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It was most likely hide glue to begin with, tho it was probably glued to the wood. Since it is not under any stress really it should be fine.

Celluloid has always been flammable. It is neither any more nor any less flammable than it was 100 years ago. When it gets old, it may become more flammable. Celluloid that was sealed with finish...

Use the guard to make a cardboard template and make sure it fits the top of the mandolin. Then get rid of that original guard safely. Don't store it in your house or garage. Follow rcc56's advise...

If the original pickguard shows significant signs of deterioration, I would avoid re-using it.
I have not found a satisfactory method for flattening old celluloid.

If you will give the dimensions...

Nevin’s correct, the ignition point of even fresh celluloid is very low, and a 100 year old pickguard has curled because it has changed it’s composition over time. This is why it may not flatten...

I have heated pickguards and then clamped flat, but it doesn't seem to be permanent. If you can find material that is similar I would make a new one. Since there is no tension on the guard anything...

Try it on a piece of scrap to get a better idea of how it works. The tape lifts the sandpaper surface above the areas adjacent to the splint. I usually use blue masking tape for the job-- it is...

Before you varnish, smooth it out some more by making a sanding block about 1" long and 3/4" wide. Secure some fine sandpaper to the block and then place a piece of tape directly over the sandpaper...

You can use magnets to hold the caul in place. Glue a couple of magnets to the underside of the caul. Put it in place and hold it in place with two more magnets. The neo magnets can be pretty strong

If you put a 60 watt incandescent light bulb in a bench light and keep it about a foot above the top it will dry the area out so you can remove the splint. It may take a few hours to a day, I use...

I have loosen4ed the fingerboard from the top and simply squeezed it back to together and glued with HHG. Leaving the frets in place. Reglue the fingerboard and file the ends of the frets.

Well, the "right" way to fix it is to pull the frets as far up the fingerboard as the crack extends, then loosen that part of the fingerboard from the top and the neck, then glue the crack shut with...

I would glue and secure the loose top first. You can glue the splint in later, either after the top is secure but before the glue has set; or you can let the joint set and glue the splint the...

I would let it sit for a few more days until you feel confident that the instrument has reached equilibrium. Slight pressure either way should be acceptable. Heavy pressure would not be acceptable....

Yes, that's the best way.

You're going to have to get creative.

You could make some cleats and glue them to the adjacent staves before you glue the new stave.
Or you could install a thin lip to the inside of the adjacent...

You could carve it out to the glue line and then clean the glue off

. . . How to remove the original stave?
Use a very sharp knife, and clean up the work with a small sanding block or file.

String gauge?
Lighter is better. Perhaps 9 to 34 on a bowlback.
...

Nice project for these doldrums. If you succeeded in an invisible repair including that crack, it would be something to brag about for several reasons, so the much more practical thing is to slice...

Out of the closet and on to the bench - good deal.
Those backs scare me.
Does it hold up to string tension now?

It would probably be easier to replace the whole stave than to try to make the new piece fit the irregular line of the break.

If you use bottled hide glue for the stave, make sure it is fresh. ...

It's called a "stave" and you're missing a piece of it. That will be a labor of love and there really isn't a wrong way to do it because I don't know anybody that would do it. Best of luck, keep us...

Some cracks are simply a shaving and you couldn't get it in the crack with glue. The glue seems to wick in the thin plane shaving. A larger splint would definitely need the glue first.

Pops, I assume you meant "fit dry, remove, apply glue, and insert" . . . ?

It might help if you can smooth out the inside edges of the crack a little bit, perhaps with an X-acto blade, or a very...

I usually dry fit them, insert dry, and then use hot hide glue.