Mandolin kit- skip binding?

[Levi]

If I were to build a mandolin from a kit, would it be possible to build it without binding? Is the binding necessary? What is the purpose?

[Dusepo]

The binding prevents chips from the knocks and bumps every instrument will endure during it's lifetime. It's more important on the top, where a softwood is used, than on the back, where the wood tends to be a hardwood, and so is less prone to damage.

It's advantageous to do the binding, but not totally necessary, especially if you are just starting building and find it daunting.

[Fretbear]

There are four kinds of binding, as far as what you are describing.
1: The peghead. The peghead certainly does not require binding. A skillfully executed ebony or dyed pear-wood overlay can look great without binding.
2: The fretboard. The fretboard can be unbound, but is nicer and feels smoother if it is bound. This procedure can be done off of the instrument and does not involve cutting into the maple neck.
3: The back. The back does not strictly-speaking require binding as the maple back and sides are of the same type, make a nice joint and are a tough hardwood.
4: The top. The top pretty much has to be bound as you are joining two different kinds of wood, and the edges of one of them (the top) is very soft and prone to damage if left exposed. The binding also makes a necessary transition line that hides the joint between the top and sides.

[Nevin]

If you buy a kit, the binding channels may be already cut. A work around would probably be more of a hassle then the binding.

[Levi]

Does the binding help hold the top to the sides?

[Rodney Riley]

The kerfed lining or kirfling is what helps hold the top and backs to the sides. My Weber Gallatin is not bound.

[Dusepo]

Does the binding help hold the top to the sides?

No, it protects the soundboard from the outside.

[Max Girouard]

Binding looks great, but isn't necessary. There are plenty of instruments out there without binding that get by fine without it. Think violin family instruments. Those edges overhang the rim and would be very prone to getting hit, but there are a number of 300 year old instruments that seem to be holding up just fine.

[jim simpson]

Here is a Glenn that I used to own. It had no binding but did have an interesting carve.

[lgibjones]

I believe the Arches kit can be ordered without binding channels, and with a slightly oversize top and back if you decide to go the no binding route.

[whistler]

Does the binding help hold the top to the sides?

It does re-inforce the top-to-ribs join, but given the total gluing area of the blocks and linings, in addition to the edges of the ribs, a reasonably tight join should be strong enough. One advantage of bindings to the less experienced maker, though, is that they hide a less than perfect join between top and ribs.

Paul Hathway http://paulhathway.com/ makes unbound versions of all his instruments as a low cost option.

[belbein]

The Saga I built--a kit, my first--had binding channels cut. The Kawalek Octave I guilt did not: I did them myself. Next time: no binding. I just acquired a mando with no binding, and it is stunning.

[Levi]

Thanks

[David Houchens]

I just finished an A mandolin for myself. No binding, with dark sunburst. I kinda like the look. No problem to go inside and play around if I want. I'll post some pictures soon.

[Pete Jenner]

Does the binding help hold the top to the sides?

No. If anything it weakens the the link (but not much) between the plates and the ribs.
If you are going to build more mandolins then don't skip the binding - people like binding and it visually defines the shape. If you are just building one kit for yourself then you will have to make a decision based on your observations of other instruments. Look at lots of mandolins and find one you want to emulate. When it comes to protecting the edges, I'm somewhat of a skeptic.

[David Houchens]

Heres the A without binding. It only has one seal coat shellac and two thin rubbings of truoil.

[David Houchens]

Front view.

[David Houchens]

Back


I kinda like the plain look. I think it helps that the stain is dark.

[David Houchens]

Might as well show the peghead too for the truoil effect. Only two rubbed coats really leave the wood open pored.

[Levi]

I love the look of thinner finishes like french polish. It seems like it's worth the hard work in sound and traditional appearance (I've never done it, so I can't say for sure )

[David Houchens]

Well I sprayed the shellac sealer coat on and rubbing the two coats of truoil on with a small piece of rag was very easy. Just wipe on, and wipe off any excess. I love it. This ones for myself, so It may never get another coat, but you can keep layering to build it up if you want.

[Levi]

Well it looks fantastic. Not too glossy, but not that cheap satin look either.

[belbein]

Gotta say ... French Polish was not hard. Long but not hard (with advice from the fokks at the Cafe, anyway). Results are spectacular, too.

[David Houchens]

All my other mandolins are nitro and buffed out. I'm really tired of nitro lacquer. Decided to start playing with other finishes. This mandolin was just a quick one for myself so I wasn't worried about a full finish. I'm building a UV light box and will start playing around with oil and spirit varnish. Maybe on my guitars as well.