Is it possible to get an "in tune" mandolin?

[Adam Sweet]

Mandolins are hard to tune. It takes practice.

[narrick]

i think i'm playing slightly out of tune most of the time with my mandolin... but i just don't allow that to be a problem, i tune all the times needed, and as i play most of the time in the higher frets, the intonation problems aren't so bad...

it happens to me all the time: i find a problem in my instrument and later (maybe weeks or months later) i find the solution to overcome it... be it adjusting it or just playing a difficult part in a different way. i think it is all part of the learning process.

[Barry Wilson]

I'm a robster fanboy :P ... seriously though, I learned a great deal about setup and he provides links to frets.com etc for more learning.

and my mandobird plays great in tune and intonation, I still need to change the pickup though, I think that is it's biggest downfall. and tuning always go below the note and tune up to it, things stay in tune better then.

[mandroid]

as previously observed: 8 strings increases the odds that one of them may be in tune..

[Charlieshafer]

as previously observed: 8 strings increases the odds that one of them may be in tune..

at least one, maybe.

[FatBear]

Likely a saddle adjustment (if you have a movable saddle)

What is the saddle?

[Schlegel]

What is the saddle?

Part of the bridge, on an electric instrument, it's the little wedge or barrel nut that the string runs over. generally these are riding on a screw so the exact vibrating length of the string can be changed easily, and are propped up by a pair of small screws for adjusting the height. Here's an example from a J Bovier. (I have an EMC5, they definitely are one of the better factory electric mandolins, BTW.)

[FatBear]

Ah, that explains why I didn't know about it. My mandolin is about the simplest acoustic one you can get. :-)

Thanks!

[Richard Eskite]

You know what they say, a mandolin player spends half his life tuning and the other half playing out of tune...

[Jim]

Ah, that explains why I didn't know about it. My mandolin is about the simplest acoustic one you can get. :-)

Likely it has a saddle/bridge that can be moved to adjust intonation and action.

[FatBear]

You know what they say, a mandolin player spends half his life tuning and the other half playing out of tune...

I'm not particular about C on my A string sounding exactly like C on the piano. I don't play with a piano, or with a band, just by myself in my living room. But I sure would like C on both A strings to sound the same as each other. When they are not tuned alike it just makes my skin crawl.

[FatBear]

Likely it has a saddle/bridge that can be moved to adjust intonation and action.

Mine has a nice, simple ebony bridge. I'm in the process of learning all kinds of new things about mandolins right now. If I remove (or loosen?) the strings my bridge will presumably be moveable. I'm going to experiment with that. I suppose I can always put a piece of blue tape down in case I want to move it back.

[Charlieshafer]

Yes, do that with the tape, and only loosen the strings enough to slide the bridge in tiny increments without scratching the finish. Sometimes it needs a little twist, sometimes a parallel movement in relation to it's current position, but go slowly.

[JeffD]

[QUOTE]

Thanks to everybody for the information. It seems to me that the answer to my question is - no, you can't buy a 'new mandolin' and expect to be perfectly in tune.

?

Geting a proper set up is essential, for any mandolin, and most other wooden stringed musical intruments as well. And not just once, but at intervals throughout the life of the instrument.

I have to say that is pretty sad,

Nah. It is what it is. I am not saying everyone has as much hassle as you apparently have had, but perfect out of the box? this is a thing more ardently to be wished than seriously to be expected.

[mandroid]

Well an electronic signal can be run thru a pitch correction devise,

IDK,they may be helping out 'American Idol' contestants.. with those..

[FatBear]

Yes, do that with the tape, and only loosen the strings enough to slide the bridge in tiny increments without scratching the finish. Sometimes it needs a little twist, sometimes a parallel movement in relation to it's current position, but go slowly.

Thank you! But now I have two more questions: First, what is a tiny increment? 1mm? 0.1mm?

Second, when I take up tension on the strings, do they move enough to make the bridge tilt? It's only about 1/8" wide or so where it rests on the top and probably 3/8" to 1/2" high which seems kind of tippy if you pull the strings across the top of it.

Thanks.

[kkmm]

To the OP: do not give up on mandolins, all of yours are good, just need simple setup and they will play pretty in tune (not always perfect but close).
I had the same issue, can never tune my very first mandolin (brought on a trip abroad), and had to leave it in the closet for 7 years. Then I learn from the Web that I need to move the bridge to the proper place. Just a 5 mins job and I start playing mandolin like a mad man, I meant I really enjoy it.
18 months go by now and I have setup myself about a dozen mandolins and two guitars. FRETS.COM teach a lot about these.
If you learn this stuff, you could help your countrymen to setup their mandolins.

[Charlieshafer]

Thank you! But now I have two more questions: First, what is a tiny increment? 1mm? 0.1mm?

