Nut width on vintage Gibson mandolins

[John Rosett]

I had to give up my 1919 Gibson A, because it was just too uncomfortable with my arthritic fingers, and I've found that the narrower (1 1/8") nut width is a lot easier for me to play. I know that the snakehead 20's Gibsons had narrower nuts, but they're unaffordable for me.
I'm interested in finding out about the nut width on Gibson mandolins from the 30's, 40's and 50's. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!

[pefjr]

I had to give up my 1919 Gibson A, because it was just too uncomfortable with my arthritic fingers, and I've found that the narrower (1 1/8") nut width is a lot easier for me to play. I know that the snakehead 20's Gibsons had narrower nuts, but they're unaffordable for me.
I'm interested in finding out about the nut width on Gibson mandolins from the 30's, 40's and 50's. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!

You can adjust the strings in on the nut and bridge to a more narrow string bed. Maybe it is the size of the neck that troubles your arthritis. The post truss rod Gibbys I have experience with do have a more narrow neck and a slightly more narrow nut and fretboard, but they have that TR metallic twang also.

[John Rosett]

I'm pretty sure that it is the actual width and size of the neck that I find uncomfortable.

[John Rosett]

So, nobody has a post-snakehead Gibson that they're willing to measure.....?

[wsugai]

Just a thought. I have played mandos with wide and narrow fingerboards (1-1/6" vs 1-3/16"), radiused and flat fingerboards, and fat and skinny neck profiles. I find that the neck profile has the most dramatic impact on my playing comfort (i.e., how long it takes for my hand to start hurting). It's probably because of how a fat neck profile forces my grip. Stumbled onto this by accident and it may just be me in my old age.

I'm pretty sure that it is the actual width and size of the neck that I find uncomfortable.

[dustyamps]

The nut on my 32 A-0 is 1 3/16 wide.

[Jack Roberts]

My '58 A-5 two pointer has a 1 1/8 in nut.

[Darryl Wolfe]

The snakeheads are usually right at 1-1/16 +- 1/32

[Jim Hilburn]

I've always thought the pre-Loar mandolins had the wide board partially for strength since they didn't have trussrods. Loar clearly preferred the narrow nut and the TR allowed for it. But it seems they went back to the wider nut pretty soon after the Loar era.

[Jonathan Reinhardt]

1942 a-50 1 1/8"

[Darryl Wolfe]

I've always thought the pre-Loar mandolins had the wide board partially for strength since they didn't have trussrods. Loar clearly preferred the narrow nut and the TR allowed for it. But it seems they went back to the wider nut pretty soon after the Loar era.

I posted this in another thread, but I feel reasonably confident the return to the paddle head was returning to older necks already in stock as a cost reducing effort to use up old stuff instead of constantly building from scratch for each and every FON

Hence, return to the wider neck which yes I believe was for strength prior to truss rod