bending bloodwood binding?

[chipotle]

I am working on an IV kit and I want to bind with wood. I purchased some bloodwood binding and came to the realization I may be in above my head with this stuff. I used plain maple binding on my last project and while it was not "bent" in the proper sense, I was able to contour it to make it fit the shape of the A model body.

I have read a little on bending this particular wood and I understand that it is real tough. In the interest of a learning experience I want to try it and at least use what I have. If it does not work well I will try something else. I got impatient with my last kit so I am slowing down and being more methodical with this. The end sum is less important than getting there, though I do want a good final product. I really want to learn how to do a proper binding (among other things like finishing) and the IV kit is an inexpensive way for me to go.

Does this binding have to be bent much like bending the side wood? How critical is thickness of the binding? I have the Stewmac at .080 thickness. I am thinking I will have to try the hot pipe and steam bending method, is this correct?

Any help is appreciated! I am not looking for any trade secrets, just a little guidance with bending wood trim and eventually wood sides. I have already done a couple of these kits and I am thinking I would like to start making my own parts though I am lacking critical tools like a bandsaw. I will probably accumulate some items as time and money allow.

Thanks for any help!

[Tavy]

Chipotle, I'm a beginner like you, and I haven't tried bending bloodwood... but do you need it that thick? If you can thin down to 1mm before bending you'll likely be able to bend it very easily (as long as it's not the kind of wood that fractures...), that's what I do with rosewwod bindings anyway.

HTH, John.

[chipotle]

Thanks Tavy. I am not sure if this binding is routinely thinned or used as is. I imagine a lot of folks make their own. I don't have a means to thin it uniformly so I am hoping to use it as is. I understand this particular wood is very prone to breaking. I have found a blog where a guy describes his trials and eventual success bending this stuff. Guess I will just jump in and give it a shot.

[j. condino]

I've used bloodwood on probably 50 instruments; 'just ran a bunch through the thickness sander about an hour ago. When I worked for Breedlove, they loved the stuff. I generally make my own- it is relatively cheap on the commercial market- less than $10 a board foot, so I'll buy a five foot board about once a decade. Be careful not to overheat it or it will darken to a muddy brown from either too much heat bending or while cutting with a dull powersaw blade. DON"T inhale the off gassing fumes as you bend it- nasty stuff! New wood, new learning curve.The splinters can be very unpleasant. You can usually cut or scrape it very thin so it bends easily and stack your binding if needed, but .080 isn't that difficult to bend- not much figure or fancy grain. A simple scraper or razor blade and a steady hand are all the tools you need. Once it is in place, it makes for a rock hard protective edge on an instrument with a bold graphic.

Good luck.

j.
www.condino.com

[Tavy]

Thanks Tavy. I am not sure if this binding is routinely thinned or used as is. I imagine a lot of folks make their own. I don't have a means to thin it uniformly so I am hoping to use it as is. I understand this particular wood is very prone to breaking. I have found a blog where a guy describes his trials and eventual success bending this stuff. Guess I will just jump in and give it a shot.

Provided the binding remains slightly thicker than the binding lendge you're going to be putting it on, it doesn't matter if it's not completely uniformly thick. Suggest you start with a spare short length and experiment

[chipotle]

Well I went ahead and bent my binding today and I wound up with two usable pieces and minimal waste. Mr Condino, thanks for your input, that really helped me out! I figured a lot of pros cut their own.
And Tavy, I did not want to try to thin the wood without having a way to do it uniformly because I was worried about creating thin weak spots. I did go ahead and deepen the binding ledge slightly to accomodate my binding.
I did break my test piece, but I tried to keep a section evenly heated and used the steam to keep the hot pipe from singeing the wood. It only took a few minutes for the binding to "give way" a bit. Just pre-soaking it seemed to really give it a bit of flexibility. I don't think I'm ready to take on curly maple but this small success gave me enough confidence pursue other woods and eventually try maple sides.
I guess I was to worried about what might go wrong rather than just going at it.