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I like to press in frets using a fret arbor press and caul. I get a more level and cleaner installation this way. Typically, I don't have to do much fret leveling with a good fret press job. When you...

Royal Blackwood is torrefied Purpleheart (Peltogyne spp.) One source, at least for guitar fretboards is: https://alliedlutherie.com/collections/fingerboards/products/royal-blackwood. It is not the...

On second look, the shafts, especially the Ds and As seem short. Maybe the shafts have been modified? Here's a photo of a nickel set of MF40R tuners.

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Those appear to be Gotoh MF40R tuners. I know that Gotoh has different style/color buttons, so they should be easily replaced. However, I don't know of a source for buttons only. Here's a link to the...

I thought I would post a follow up to this conversation. The Silvertip epoxy grain fill method worked well on this guitar. The owner has been playing it for over a year and the finish is holding up...

I have used the GenOne plan. I purchased it several years ago when the company was named Georgia Luthier Supply. I looked over the plans and didn't see a note about leaving the top flat and 1/8"...

I have built a dread using plans from GenOne Luthier Supply (formerly Georgia Luthier Supply)....

I highly agree with John Hamlett on the futility of tap tuning. I have thumped on all my soundboards and recorded their overall pitch just for reference, after the mandolin or guitar was completed. I...

I picked up a "Jansjo" USB powered, flexible, LED light at IKEA for $5.99: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/jansjoe-led-usb-lamp-black-70291232/

I plugged it into a portable USB power bank and...

Here's some photos of my mahogany soundboard samples in progress. They aren't quite finished yet, but you can see the process in action.
First step, water based Trans Tint dyes on the mahogany (My...

Here's Oreo the shop border collie. She once had a beautiful tail, but she also likes to boss around trucks..

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A soft common nail can clear hardened stuff between the file teeth.

I would suggest a bigger diameter pipe so that you can heat more wood at one time. Judging by the burn marks, it appears that you might have lingered too long on individual spots on too hot of a...

The scroll will definitely be a test of lamination. It appears that Stew Mac does not have white/black celluloid strips. lmii.com or axinc.net are alternative sources. Unfortunately, the cost of...

I prefer celluloid binding. I've never been a big fan of ABS binding. ABS feels and acts like PVC pipe material. Celluloid seems to respond better to acetone - laminating and gluing to wood with...

If you're not using a thin piece of sheet metal bending strap to back the curves, you should. It will help prevent cracks. The more highly figured the grain, less water should be used. Here's a...

John did a much more eloquent description of proper fret hammering technique. What he said!

On new construction, I fret the boards prior to gluing. As stated, registering pins are the way to go. I use the Stew Mac arbor press with brass inserts in my drill press. It's pricey, but works...

The foam pads and Stewmac polishes will likely do the trick, but you might try a more gentle hand rubbing with a soft old cotton t shirt first. I've used Meguiar's M2 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner...

LOL - Totally agree.

A thing of beauty!

I removed a fingerboard held down with titebond a few months ago. I built the mandolin 10 years ago and was not happy with the neck angle - first step remove the fingerboard. I used an iron set on a...

I always fret first then glue the fretboard to the flattened neck. I leave the frets out at 2 and 10 and use a couple of safety pins to pin the fretboard and ensure that it stays lined up where I...

Oh wait! I'm way off track here. I thought we we're talking about fret slots...Still, a jeweler's saw is not likely the right thing. The blades won't have enough sizes to match the nut slots and...

I made a fret miter box that uses a rare earth magnet salvaged from an old computer hard drive. The magnet keeps the saw blade straight and tight against the guide, but loose enough to get the job...