Martin D 28 vs Martin D 35

[Pete Counter]

I found this video pretty interesting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHbXJ69K8b0

[mandosonthemarsh]

Yes I have that same Alvarez...Use it for my open tuning guitar...Very special tone!

[Eddie Sheehy]

I have lusted after a Martin D28 ever since I was a kid. In 2004 I was finally in a position to buy one - I had been persuading my wife how badly I needed one and I just had to have one and I'd wanred one since forever... So she said why don't you buy yourself one for your birthday - which was 4 months away. There is a Guitar Center near where I work so every lunchtime I'd go there and play the D28 they had on the wall. It was fantastic. One lunchtime the guy there said "Why don't you try that D35 as a comparison?". So I did. I liked it. I liked it better than the D28. I only played that D35 for the next 2 months. Just before my birthday I told him I wanted to buy it. He said "Come with me". He handed me a TKL style case with the Marting plate on it. Opened it up and there was a brand-spanking-new D35 in there with the pickguard cover on and the endpin still in an envelope in the compartment. I took it out. Action was perfect. It was in tune. It played like a dream. I asked him to change the case to a moulded Martin case, which he did. I bought it. I have never regretted it. I got it for less than the D28 they were selling. Just my experience...

[Tom Haywood]

How do you plan to use the guitar? I've played a few D35s that sounded absolutely wonderful solo and in groups playing country or folk, but disappeared in bluegrass. I haven't played an HD35. I've played some D28s that sounded great in country and bluegrass bands, but seemed a little lame solo. Every instrument is unique. The scalloped bracing does make a big difference. When I was in the market a few years ago and looking at D28s and D35s, a friend who was a Martin dealer recommended the HD28 on the basis that I would never be in any situation wishing I had more guitar. He was right, except for the one occasion playing in a loud restaurant through a mic while everyone else was using pickups. To my ear, the D35 generally has a more balanced sound than the D28, which is a bit more evenly balanced than the HD28.

[Spencer]

I would welcome anyones first hand experience

Used to hang around a music store that sold lots of Martins, and played/heard many. They did vary quite a bit. I had both a D-35 (1967) and D-28 (1974) at one time, both considered by the locals to be in the better fraction. They both had real good bass, but the 35's bass was more mellow. A bit like the comparison between the bass response on a round hole mandolin (35) and and F hole mandolin (28)

Later on, we did some recordings with my D-35 and a friend's D-28, which I feel was not as good as mine (which I had sold by then) but still ok. Same player (owned neither guitar) played the same finger picking break on same mike with each guitar with a well qualified recording guy in a studio. With the D-35, the bass was so "boomy", you had to use a lot of equalization on the low frequencies to make it sound half way decent, and so we used the D-28 recordings. The difference was very clear on the recorded sound tracks.

Same guitars, same recording setup, this time the D-28 owner used my guitar while his was in the shop, same problem, and we had to cut the bass way down with an equalizer to get it to like his 28. It was especially noticiable on a flat picked break where he played in G and played down on the E string.

The above is, of course, a reflection of two individual guitars, but I think the same general comparison of my 28 and 35 held, the 35 bass was a bit more mellow, similar loudness, but this is my subjective opinion, and I don't have any recordings to back it up.

Both my 35 and 28 were really fine guitars, but I had some construction issues with the top on the 35.

Spencer

[fatt-dad]

have you tried medium-gauge strings on your D-28?

f-d

[EdHanrahan]

Since nobody's commented on...

Also, what are the differences in the 1970's D 35 and the present models.

..., the answer is: "Oh, about 40 year's worth of aging!"

While that could make a big difference, it also might not be as much as any instrument-to-instrument variation. Ya just gotta play & listen!

In case you're not aware, Martin's last "major" change across the whole line, from Brazilian to Indian rosewood, happened in '69 (although for the next few years, some random D-35s were built with Braz in the middle back panel).

[Rob Meldrum]

I bought my D35 in 1984. The local music company brought in a dozen different Martins for me. It came down to a D28 and a D35. I bought the D35, which happened to be their 150th anniversary model. The back and sides are all Brazilian rosewood. Gorgeous guitar, plays like a dream. Sounds better than any guitar I have ever played. Play everything you can get your hands on until something grabs *you.*

Rob

[Nick Triesch]

I bought a 1975 D28 brand new with school Vet money after the Navy. I was so excited to get the "one and only" famous guitar. But I was bummed, it had a thin bass side. Also the neck was not adjustable and really hard to play up the neck. I traded it for a new James Goodall Standard in 1981. Still have it because it does everything right. I will say the HD 28 and HD 35 are fantastic guitars. I remember 35 years ago I went to Westwood music in LA and the guitar guys told me that Martins were just hard to play. I bought one anyway.

