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Thread: Adusting action on a Mandobird

  1. #1
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    Default Adusting action on a Mandobird

    I just bought a Mandobird IV (MF) and I've read here about changing the pots and pickup to really make it shine. Been considering the Bill Lawrence L500 pup and maybe changing the vol pot to 500k. I need to measure the stock pot first; the cap is already .022.

    I like the little bird alot. It fills a great void for when our band plays country/southern rock. I took it out on it's maiden gig last night and just ran it thru a Epiphone Valve Jr. combo. It sounded pretty good but was real biting trebly. Tonight I'm going to try running thru a PODxT then to a Bose for a little more volume, tone variation and warmth.

    I definitely need to adjust the action on the little bird. Do I just lower the tunomatic bridge adjusters to lower the action, or do I need to have the string slots deepend on the nut?

    Thx,
    Doc

  2. #2
    Registered User mando.player's Avatar
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    Default Re: Adusting action on a Mandobird

    I'd start with the bridge and see what that get's you.

    In terms of brightness, some folks will tune it CGDA and go for the lower register. If you can wrap your head around the change it might be worth it. Since the Epi has no tone controls, you pretty much get what you get. Your PODxT should offer you a lot more tone shaping options.

    I'm pretty close to ordering a Digitech RP500 floor unit. I've been resisting it because I don't want to get obsessed with tweaking it. I guess I'll have to exercise restraint...LOL
    Charlie Jones

    Clark 2-point #39
    Rigel A Natural

  3. #3
    Mandol'Aisne Daniel Nestlerode's Avatar
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    Default Re: Adusting action on a Mandobird

    Yep. Start adjusting action with thew saddles. A good way to tell if the nut slots are too high is to listen for sharpness in the wound strings. Can you play a two finger D chord (2002) that sounds good, or do you need to play it closed (2452)?

    The nut is junk, so you may want to replace it on principle.

    I love the 'bird in CGDA: warmer, rounder, better balance string to string, and the pitch range is more guitaristic. BUT. You'll need to re-intonate the 'bird to make this work well. This will involve removing the last few threads on the adjustment screw of the lowest saddle. If your 'bird's nut is off even a little, the added thickness of the C string (.49 or .50) will exacerbate that problem. So you'll need to replace the nut. Finally, once you've got it set up and happy as a 'dola, you'll notice that the C string saddle is backed so far off the hole that you'll need to put a kink in the end of the string to get it to thread through the hole and into the bottom of the saddle.

    None of these things is a big deal, so try out CGDA. If you like it. Set it up for CGDA. If you don't, go back to GDAE.

    I'll be upgrading the electronics on my 'bird sometime soon. But maybe not the pickup. I love the sound of the stock p/up. I'll definitely replace the posts and wiring, and I'll shield it too.

    Daniel

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    Default Re: Adusting action on a Mandobird

    WoW! Lotsa good info there! Like Charlie said, "if you can wrap your head around it" for the CGDA tuning, I can see where it would be mellower. I may give it shot.

    The PODxT/Bose combo worked out better than the Jr. for sure.

    So, I lowered the saddles a little and the action is much better now. I need to check the chord balance next.

    Thanks for all the tips guys!

    Doc

  5. #5

    Default Re: Adusting action on a Mandobird

    I had to actually move the entire bridge assembly on my IIIX to get it to intonate. They put it in the wrong place.

    Where do you guys get new pickups for these things? I hate the one I have on mine. The high end make my filling hurt.

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