1994 Gibson F5L - Weber signed
"Mandolin brands are a guide, not gospel! I don't drink koolaid and that Emperor is naked!"
"If you wanna get soul Baby, you gots to get the scroll..."
"I would rather play music anyday for the beggar, the thief, and the fool!"
"Perfection is not attainable; but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence" Vince Lombardi
Playing Style: RockMonRoll Desperado Bluegrass Desperado YT Channel
If I hold a "polished" pick for more than 30 seconds, the slime from my thumb makes it very challenging to keep it where I want it to be. I always end up modifying an old heavy pick by heating a thumb tack with a lighter, and just barely poking it through to the other side (on both sides) so as to raise five or six sharp little bumps on the portion that I grip. Yes...slime...
No, not slime...
Well, strictly speaking, in biology, "slime" generally refers to mucus (that's Latin for "slimy!") , which is a slippery natural lubricant full of glycoproteins (that is, proteins with carbohydrates attached). This mucus is produced by the mucous membranes, found in the linings of the respiratory system (which make phlegm and 'snot'), the gastrointestinal system, the genitalia (ahem!), and so on -- where it provides lubrication, as well as bestowing useful antibiotic properties. HOWEVER, human fingers don't have any mucous membranes -- only sweat glands. So they don't, and can't, exude slime. But the sweat they do produce can combine with any oils, dirt, and dead skin cells on your fingertips to form a lubricant, and thereby make a pick harder to hold. With most smooth-surfaced ("glassy") picks, though, many folks find that introducing a little moisture actually ADDS to the tacky feel and improves the grip. Some folks will even wet their fingertips lightly (or even lick them) to improve pick grip. But the trick here is NOT to have lots of oil, dirt/grease, or dead cells around beforehand on the fingertips, which can mix with the moisture to make something "slimy." And not to use too much liquid -- only the thinnest possible film. So my advice would be to wash your hands before ever picking up the pick, so that any subsequent moisture (due to sweating) will likely improve the grip, and not loosen it.
BlueChip picks are made from a special space-age plastic (Meldin, a polyimide) that was developed for such things as aerospace applications (e.g., thrust bearings in jet engines!). It can routinely be used up to 600 degrees F (!) and it won't melt until closer to 900 degrees F. Pretty impressive, for plastic! So there is little chance that your trick of heating up a thumb tack to push holes into the flat side of the pick will ever work to raise bumps in a BlueChip pick. You'd need to get a thumbtack red-hot for that! You'd be better off drilling small holes clear through it, if necessary (some folks have already done this, but take great care not to weaken or break the pick; the BlueChip website talks about this).
If simply washing your hands doesn't work, or is impractical, then there are commercial substances one can buy to improve pick grip, like Gorilla Snot (try searching on this; there are threads about it). Or just try peeling an orange or tangerine using your bare fingers before grabbing the pick: you'd be amazed how grippy the natural substances that come off onto your fingers are!
Last edited by sblock; Dec-30-2013 at 8:34pm.
-----like Gorilla Snot---I just discovered this stuff and I love it and use it every time I pick...I just have to be careful and not use too much...It sure makes it easier to use a relaxed grip without losing the pick...
I have already bought more than 35 dollars worth of dunlop picks and found them lacking when compared to the Blue Chip...I am waiting on my Wegen order to arrive, so that I can compare them...I hope they are the Blue Chips equal, just for the sake of competition...
Last edited by ronwalker49; Dec-30-2013 at 8:16pm. Reason: To add something
I would love to try one of these some day for speed, when they reach Israel.
Durability doesn't really matter to me much - I usually end up losing picks, not breaking or polishing them to death.
Thought I would do my part extending this long thread. I ordered a CT55 this morning. I have used a JD Crowe BC pick for my banjo for several years. I had two of them, but lost one of them recently (arghhh). Can't imagine not liking a BC for my mandolin, as I don't want to use anything else for banjo picking!
Yea, I take my pick into the WC occasionally and wash it and my hands at the same time.
writing about music
is like dancing,
about architecture
it is amazing what a little soap and water can do for a pick. especially my ct55.
Incredible! My worship leader found a pick last Sunday and told friend of mine in the worship band. I texted a description and it was the CT55 I lost six months ago. I knew I lost it somewhere between the choir room and stage. I looked several times and never could find it. Now if she could find my rattlesnake rattle and I could find the one lost at home. It's the same color as my floors, just hasn't turned up yet. A scorpion must of got it!
A friend and I have a running joke whenever discussing pricey gear. After touting attributes,new say, oh,and it will make you a better player.....
Silverangel A
Arches F style kit
1913 Gibson A-1
Hi guys, for those using the Blue Chip CT 55 pick for quite some time, did you go for the 'Speed bevel' or the 'rounded bevel'?
Thanks!
Buying 2nd hand, resolved that question . But, as i have often used the tailpiece cover as an arm rest ,
the bevel is not aligned as needed, but its there.. rounded edge is neutral
Forearm well around the top portion of the rim, where your arm rests get fitted, then the bevel comes into play..
. '/,
writing about music
is like dancing,
about architecture
Thank you for taking the time to respond guys. I'm going for a CT55 Speed bevel and a Tad50-3R. Whichever I don't enjoy the most I'll give to my gf.
Unfortunately there aren't any to test drive here in Australia! (which with the $15 shipping, made sense to order two). Thanks again.
Mechanicallazarus:
I have found the TAD50-1R to be quite good, myself. It allows me to have both a rounded and a pointed tip. Mr. Goins would likely set one up with a speed bevel for you.
FWIW. I also have a CT55. I keep it in my wallet as a go to when trying out an instrument away from home.
Eric Hanson
Click #016/ Born on 2/29/08 - Sold to the next Conservator of this great mandolin!
The search has ceased! (At least for now)
Collings A-Style
White #29R : Oh my!! This one is so AWESOME!!
If you go to festival/jam/workshop, there should be enough BC's you can try for yourself, and I think one of the traveling pick samplers has at least 1 (that thread is getting loooong https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...erested/page36
I tried both, felt no difference. That's when i realized i hold the pick so it's tilted w/side towards fretboard higher. I do this playing guitar and mandolin w/different grips. (I guess the extreme form of this is what you could call George Benson picking)
Kentucky km900
Yamaha piano, clarinet, violin; generic cello;
a pedal steel (highly recommended); banjo, dobro don't get played much cause i'm considerate ;}
Shopping/monitoring prices: vibraphone/marimbas, rhodes, synths, Yamaha brass and double reeds
Couldn't resist bumping this thread, the granddaddy of the BC threads. I've got a TAD 40 on the way, adding to my TAD 60 and CT55. Used to have a TAD 80, and a TAD 100. That thing was a monster, definitely not for every mandolin or every player.
Still love BCs, and love reading threads about 'em almost as much.
2007 Weber Custom Elite "old wood"
2017 Ratliff R5 Custom #1148
Several nice old Fiddles
2007 Martin 000-15S 12 fret Auditorium-slot head
Deering Classic Open Back
Too many microphones
BridgerCreekBoys.com
Bookmarks