Building Pickguards

[Darryl Wolfe]

I thought I'd share this with you over the next few weeks. Hopefully somebody will learn something, or better yet..teach me something.

[Darryl Wolfe]

The single hardest part is getting started. #As seen above, I have made a template from a scan sent to me (actually I scanned the repro pickguard I made this customer the last time, but I didn't make a template). #There are several methods to produce the template

In this case, I cut the paper scan out to the size of the tortoise, used spray adhesive, and cut out the template with the bandsaw. #I used the spindle sander and files for the inside corners to finish it up to the paper pattern.
The method I prefer the most is to pattern route a template directly off of an original pickguard. #This method is done very similar to the way the actual pickguard will be cut in the following posts.

Note: pay no attention to the actual guards posted in the picks....the methodology is all the same.

[Darryl Wolfe]

The finished template needs to have a least a 1/8" riser block. #I put them on each side, but this is not a necessity. #Lexan or most any sort of clear acrylic works well. #The riser can be acrylic, plywood or whatever. #In this case it's some left over Pergo flooring from my music room.

[Darryl Wolfe]

I need to step back and depict the essentials though....

[Darryl Wolfe]

A table type router..SAFETY GLASSES...and an assortment of bits

[Darryl Wolfe]

Now were ready to rough cut some blanks..use a pencil and angle it out to get about a 1/16-1/8" overcut tracing

[Darryl Wolfe]

Cut out your blanks

[Darryl Wolfe]

Apply double-sided tape to the riser block and trim down so as not to get into the router bit (and gum it all up)

[Darryl Wolfe]

If you "roughed it out" too much...trim some off...this will prevent snipe accidents where the whole assembly gets thrown thru your garage wall (or car window)

[Darryl Wolfe]

Now we are ready to route it out...I forgot a pic of this one, but here is another guard being routed. #This operation takes a strange combination of firm pressure on the template and touchy feely pressure on the bit. #Use smoooth long cut strokes to achieve a clean smooth cut...keep adequate pressure against the roller to avoid chatter

[Darryl Wolfe]

I'm using a flush trim bit above. #With a trim bit you can see the pattern, but they are a bit more difficult to get a clean cut with. #If you use a pattern bit with the collar/roller on the bottom (see the pattern bit photo), you would have to orient the template like this...and not be able to see anything but the oversized stock. #Once you get going with this orientation you can see how much you are cutting though.

[Darryl Wolfe]

All in all my buddy Kevin and I did this yesterday afternoon..with alot of breaks and interruptions

[Darryl Wolfe]

...and we radiused the edge of a couple of the A-model pickguards

[Lane Pryce]

Darryl thanks for the tour as I always enjoy seeing how you artisans do it.Great post. Lp

[GaryM]

It's this "sharing" of info from the experienced builders that makes this site so great! Thanks Darryl for all your efforts.

[Darryl Wolfe]

I'll add some more as this bunch progresses...maybe this will make me deliver "on-time"

[Dale Ludewig]

Darryl- what material are you using for the pickguards? It must not be celluloid for it would ignite, I would think, from the heat of the router bit.
Very nice setup. I a bit surprised that double sided tape doesn't flex enough to give you a bit of "wander".

I may be a bit paranoid, but then I put my thumb in the joiner some years ago. I'd recommend some sort of guard, even some wooden thing, to keep your fingers out of the bit, just in case something catches.

Great setup though. Flush trimming bits are our friends!

Dale

[sunburst]

Thanks Darryl. Some good ideas there.
From the "mother hen" department: I didn't see your hearing protection there with your essentials!

[Darryl Wolfe]

I just returned to the computer with some thoughts over the last few hours..and find questions regarding the same..

Hearing protection...yes /maybe # not too bad

Double sided tape...requires changing after 3-4 guards to prevent the wander..I use the cloth type reinforced stuff..sometimes it sticks a bit too much..again this is part of the control techniques regarding firm pressure on the template and gentle presure on the feed end

YES it is nitro plastic..and I was thinking about providing a picture of what can happen...LATER

NO..there is not too much to worry about when using routers regarding nitro (but get rid of the shavings.

YES.... there is alot to worry about when sanding...always sand at a cross piece angle..if you sand the pickguard straight edge on a stationary belt sander like anyone would normally do it....a huge nitro bubble will form at the tip of the pickguard...it will ignite .. & go away in a few second..but the tip will burn off.

The router bit makes little chips 1/8 wide x 3/16 long by 0.005 thick (a guess)...you put them in a pile and they burn like gunpowder. #The trick is to keep your continuity of combustibles to a minimum and you will not have problems...IE..vacuum it up, and/or brush it off and take it outside and strike a lighter/match to it to get rid of it.

[Darryl Wolfe]

PS..I've been using the same techniques since I started in 1976...I just make patterns and templates now so that I can afford to make them for others

[thistle3585]

Darryl,
How did you radius the pickguard? Did you use the tool shown in the picture?

[Darryl Wolfe]

Yes..I use a simple cheap chisel and file a sharpened half round spot in it with a chainsaw file. You simply use it as a scraper.

Next weekend I'll be making a new stash of reinforcing strips with the inlayed support rod.

[Jim Hilburn]

Hey, Darryl.
I ,by chance, just started making one for my next F. Here's a photo of the binding going on. The only place I've seen an example of how to do it was in the Siminoff book, and like so much else there, I disagreed with the process. Seemed to me it would be best to double sticky the tortise to a block that was cut to the final shape, basically giving you a rabbet notch to bind to. This would probably be best with lexan or teflon, but I haven't had too much trouble with the whole thing getting glued to the base. Here I have the long straight piece glued on, and I'm about to go bend and fit the curvey piece. I find it's best to start at the pointy forward end which has a more complex miter,so I end up having to cut the 45 at the end.

[Darryl Wolfe]

That is nice Jim..I think I saw a similar post by you. #I will be posting soon on my methods soon. #I do many style of guards and try to keep it simple....posts coming soon.

I've started using blocks similar to that to form the binding with a heat gun..essentially, if you get the binding shaped right, gluing it on is no problem.

I do find that a repro Loar guard is almost impossible to do with pre-laminated binding. It will look good, but it will not look right.

[danb]

Darryl, how about a photo of a 3-point F shaped one?