Using ebony for a mandolin nut?

[Willie Poole]

I am not a builder but do some minor repairs and set ups from time to time and was wondering if any of you builders ever used ebony as a nut material on mandolins...If so what are the pros and cons of doing this?

Thanks, Willie

[Schlegel]

I'm not a builder either, but have replaced nuts...I've seen a lot of these on the cheaper bowlbacks from 1890 to the teens, and they are all significantly more worn than bone nuts of the same vintage. I'd hesitate to use it because if you like low action, it's going to need replacement or slot filling a lot sooner than bone. Bridges you have lot more tolerance for variation in height, and with an adjustable bridge, you can just raise it a little, so it's fine there.

[Paul Hostetter]

Ebony is fine for nylon strings but doesn't last as long as it should with steel strings. Nuts are a lot of work to do right. There's a good reason why most folks use bone.

[CES]

My Flatiron pancake has one. I like to think it contributes to the nice, woody, oval hole tone that mando has, but it probably doesn't significantly. I'm actually going to replace it with a bone nut when the time comes, but haven't yet gotten around to it.

[MikeEdgerton]

Martin and Gibson both used ebony nuts on some models in the early 1900's. I've seen them on Martin Style A's from the 20's and on the Kalamazoo's (Gibson) from the 30's. I'll also say I've never seen one that wasn't chipped. I'm with Paul, use something that will last like bone.

[big smiley guy]

Another vote here for bone just being more durable for handling steel strings. Ebony is just too soft in my opinion. As stated it works great on nylon/gut string instruments.

[Bill Van Liere]

I have an ebony nut on my 84 Flatiron Jr. So far so good. I really like the sound of this instrument don't want to change anything on it.

It does seem that ebony will be more prone to wear.

[Ivan Kelsall]

In the past,i've made replacement nuts for very old Banjos out of ebony,but only if they had an ebony one in the first place.Ebony is a good material,but as the guys above noted,prone to wear. Personally i'd go with using a good bone nut unless you need it to be black.Bone can be stained,but sometimes the results can be a bit un-even,
Ivan

[Big Joe]

Another vote for bone. We do use ebony or other very dense hard wood for nuts on fiddles and upright bass, but really don't like it for guitars or mandolins. It is not any more complicated to make than bone, pearl, or fossil ivory, but just does not last as long and, in my opinion, does not sound as good in most cases.

[Willie Poole]

Thanks to all of you, it`s just that I have some ebony laying aound and was wondering if using it for nuts would be a good idea, thanks again, you guys are the greatest when it comes to sharing info.....

Willie

[crazymandolinist]

*cough*zerofret*cough*

[Malcolm G.]

I'm coughin' too, Crazy!

I wish there'd be more, but that's a whole 'nother discussion.

Note - the ebony in my avatar - since replaced with bone.

[markishandsome]

I always use wood nuts - usually the same wood as the fretboard - because i like the look. I also always use a zero fret. Ebony does chip easily so file the fret slots gently. My favorite nut material is lignum vitae.

[barney 59]

My 1955 0-15 Martin has an original ebony nut. It was my favorite guitar for many years and has had lots and lots of use and it's still good. 55 years is a while.

[David Houchens]

If you're picky about your piece of ebony and careful about the angle of your slot and ramping it, they can last a good while. This said, I like bone and pearl.

[fatt-dad]

My pre-Gibson Flatiron 1N had an ebony nut. It's since been replaced.

f-d

[Mike Black]

Willie...I'd tell you to just try it and see if you like it. If not, make it out of something else, like Maple! I don't see any problem of using ebony for nut material. Some of this discussion sounds like ebony isn't hard enough and shouldn't be used. That being said, I wonder how many of them use ebony for their bridges? I bet nearly 100%. Personally... I have a bridge with a full contact ebony base with a maple top that has a bone saddle on that, coupled with a pearl nut. So the point is just experiment. See what works best for you. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!

[pops1]

Tusq is also a good substitute for bone as it has an even density being man made and bone doesn't always have that evenness thru it.

[Paul Hostetter]

Tusq is also a good substitute for bone as it has an even density being man made and bone doesn't always have that evenness thru it.

That's the ad hype. It's a nice enough plastic, but it's still plastic. Bone is better.

[Schlegel]

Willie...I'd tell you to just try it and see if you like it. If not, make it out of something else, like Maple! I don't see any problem of using ebony for nut material. Some of this discussion sounds like ebony isn't hard enough and shouldn't be used. That being said, I wonder how many of them use ebony for their bridges? I bet nearly 100%. Personally... I have a bridge with a full contact ebony base with a maple top that has a bone saddle on that, coupled with a pearl nut. So the point is just experiment. See what works best for you. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!

The wearing forces are higher on a nut than on a bridge. Closer to the tuners, so more string movement when tuning, sharper angle change from the board angle going to the tuners. The last is the big wear source I see on vintage nuts- the strings cut sideways and widen the slot-ends. I don't mean ebony is bad... I think it sounds fine. It will just need repair or replacing much faster than bone.