[mandogoshen]

Have a martin 1998 D 28.. Beautiful instrument...The only issue I have with it is that I can't seem to get the bass the way I want it. The sound seems a little thin and seems to get lost in the huge body. I have tried everything from TI strings coated and medium. From my understanding the Martin D35 has a 3 piece back with thinner bracing which is supposed to increase the bass responce. I am wondering if it make that big of a difference. Been trying to get my hands on a D35 to see for myself but no luck so far. I would welcome anyones first hand experience...,.Also, what are the differences in the 1970's D 35 and the present models. Thanks, Bruce.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and try out a Rainsong JM1000. I've been playing over 30 years and THE BEST sounding acoustic guitar I've ever had the pleasure of holding in my hands is the aforementioned JM1000. It was a/t Guitar Gallery here in Nashville. I was w/a friend of mine who's a session player and finds fault w/EVERYTHING. He's a master session player...one can hear his work on Lee Brice's 'Hard To Love'. He's playing the acoustic and the electric. He was sitting across from me and I picked the guitar up and strummed a G chord. He just sat there mouth agape. He said one word..."Wow". Now keep in mind he's got a stable of instruments unsurpassed. Both electric and acoustic. Mandolin(s), OM, Tacoma Papoose, 40s D-28, '35 D-18...you get the idea.

My point is this. If he says 'Wow' about anything that's extemely high praise. I can tell you the bass response on the JM1000 is incredible. The only reason I don't have one is purely financial. Someday...

Btw, I've owned a dozen or more Martins, Guilds, Gibsons of differing types. My favorite was one I had handbuilt for me in 1980 by a Michgan luthier named Jan Burda. It had black walnut sides and back w/a red cedar top, ebony bridge and fingerboard, w/scalloped bracing from a copy of the original 'Ditson' 12 fret model that became the D-18 and 28 in 1933. Martin started to manufacture the 14 fret to body model in 1934 as the orchestral players wanted to access the C scale more easily a/t 14th fret. The S model Martins are more balanced overall than than the standard dreads.

[almeriastrings]

I remember 35 years ago I went to Westwood music in LA and the guitar guys told me that Martins were just hard to play.

Urban myth number one where Martins are concerned, but, just as you might not expect a regular music store or electric guitar repair person to do a good job of setup on an F-5, the vast majority of such places also have no clue as to how to set up an acoustic guitar correctly. This is true twice over for the older Martins (long, fixed thru-saddle, square bar or T-bar neck). To set these up right you need to understand neck/body geometry adequately and be familiar with how to work with those saddles. Newer design Martins (adjustable truss rod for neck relief, and short drop-in saddle) are more familiar to your adequate 'general purpose' repair person. Both types, though, can be setup to play very with just about any action desired - it is just a question of knowing how to do it properly. Martin, Taylor, Collings, Breedlove, Bourgeois guitars.... just like Gibson, Collings, Breedlove mandolins. Setup is critical and leaving aside individual preferences on neck profile/width, 'action' and playability is pretty much brand independent. Just takes a bit of work and someone who knows what they are doing.

[allenhopkins]

...a Michgan luthier named Jan Burda….

Anne Hills' ex-husband? I have an LP, The Panic Is On, by the duo...

[lukmanohnz]

Do yourself a HUGE favor and try out a Rainsong JM1000. I've been playing over 30 years and THE BEST sounding acoustic guitar I've ever had the pleasure of holding in my hands is the aforementioned JM1000. It was a/t Guitar Gallery here in Nashville. I was w/a friend of mine who's a session player and finds fault w/EVERYTHING. He's a master session player...one can hear his work on Lee Brice's 'Hard To Love'. He's playing the acoustic and the electric. He was sitting across from me and I picked the guitar up and strummed a G chord. He just sat there mouth agape. He said one word..."Wow". Now keep in mind he's got a stable of instruments unsurpassed. Both electric and acoustic. Mandolin(s), OM, Tacoma Papoose, 40s D-28, '35 D-18...you get the idea.

My point is this. If he says 'Wow' about anything that's extemely high praise. I can tell you the bass response on the JM1000 is incredible. The only reason I don't have one is purely financial. Someday...

Btw, I've owned a dozen or more Martins, Guilds, Gibsons of differing types. My favorite was one I had handbuilt for me in 1980 by a Michgan luthier named Jan Burda. It had black walnut sides and back w/a red cedar top, ebony bridge and fingerboard, w/scalloped bracing from a copy of the original 'Ditson' 12 fret model that became the D-18 and 28 in 1933. Martin started to manufacture the 14 fret to body model in 1934 as the orchestral players wanted to access the C scale more easily a/t 14th fret. The S model Martins are more balanced overall than than the standard dreads.

Those Rainsongs really are amazing guitars. Hard to believe such great tone comes from something made with carbon fiber. My go-to luthier/repair guy is Bob Groat in Santa Rosa, CA. He builds acoustic basses using carbon fiber, a la Rainsong. His instruments are hands-down the best sounding acoustic basses I've ever heard/played. Very articulate, focused tone. And double as canoes in a pinch...