Second, when I take up tension on the strings, do they move enough to make the bridge tilt? It's only about 1/8" wide or so where it rests on the top and probably 3/8" to 1/2" high which seems kind of tippy if you pull the strings across the top of it.

Thanks.

That's a normal concern, and you can get the skinny bridges to tip if you simply tighten away. Simply use your thumb and fingers to straighten the bridge during tightening. AS you tighten, just look to see if it's twisting, and if so, stop, straighten, and tighten some more. Obviously, with really nice mandolins and bridges, this is much less of a problem, but with the lower priced stuff, it's normal. I spend a lot of time messing around with old beater mandolins and kids, so the bridges are always getting knocked out, not because they're really careless, they're just kids. As far as increments of adjustment, that's not a hard and fast rule, as it depends on how much the intonation is out. Sometimes they're half an inch out, but most of the time, play with 1-2 mm increments until you start getting close, then go smaller. Again, don't be afraid, you won't hurt anything that can't be put right back again.

[kjbllc]

after playing a number of different instruments I found out getting a quality instrument really paid off in the long run. Of course this isn't always possible, but if you are sort of serious about it take the jump if you don't end up continuing with it you get a much better resale value. I have bought a lot of crappy instruments, They make it much harder to learn and increases your desire not to practice. good luck with you journey in music.

[FatBear]

Short answer. Email me at rob.meldrum@gmail.com for a free ebook on how to set up a mandolin.

I saw this and requested the book. Wow, it's thorough! And full of down to earth advice that a non-luthier can use, like buying feeler gauges at Harbor Freight. (I got mine at NAPA, it's closer.) Even if you don't do your own work, this seems like a great overview. You will understand what can or can't be done so you can talk intelligently to the luthier if you choose not to do it yourself.

[JeffD]

so you can talk intelligently to the luthier if you choose not to do it yourself.

Or so you can talk intelligently to your luthier after you try to do it yourself.

[JeffD]

But I sure would like C on both A strings to sound the same as each other. When they are not tuned alike it just makes my skin crawl.

Now that I look this over, I have had this problem twice in my life. Both times on an E string. Once because the week before at a jam I had replaced a broken E string with what ever I had with me, and it turned out to be a different gauge, but I didn't notice and forgot. Back home a week later I could not get the two into perfect tune when fretted up the neck. It drove me crazy till I borrowed a neighbor's micrometer (I have the coolest neighbors) and checked, and sure enough the strings were different gauges.

Another time, also on the E string, also could not tune them in unison all the way up and down the neck. I then noticed that one of the E strings was securly in the nut slot, while the other was caught somehow up on the edge of the nut slot.


Stuff happens.

[Earthwood]

Short answer. Email me at rob.meldrum@gmail.com for a free ebook on how to set up a mandolin. in two hours you'll have a vastly improved instrument. All of the issues you mentioned are common to factory - shipped instruments. Rob

Do This! I got the ebook last night and it is chock-full of great tweaks and setup tips that I had no knowledge of when I first transitioned from guitar to mandolin.

I have a Rogue and an Eastman MD315. When I got my Eastman, I was ready to turn my Rogue into wall art, but decided to keep it as a project mandolin for practicing setup. After adjusting and fitting my bridge, the Rogue sounded MUCH better. I let a friend borrow my Rogue a couple weeks ago because his rock band has a few songs they want to throw some mandolin on (with how loud they play I doubt the mandolin would even be heard, so tone quallity is not a big concern). As soon as get it back, I plan on using the ebook to help me adjust the nut.

Today I feel like giving up on the mandolin! Is it not possible to get one with accurate intonation, without spending 10K? Should give up and just start playing guitar instead?

Don't give up! You can get a good sounding instrument for less than $1000. People have been really pleased with Eastmans and The Loar mandolins on this forum when they get them from someone who does a good setup. Use this forum because it is full of people with a wealth of knowledge and experience, and are willing to share it with people who need help. There are plenty of people like Rob who have taken the time to write ebooks, guides, make videos, etc... Also, use the cafe sponsors if you order anything. You are guarenteed a fair price and an excellent setup.

I must say this is the best forum I have ever been a member of. People are far kinder and far less critical than anywhere else on the internet where people have a little box to type their opinions without any repercussions

[Turnip Mountain Picker]

My MK was about the same as what you describe and it had way to much relief in the neck. I set the intonation as best I could and it still was bad. I quit playing ot for months and just played my Loar. I finally decided to pay the $90 for a pro set up. It was amazing the differance. He lowered the nut, straightened the neck via the truss rod. set the bridge and string highth and it plays and sounds awsome, I love playing it now and the Loar is only used now and then just to paly it.

One more thing about staying in tune. New strings have to reach a certain stretch before they will stay in tune. When I put on new strings I hammer away on chhop cords for about a week and then they sound great and stay in tune through whoe jam sessions.

[J.Albert]

"Is it possible to get an "in tune" mandolin?"

Yes. But not for very long....