Stewmac fret arbor press system-any owners/users out there

[darylcrisp]

I'm looking at two fret systems from stewmac, I prefer the looks and thoughts of this arbor press system:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...ss_System.html

the other is the Jaws Fret Press-but for the cost, and what I see in additional use of the arbor system above, this tool is a second choice, cost wise also
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...ret_Press.html

appreciate any feedback from actual users/owners

thank you
d

[amowry]

I use my drill press, which works fine. I have simple homemade aluminum cauls that go in a 1/2" steel rod with a slot cut in one end and are secured with a pin.

[billhay4]

I use the stewmac press system caul and insert only on a drill press. Saves lots of bucks and works fine.
Bill

[billhay4]

Great minds think alike. Oh, wait, that was me and Andrew...
Well, I think like a great mind.
Bill

[Marty Jacobson]

I used mine on a drill press (the swivel caul) for a while, and it damaged my (cheap Harbor Freight) drill press. I got the little press from Stew-Mac, and it is way overpriced, but a nice dedicated solution even if it's not a superb value. If you have a beefy full-sized drill press, use that, but for smaller or lighter built drill presses, might want to be careful.

[mirwa]

I have both amongst many other versions, the hand clamps have a tendency to leave marks on the back of the neck, I would not recommend them, the arbor press itself is a good unit

Steve

[buckhorn]

I use a cheap Harber Freight arber press that is one 10th the cost.. but I fret before putting fretboards on the neck.. use a piece of oak 1 x 2 as a buffer between so as not to harm the fret wire.. sand an arch in the oak if radius is used.. works great for me and doesn't spring like with a hammer..

[Jim Hilburn]

Same as Buckhorn. Harbor sells the exact press for a lot less although you do have to modify it to accept the arbor.

[nkforster]

I used to press (i've gone back to the ol' hammer these days) and did so in the drill press.

If using the drill press, make sue you chock between the base unit (the bit that sits on the floor or worktop) and the under side of the rack and pinion mounted work table. I used a big piece of sapele around 4" square and 40" long. I'd stand it on the base and wind the work table onto it, then lock the table. It was the perfect height for pressing. Do that and you should save damaging the machine.

Nigel
www.theluthierblog.com

[V70416]

Darylcrisp,I think I may have the jaws system that I bought back in late 1990's. They have probably improved on it;but,I will look down
in the dungeon to see what all I have left of it. I never used it at all. Long story... More later.

Nigel,are you TAFKAN? Good to see you are keepin at it! Very nice website.

[buckhorn]

if using the arbor press you do have to be careful not to let the fret wire role and mess up the fret slot.. I take a triangle file that I take a few swipes to open up the slot a little.. the piece of oak helps to cushion between the wire and press..

[Jeff Mando]

If you search youtube under professional fret job or google under prs fret job, there is a video of a guy refretting a neck with a press and he does the entire neck in under 3 minutes -- I think the entire video is 3:09 Well, sure he gets a couple of them in crooked, but hey, it's only a PRS, right? And think what he could do, if he really took his time and spent 7 or 8 minutes on it.........pretty cool.

Sorry, I haven't figured out how to embed a youtube video.

[mirwa]

Anyone that refrets a neck in under 3 minutes is someone I would steer away from, yes it’s easy to put a fret in, but it is also easy for a fret to come out, taking ones time and respecting the item being worked on is part of the job.

Steve

[nkforster]

Nigel,are you TAFKAN? Good to see you are keepin at it! Very nice website.

I've no idea wheat you're asking me. What or who is TAFKAN?

Nigel
www.theluthierblog.com

[Jim Hilburn]

I'm sure the 3 minute guy isn't dealing with binding. I have always done Don McRosties method of using the tang nippers to remove a notch that allows you to hold the full length of wire while you press it in. But I not only nip away the tang, I use a needle file to remove all remnants of the tang so the part over the binding sits perfectly flat. I also have the roller to arch the wire and use Titebond to glue them in, a trick from Bob Bennedetto. I'm slow anyway but I'm sure a mandolin board takes me a couple of hours.

[sunburst]

I have a couple of arbor presses, I tried them and I tried the drill press for installing frets, I tried using the curved, grooved fret installing "thing" with a handle that I could hit with a hammer and smack the fret in all at once...
I went back to hammering frets in. It just works better for me. YMMV

[j. condino]

Marty, the problem is that you need to get a real drill press!!! Get yourself some nice vintage American 'arn like an old Delta or Buffalo or Walker Turner or such and you'll never complain about it again. I have folks from all over the area that come to my place just to use the old vintage drill press when it really matters for delicate work or things like the bridge holes in a rosewood telecaster...

I You can buy the same arbor from MSC or a number of other companies and importers for about $25.

To do excellent fretwork over all the possible conditions, you really need to have a number of different setups. I have a half dozen hammers and shop made cauls, I have the full drill press mounted system ( my primary for new builds), and I also have the vice grip style jaws- I LOVE that thing, but only for about the first 9 frets on a reftret, and a few others. Let your work pay for your tools. Do a fret job, buy a few simple things...do a couple more...buy a more advanced setup...worry about the plek machine later....

j.

https://www.facebook.com/Condino-Str...6588557518578/