Classical mandolin bridge -- insights needed

[Todd129]

Many thanks to the experts who take time from busy schedules to post here.

I acquired a classical mandolin for my son to play in a mandolin orchestra (pics attached). While it is a fine mandolin, the action is extremely high going up the fingerboard. The instrument is playable in the first position.

It's going to be 2 weeks before I can leave this with a shop for a set-up.

Quick question: In the interim, I've been wondering if this bridge type is going to have to be completely replaced, or if the bridge should be preserved and lowered.

Any insights, and your thoughts about what should be discussed with a luthier are welcomed.

Many thanks again for your time!

Kind regards, Todd

[bratsche]

First, is the neck straight and the fretboard flat? (What does it look like when you sight along the length of it, up and down?)

Assuming all looks well in that department, is the bridge in the correct place? (How is the intonation? Check the octaves at the 12th fret.)

It looks like that bridge saddle should come out easily. Maybe it needs to be sanded a bit shorter (from the bottom side). Maybe the base of the bridge could have some taken off, as well. But it all depends on the answers to the first questions.

bratsche

[Tavy]

Looking at the side on pic it would need an awful lot of lowering. So it's probably almost as quick to make a new all-ebony bridge. A lot depends on whether you're keen on keeping the original bridge "original". If not, then I guess you could sand that down from the top until almost all the bone has gone, then recut the compensation indents. And yes, you could do that yourself easily enough. What's the mandolin BTW?

[bmac]

We an assume you purchased this mando mail order to get the best price.... There is likely nothing wrong with the mando but it is simply not set up.... All mandos have to be set up... often after purchase new as in your case...

The bridge is made to be adjusted. The large black base is sanded to lower the bridge to playing hight.. Conversly the white part on top can be filed some to better hold the strings in position, and perhaps lower them to better playing hight. In addition the nut, where the strings first meet the fretboard, should be looked at and adjusted if needed.

Until these basic set up issues are addressed the instrument will be difficult to play and will be out of tune on the higher frets...This can be done by yourself or certainly a luthier can do it fairly easily.

frets.com has good information of mandolin and other stringed instrument set ups which should allow you to do it yourself...

There are other sources of this info as well which I am sure others will mention.

[Todd129]

Wow -- many thanks for the quick response.

The neck appears straight in my humble opinion, but I am no expert. One of the first things I did do was look to see if it was bending down the neck, or at an odd angle with the body. Looking at that to the best of my limited ability with a straight edge, it seems OK. The fretboard is pretty flat.

To answer your question, the intonation is poor. The pitch is quite off by the time you get to the 7th fret. Higher is way out.

When you say "bridge saddle" do you mean the white piece, which I am assuming is bone? If I understand correctly, is it correct that part may be separated and trimmed down by a luthier independently of the lower wood piece?

The reason I wondered if replacement was required is that the wood piece doesn't have much extra wood below -- it tapers to fairly fine points that are only a few mm thick.

[Todd129]

Thanks for picking up on that Tavy -- to my untrained eye the action seems quite high -- likely higher than the wood available to remove at the bottom of the bridge! To answer your question, this is a Pandini mandolin and as never been set up.

[Jim Garber]

I actually know both Pandini mandolins and this particular one. It was set up years ago when it arrived here but over time the woods shifted. Personally, I would wait and take it to the luthier before doing anything. I suppose in the interim you could follow John's advice and make another bridge as a temporary fix. My guess is that it will need a neck reset and that would optimize the tone rather than having a bridge about 1/8"/3.75mm lower. I think you will lose volume with a low bridge.

[Todd129]

Thanks Jim -- I'm just going to take it to Gryphon tonight and see what comes of it -- I'll let you guys know what they say. I was hoping to allow my son to keep playing it -- he's practicing daily now (!) -- and didn't want to take it away. That said, he can go back to a beater for a while.

All the best, Todd

[Jim Garber]

Phew, Todd! I feel better esp if it is going to Gryphon. It is in good hands. I do miss my Pandini (this one was not mine). It is a pretty substantial bowlback with a lot of volume and sweet tone as evidenced by Carlo Aonzo. Let us know what they tell you, Todd.

[Todd129]

Just had this mandolin examined by Steve Peterson at Gryphon Strings. Minor repairs and a set-up was all that was required; they will keep the existing bridge. Thanks to the people that took interest in suggesting what work might be needed.

BTW the instrument checked out fine. Even a crack that had me concerned was merely a finish crack. The only bad news is that it's out of my son's hands for a week

[Jim Garber]

Good news, Todd! Your son will enjoy playing it.