[Perry]

Have a martin 1998 D 28.. Beautiful instrument...The only issue I have with it is that I can't seem to get the bass the way I want it. The sound seems a little thin and seems to get lost in the huge body. I have tried everything from TI strings coated and medium. From my understanding the Martin D35 has a 3 piece back with thinner bracing which is supposed to increase the bass responce. I am wondering if it make that big of a difference. Been trying to get my hands on a D35 to see for myself but no luck so far. I would welcome anyones first hand experience...,.Also, what are the differences in the 1970's D 35 and the present models. Thanks, Bruce.

One thing I've noticed is that bass response is perceived much differently when you are in the driver's seat vs. when you are listening to your guitar (or mando) being played from a few feet away. Bass sound waves take a few feet to develop so they say. Does your guitar still sound thin when someone else is playing it?

Also perhaps obvious but are you using a nice fat heavy pick? Perhaps a Blue Chip TPR 60 will bring out some more bass?

I have SCGC Pre-war D; rosewood sitka. It's got the forward shifted braces and is a very light build. The bass sounds great and big when I'm playing it but when listening back it doesn't seem as prominent. This I view as a good thing because overall it's a very balanced guitar.

[Caleb]

have you tried medium-gauge strings on your D-28?

f-d

I can't imagine a D-28 (or any other dread) without medium strings. Light strings don't seem to do dreads justice, at least to my hearing.

[mandogoshen]

Anne Hills' ex-husband? I have an LP, The Panic Is On, by the duo...

Yep, that's him.

[Nick Triesch]

I've always been pretty good at setting up my instruments and I did set up my 1975 D28. It was still hard to play just a little up the neck. Also the guitar guys at Westwood music were just not music store dorks. It was and still is a first rate guitar shop for many pro players in LA. The truth is/was that pre truss rod Martins warped up the neck, were hard to play and after Taylor's success, Martin had to change to an adjustable truss rod for an easy playing guitar. This is why so many players went Taylor, Goodall and Breedlove and the like. They played like glass with great bass out of the box. Now, modern Martin D28 guitars play like glass. They came around...they had to come around.

[almeriastrings]

The truth is/was that pre truss rod Martins warped up the neck, were hard to play.

Better tell that to all mine, then, because they don't know they're supposed to warp and be "hard to play".

As for "warping" a steel T-bar. Good luck.

I suspect there is confusion here over the need for neck re-sets and other issues.....neck re-sets are routine maintenance on Martins. Some need it sooner than others.

Frank Ford has a good article on this:

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...neckangle.html

Not sure what you mean that "modern" Martins are different..the D-18 and D-28 Authentic lines still use T-bars and do not have an adjustable truss rod.

[Nick Triesch]

I'm a old guy. I've owned old non truss rod Martins. And I've owned and played the new truss rod instruments. The new ones play easier to me. Maybe it is just my area where I grew up, Southern California, but Martin guitars from the early eras were known to play hard after the first 3 frets. I remember...I was there. And you could not dial them in like today's guitars. Also, thousands of D28 guitar were sanded for bass. A lot of players today will not accept that. But again, I was there. Why do you think Martin changed to truss rods after being so adamant about their neck system after so many years in the care and feeding book? I'm sure not saying the the old guitars were not great, just hard to play in many cases. We will never agree so I'll stop. Nick

[almeriastrings]

Why do you think Martin changed to truss rods after being so adamant about their neck system after so many years in the care and feeding book?

They changed because the short-lived square tube (introduced in 1967) was structurally inferior to the steel T-bar used previously, especially on the lower profile , thinner necks that players were increasingly demanding. So, around 1985 they adopted the adjustable truss rod. Excess relief on those steel-tube necks is a known problem. It can be corrected (one method is to add a carbon fiber rod). The late 60's through 70's were not Martins (or Gibsons) golden years exactly...

However... the old style T-bar's are excellent, which is why they continue to use them in the high-end Authentic line.

[StuartGold]

Not to try to broaden the discussion BUT a few years ago, I was able to purchase (at a ridiculously low cost) a Martin OM-35. I think it was back in production for only a year. Seems to have an amazing low end tone. Does the construction show the exactly same kinds of differences between the OM-28 and the OM-35 as you might see between the D-28 and D-35?

[Blueturtleman1]

Have a martin 1998 D 28.. Beautiful instrument...The only issue I have with it is that I can't seem to get the bass the way I want it. The sound seems a little thin and seems to get lost in the huge body. I have tried everything from TI strings coated and medium. From my understanding the Martin D35 has a 3 piece back with thinner bracing which is supposed to increase the bass responce. I am wondering if it make that big of a difference. Been trying to get my hands on a D35 to see for myself but no luck so far. I would welcome anyones first hand experience...,.Also, what are the differences in the 1970's D 35 and the present models. Thanks, Bruce.

If you are getting a Martin d-28 all the new ones are nothing special. You need to spend a few extra pecos and get the Martin HD-28V. Nicer finish and the forward scalloped bracing makes all the difference in the world. Beautiful warm bass tones and balanced high notes.
Check one out!

I have a Martin D-18 Golden Era 1934 Marquis series. It is indeed a banjo killer!

Trust your own ears. Cheers!