Loar Vs. Kentucky

[Jim Ferguson]

Well Dave.......that is fantastic. I have had excellent dealings with Dennis & the gang at TMS in the past........bought a lovely Eastman from them & it was a beauty. I've owned several mandolins over the years & have come to the conclusion that I do much better playing a wide nut mando. I came upon a The Loar LM 220VS several months ago & absolutely loved how it played. I read the specs on it at the TMS website & found out it has a 1 & 1/8" nut thus making the fretboard wider than the Eastman MD515 I was playing. Lesson learned for me...........any future mandos will be wide nut to accommodate my slightly larger hands...:-)
Peace,

[Nick Gellie]

The only issue with the current KM-1000 and KM-1500 models is that they come with a 11/16" nut. According to Dennis, a new model is is in the wings - 1 3/16" nut with a radiused fingerboard. They are going to let me know when one comes in. I would be interested in this version of the KM-1500 lacquered model. I have some reservations about the varnish models too. I don't think that the varnish makes that much to the difference to the sound compared to the lacquered model.

[FLATROCK HILL]

The only issue with the current KM-1000 and KM-1500 models is that they come with a 11/16" nut.

Not to point out the obvious, but I think there is a space missing between a couple of those '1's!

[papabear075]

Well it's been a few months and I have thoroughly been enjoying this fine axe. I am having a minor issue, it appears the truss rod may need adjusting. My G string intonation stopped at the 9th fret and is not that great at the 8th fret. I think the action looks good so I am guessing truss rod but I have no clue how to adjust it. Is this something I should take to a luthier or is it pretty easy to tackle on my own? I'm a little nervous about messing with it.

Thanks,
Dave

[Folkmusician.com]

Hi Dave,

This is something you can do yourself, but consider the truss rod adjustment independent of the action and intonation.

You want your neck somewhere between perfectly straight and a slight upbow. Measure this by fretting the E string at the 1st and 14th fret( at the same time) look at the 7th fret for a small gap between the string and fret. If you see one, it is correct. CHeck the G as well. You do not want a larger gap than the width of the E string.

More relief (upbow) can be added by turning the truss rod counterclockwise. Turn clockwise to remove relief.

Once this is set, correctly, move on to the action at the 12th fret. You want it approx. 4/64ths at the 12th fret G string. Lower on the E side. Once this is set then move on to intonation.

To set intonation, play the 12th fret harmonic and the 12th fretted. These should be nearly identical. If the fretted not is sharp, the bridge is scooted rearward. If flat, it is moved forward. Set the E and G. It is ok if the bridge ends up twisted. If you move the bridge very far, you may need to readjust the string height. Go back and forth until the height and intonation are correct. Once you have the E and G correct, check the D and A and decide on a compromise. You will not get all 4 perfect.