Key Decisions with a Custom Built Mandolin?

[Jonathan James]

I'm having my first custom mandolin built (scheduled for a Feb. 2005 completion) and I'll need to start making some decisions on specs soon. If you had it to do over again, what are the key things you'd do differently? Change of neck style? Finish? Wood type for top/back? Headstock design? Bridge? Tailpiece? One piece/two piece #back?

I mainly play bluegrass and tone is my first priority, but the other stuff needs to be decided as well. I do know I'm going with a spirit varnish and triple binding on a F5 style. Rest is up in the air.

Thanks in advance.

[Tom C]

I think your biggest decision would be to decide on traditional frets or larger ones. This will directly affect the feel of the instrument.

[Bowzette]

First would be the selection of the builder. I assume you have made that decision. Hans Brentrup built an "A" model for me and I am very pleased with it. If I were doing it again, I would have the neck unvarnished-stained and sealed would be great if it were still slick in hot humid conditions. I live north of Houston, Tx and humidity may not be a problem for you.

[Lee]

Yes, fret size as Tom said, and might I add radius vs flat, and also how many frets you want. Anymore thn 20 invades into some really nice picking area. Another consideration is fretboard binding. Unbound fretboards make fret replacement much cheaper. Decide on a tailpiece now too because they aren't all the same drilling pattern which makes changing later a little tricky. Also the string width at the bridge is a personal taste issue too.

[Lee]

Oh yeah, DON'T talk the builder into doing something he/she is not completely comfortable doing.

[mandofiddle]

Scooped extension. Depending on your playing situation, do you need a pickup? I had a pickup/mic system installed when mine was built. Saved money by not having to have it specially done.

[Lee]

Watcha getting anyway? It's not one of those...

[grsnovi]

Steve Stone (who posts here) wrote a great article that was published in VINTAGE GUITAR magazine some months ago regarding: "The Custom #### Shoot" about having a custom mando built. He may have an e-copy of his article, it would be worth your while to read as he explains all of the questions he had when he approached the "custom build" question as well as his experience working with the luthier (who also posts here).

[Jonathan James]

Thanks for the all the great responses. I did see that great article by Steve and I emailed with him as well, because I was also putting in an order for a custom Wiens F5.

[August Watters]

I can't believe no one's mentioned this yet: be sure to specify neck width at the nut! There's no guarantee it's going to be the same as whatever you're playing now. If #it's not mentioned, most builders seem to have standardized on the 1-1/8" neck -- but there is also a precedent for the slightly wider 1-3/16", and seems to me lots of folks prefer it these days.

And what about neck shape? Pointed-V, rounded-V, or fully rounded? These are big considerations.

August W

[Lee]

August is certainly correct. Rather than neck width, a more tell-tale dimension is the outside width of the strings at the nut. I've seen some mandolins with frets that don't extend to the outside of the neck binding, if there is any, or extending fully across the width of the neck. Also too, some fret ends are beveled less steeply than others and this will also eat up available fret width. So, with a set of typical J74's ask the builder about the dimension from the outside of the G to the outside of the E at the nut. While you're at it, check out the same dimension at the bridge. Some mandolins "splay" more than others.

[JGWoods]

I've bought several instruments made to order- and the best thing you get to dictate is neck specs that are to your liking. Frankly if I didn't know what I wanted the neck to be like I wouldn't order a custom instrumnet.

Nut width, string spacing, fret size, inlays, fingerboard width at 12th and 17th fret or so, what radius vs flat and the profile of the neck- I like big meaty ones because I have very big hands.

Ok- so they were banjos...

The other thing that you get to try and specify is the tone you are after- good luck- I'm a banjo player and a mando pretender, what do I know from tone?

best,
gw

[craigtoo]

If I order an F5 custom one day...(the day is coming...) I'll really talk to the luthier about how I want the action to be. (something I've learned from custom ordering Octaves and Zouks...) Real fine tuning of the action/playability can't be completely done at the bridge or the nut. The neck angle and the curvature of the neck/fingerboard are also important. (plus a thousand things I don't know).

To really fine tune it, I'll have to settle on string gauges and a pick etc. etc. I'll really have to know how I play and what I want out of the mando...

Just take time to get the know the Luthier (and for him/her to get to know you..) you'll be way happier with the results...

enjoy...there ain't nothin' better than getting an instrument that has YOU written all over it...

craig

[mandofiddle]

Another thing I thought of last night, since I'm having one built currently. Do you want a nekkid neck? On my current mando I took the finish off myself, but on the one I'm having built, I'm checking to see if he can do a nekkid neck and have it blend better. Since the back and neck will be golden blonde, it won't be too hard I assume...

[August Watters]

I think builders have differing ideas about how to go about getting tone -- so when we're specifying details of construction, to some degree as players we're intruding on an area where the builders should know better. So instead of dictating all the little details of construction and materials, I'd much rather tell the builder about what kind of tone I'm after -- and then ask the builder's idea of how to get it.

August W

August,

Couldnt have said it better myself.

Demetrius.