Searching for the right mandolin...

[mojocaster]

Well, I just sold my 08 Eastman MD605 after much deliberation. Really had a hard time doing it, because it's such a beautiful instrument and it sounds great. But the extreme V shape of the neck made it impossible for me to play for any sort of extended period of time.

At the core I am a guitar player - I gig 4-5 times a week - but I want to add the equivalent of a set worth of tunes inside of a normal 3-hour set w/ the mando as a change of pace. Not in one go, but peppered here and there during the course of the evening.

Went to the store and tried all kinds of mandolins. Well, five of them, really

All the Eastmans had that same neck profile or close enough, so no go there.

There was a Breedlove with a nice round neck profile that was close to perfect for me, but it sounded nothing like my Eastman did, and frankly the fit and finish was not all that impressive. Of course, it cost only $500 so I didn't have that high of an expectation, but still...

So I come to you hoping that you can advise me.

I like the F style, but I am not beholden to the scroll. The right A style will do fine, too.

I don't need a pickup, though it's fine if it comes with one.

I use it to strum, not to play single line runs or lead stuff. For me it's an instrument to accompany myself when I sing my songs. To wit:



Do you guys have recommendations? Thanks!

[George R. Lane]

Mojo,
What is your price range? It has been stated many times here on the Café, that an A style will give you more bang for your buck over a F style. If you like the Eastman's so much, I would have found a luthier to re-shape the neck. Check out the Café classifieds for a used A style. There is a good looking Weber Beartooth for sale right now. But, there a many others to choose from.
Good luck with your hunt.

[mojocaster]

Thanks! Didn't think of the reshaping the neck option. Because I'm a doofus, evidently.

I am fine with the A style, though like all of us I prefer the look of the F style. This said, this is for live work, not to look pretty on a wall. As for dollar range, I am thinking $1200 on down. I'll go look at the Weber. I did look through the classifieds but I got overwhelmed. There's a ton of gear there, and few of them list the shape of the neck.

[George R. Lane]

If you find one that looks good call the seller and ask them the shape of the neck. Most sellers will provide a 48 hour trial period, if you ask them.

[George R. Lane]

Here are a couple that might fill the bill.

Kentucky KM1000 most folks speak highly of them. http://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/102620#102620

Eastman 515 F model. http://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/103127#103127

[sblock]

If you're ready to move up from lower-end Eastman/Kentucky/Breedlove mandolins, then:

There were quite a few Webers made with a "C" neck profile, as well as those with a "V" neck profile.
Northfields have sort of a cross between a C and V -- you would need to try one out to see if it's to your liking.
Collings mandolins also have sort of a "soft V" that you might also like.

Also: BRWs, Pomeroys, and Rigels all seem to have more "C" shaped necks.

And yes, you can also have a neck reshaped. It doesn't take much work to round off a pointy V to make it into a "soft V", and -- to save money and additional work -- the luthier can leave off replacing the varnish or nitro finish, to give you a so-called "speed neck", finishing the bare wood with a bit of tung oil, instead. Works very well!

[George R. Lane]

sblock,
My recommendations were in line with his $1200 or below price range. I agree with your choices should he want to upgrade even higher.

[Folkmusician.com]

This is going to be a fun hunt!

The latest Eastman's seem to have a slightly larger girth to the neck (I don't think I am imagining this, but I don't have any older ones to compare), but it is not a big difference.

Most of the master model Kentucky's will have a more pronounced "V" than the Eastman's. Lower model Kentucky's have a V to them, but it is a more substantial neck than the Eastman's.

The Loar Mandolins also have a softer V with more Girth.

There are very few mandolins that will feel like the Breedlove Crossover you tried. It would be useful to know if it is the current version. The new version is better.

It sounds like you would like the Weber neck, but this is another price range for new.

Some of the less desirable mandolins have the neck you are describing, but as a whole, these are not among the best choices of instrument. Certainly not on par with your Eastman.

[Charles E.]

I noticed that the OP does not use a pick, so I think he would want a fairly responsive mandolin. I too would think that the Weber would be a good choice.

[pheffernan]

I use it to strum, not to play single line runs or lead stuff. For me it's an instrument to accompany myself when I sing my songs.

For $1200 or less given your application, I'd be looking for an oval. If you like vintage, you should be able to find a player's grade teens Gibson A (or twenties A Jr.) in that price range. You also might consider a flattop, such as a Big Muddy or Flatiron, which you might be able to buy for well less, especially used.

