a little progress over the weekend...no I didn't use my planer on them
a little progress over the weekend...no I didn't use my planer on them
Darryl G. Wolfe, The F5 Journal
www.f5journal.com
My hat's off to Bill B. and Daryl. I have enough trouble trying to do these one at a time.
I'm on the verge of finishing the binding on my latest ,and here's a couple of shots.
One more miter to go!
final rosette design
Jim Hillburn
I must say I`m impressed with your work Jim, very tidy neat construction. It looks like you`ve applied some finish on the mando back prior to doing the binding.
I`m building my very first mandolins, ( I`m building two F5s ). I glued the S rib to the neck block seperately because there was too much light showing through when cramped in the outside mould. I used a strip of cork floor tile which really pressed the rib to the neck block with no light showing through. Looking forward to the best part, the plate carving.
Bob Deacon
And here is one of the completed rib assemblies.
Bob Deacon
Bob- I cut thin wedges from leftover spruce to wedge the sidewood against the block during glueup.
Jim- this severe MBS is what happens when a luthier is left at home with no adult supervision!
this week: home alone necking.....
A nice $51 mando neck off ebay put to good use
Darryl G. Wolfe, The F5 Journal
www.f5journal.com
a little more
Darryl G. Wolfe, The F5 Journal
www.f5journal.com
Bill ,I hope those fingerboards aren't glued on yet.
Bob thanks for the encouragement. It looks as though your going to do well in the mando world.
There's nothing but bare wood with a little construction grunge on the mando.
Wow...that is one of the most beautiful back and sides I have ever seen on an insturment!
it absolutely amazes me that you guys actually MAKE mandolins... wow... :D
"wait until someday, 'cause when I know what to say, I'll say it in the best way you've ever heard..." ~nickel creek
Arrrrggggghhhhh. I`ve made a mistake when machine planing one of my two curly maple mando backs. I surfaced the bottoms and then jointed the gluing edges. I then ran them through my thicknesser to bring them down a shade over 5/8" because I can`t run them through my planer after joining, ( too wide for my thicknesser ). I thicknessed one side of a set the wrong way round. They`re now not book matched. Nothing I can do about it now I`m afraid. Please tell me it`s not too bad.
I wonder if you guys can help me with some info ?
What is a popular fingerboard radius for a mandolin ?
Any tips about finishing inside the body scroll. I normally spray my instruments with an airbrush and compressor, but it will be mid winter here in the UK by the time I`m ready to finish my two mando`s so I`ll most probably use brushing lacquer. Any info, tips, tricks etc would be most appreciated.
Bob Deacon
I wouldn't worry about the non-bookmatch thing at all. Looks like you've got some very nice looking wood there in its own right. Seems to me the most commonly mentioned radius for mandolins is about 12", but you might want to get some second opinions on that.
/Magnus
Thankyou Magnus
It`s not that bad after all. I squared up the ends on a miter saw and the grain of the maple is almost vertical. The only thing is the curly figuring will be at a slight tilt on the finished instrument instead of a slight herring bone pattern. I can live with that.
Well I have a 12" radius sanding block, so I`ve got that base covered. I have the adjustable radius block on back order from Luthiers Mercantile. With this tool it`s possible to easily sand a compound radius because it`s 13 1/2" long so it will cover the complete mando fingerboard.
Hope that arrives when I have need of it.
Bob Deacon
Still home alone, still no adult supervision! 3 on left have board hideglued on, 6 on right have them pinned with g string cutoffs in #60 drillhole. 12"radius except flat for blackie, in the background the alligator juniper body and birdseye neck of a lektrik geetar Im donating to the silver city blues festival
Great lookin' stuff buss
Darryl G. Wolfe, The F5 Journal
www.f5journal.com
OldWaveMaker
Your style and use of amber stains is what prompted me to buy two other mandos but I have to admit I love your use of flamed/curly, fancy woods! Your "whiskey before mando" has always been a favorite!!!!!
Mike Elia
I will try to post a picture of three red spruce tops that are in various stages of the carving process. This first picture is of a top with the steps carved with a Wagner Safe-T-planer. The red spruce billets came from Spruce (Bruce Harvie).
The next step is to start the recurve and general shaping with finger planes.
And the final shaping is done with scrapers and micro-mesh.
Steve, What are the numbers on the stair-stepped top? Is that in inches (.20-.65) ?? I did a similar process with my first mando, but didn't take as many "steps". I like the way you did it!
That's right KayBee, the numbers are hundredths of an inch. I also did fewer steps on my first attempt (0.10" intervals), although I would do each step removing 0.05" increments. I found it was much easier to control the Wagner Safe-T-planer than I thought it would be, so I did the next two using 0.05" steps.
nut is set up and bridge set up, intonation is next, and the custom case is on it's way.........
....
i am getting miiiiiiiiiiiiiiighty excited!!!!!
mantra: i am patient, i am patient, i am patient
http://www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/sn174_page4.htm
Mighty fine looking mando there Ira, you have to let us know how it sounds when you get it (like I thought you wouldnt hehe).
Keith
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