In routing a 1/8 x 3/8 carbon fiber truss rod into a Gibson A, should I limit it to the neck, proper, or continue through the top and neck block?
In routing a 1/8 x 3/8 carbon fiber truss rod into a Gibson A, should I limit it to the neck, proper, or continue through the top and neck block?
It's not necessary to continue the channel / rod through the neck joint and into the head block. Besides complicating future repairs on the neck joint, the amount of support it adds in that location is negligible -- at least assuming everything with your neck joint is ship-shape.
Maybe I shouldn't say negligible, but it's not enough to warrant the major headaches of removing it if any other neck or headblock issues arise 50 years from now.
There are so many thousands of old Gibsons that clearly have no need for a CF rod, after 70 or more years. Why are you doing this?
Deleted. I didn't read the OP properly.
Paul,
I see your point. It started with a separated fingerboard on my 1915 A, which I removed, refretted off the instrument, and straightened with some upward pressure at the ends and downward along the length.
I then started following Stewmac's trade secret no. 9, which talks about mandolin neck straightening and use of a carbon rod. But a closer look with a straightedge now shows the neck is only .001" low at midpoint. A straightedge held over the entire footprint of the fingerboard shows a .032" low spot at the neck/body joint. I am considering clamping the system straight and hot hide gluing the board.
Thanks
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