[Mandobar]

There are a couple Girouard's in that range (or very close to it) in the classifieds. A friend of mine has an Ode in his shop with a big rounded neck. Kind of like those Fender C necks. It's one of those Tut Taylor/Bob Givens joint venture builds. Not sure what he wants for it, but give him a call 203-458-2525. His name is Brian. (It's also signed by Dawg).

[mojocaster]

Thank you all so much for the info! And I agree, it's a fun hunt

[Randi Gormley]

Well, let me put in a word for a strad-o-lin. Vintage, relatively cheap and -- at least mine - has a pretty wide neck. They're generally much better instruments than their price would suggest, work fine acoustically and with a pickup and pop up here and there all the time. just a thought.

[itstooloudMike]

I'm also a guitar player who couldn't really get along with the Eastman 815 I had for quite a while. It was a beautiful instrument, but I didn't like the V-shaped neck much at all. I also thought it always sounded thinner than I wanted. Anyway, I sold it and found a nice used Weber Bitteroot A-style. The Weber neck shape works much better for me. Also, the Weber has a radius to the fretboard and frets that aren't as thin as the Eastman had. It's just more comfortable for someone used to a guitar neck. And the greatest part is how much better the Weber tone is. It's woodier sounding, with more bass emphasis. And lots more bark. I love my Weber, and won't be changing any time soon. You can find nice used Webers for between $1K and $1.5K, and they are well worth that. Just a very professional feeling mandolin.

[Stevo75]

I made the mistake in the past of thinking the neck profile was the problem for me when really the neck thickness (or the depth behind the fingerboard) was the issue (not the nut width, I have noticed that either 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 is good for me).

I first played a V-neck that I didn't like. Then I played a C-neck that I did like. After that I had a mandolin custom made for me and I specified that I like a rounded, C-type neck. It does not work for me at all because the neck is more narrow behind the fingerboard than what I need (FWIW, the nut width is 1 3/16" so it is not narrow in terms of nut width).

Then later, I played a mandolin with a sharp V-neck but it was much deeper behind the fingerboard and I really like the way that felt. At that point, I knew that it wasn't the C versus V that mattered for me, it was the depth/thickness of the neck behind the fingerboard. But I didn't know that at first, I thought it was the profile that I liked or didn't like. YMMV...

Anyway, just thought I'd bring this up to save you the same trouble I had. Now I know what to look for. And the differences are not that big. Something in the range of 1/16" to 1/8" difference in from the top of the fingerboard to the back of the neck measured between the nut and first fret will give me playing trouble and cause finger pain. I now know that 3/4" is to narrow for me, but 13/16" is workable and 7/8" is even better.

[mojocaster]

Found an eastman online that had a rounder neck shape, so I ordered it. I really wanted to try it first but my local providers have nothing that works for me. So here's to hoping it works out. Also, it was a really good deal so I decided to give it a shot... I'll let you know!

Thanks all again for the feedback and info

[Jim Garber]

Whoops! I was too late for this and you ordered a mandolin. If it doesn't work out you may consider what I have to say. You might consider a flat top for more sustain and since you primarily strum to accompany singing. You might even consider a mandola for a little more bottom-end. I was impressed by tone of the jumbo Big Muddy mandolin in this thread.

Big Muddy make a few mandolas like this one. I also believe that the maker will use custom woods and will make a mandolin or mandola with an extra-wide neck, if you prefer that.

There are other makers who make quality flat tops. Just a suggestion and certainly NFI on my part. I do not own a Big Muddy.

[gtani7]

Found an eastman online that had a rounder neck shape, so I ordered it. I really wanted to try it first but my local providers have nothing that works for me. So here's to hoping it works out. Also, it was a really good deal so I decided to give it a shot... I'll let you know!

Thanks all again for the feedback and info

Happy ending! I think you should still investigate any opportunities to look at/play as many instruments as you can, road trips to big dealers, jams, festivals, etc. I can recommend for Seattle area.

_______________

I had a few instruments that i hated neck shape or weight or combination of those, mostly Ibanez and Warwick bass guitars, I guess i just kept playing til the "logic" of shaping a neck like that sunk in.

[pops1]

I agree with Stevo75, I had a mandolin with a neck depth that was too deep for me. I can play a C or a V, but I don't like a really deep neck.