carleen Hutchins–the Art and Science of the Violin, she mentioned that Carleen Hutchins came up with the idea of "ditching" more...
I have been taking my time building an oval hole F4 hybrid. Still a work in progress but progressing. I was inspired by the Mandolins made by Prucha in Eastern Europe...
Thanks for posting. I had actually seen that document but it still did not answer my basic questions and was vague about its descriptions. For instance it says something about waiting to rub out...
Sorry that I replied to to an old thread and did not start a new one. Hope that this is better:
I just bought some Hidersine oil varnish for use as a final coat to refinishing a violin. I tried...
Yes, that is true to a degree. However, each type of wood seems to have both generic and intrinsic qualities to working with it. Even if you got second grade maple and used quartered Doug fur that...
As I read this, I just don't quite understand why you would want to use pine and birch. The wood it not the issue. The issue is that it takes many many hours to create a mandolin. Less if you start...
I also put together an IV -F5 kit a couple of years ago. I had some of the same issues. If you look at the photos in the catalog, they never show the peghead with an ebony overlay. It's important to...
As I mentioned, the violin seems to have multiple layers of finish. Because this is the case, refinishing will not seemingly reduce it's value any. Right now it just looks gummy, splotchy and ugly....
Thanks for the input Marty. What is the best way to bring out the natural figure in the wood if I used your method?
Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it. Will the finish stripper that you mentioned interact with the hide glue and possibley destabilize the joints holding the violin together?
Off topic: I have built a guitar, banjo and mandolin. All these instruments used nitrocellulose lacquer as a finish. Recently my wife picked up a century old German violin, student model with no...
no, what I am pointing out is that an orthographic projection of the top, i.e. the view of the top in the plans for an F5 show the outline of the top and the position and shape of the "F" holes and...
I am aware that you can't print plans any other way. I was just trying to figure out how best to compensate for it on a 3D surface. Based on the brief discussion here, it may not even be necessary....
So how do the rest of us do this who don't have an overhead router. I can see measuring the center line and figuring out easily where to draw the perpendicular lined for the holes in the "F" holes...
I am currently carving two tops. Both are basically F5 clones. I've got a three sets of plans that I am comparing and I started to wonder if these were to be based as orthographic projections or not?...
Sorry to those who were unable to view the video. I uploaded it to my website:
http://www.shadowandlight.com/images/Ren.mp4