Tinted lacquer bleeding

[Steve Hinde]

How do you prevent tinted lacquer coats from bleeding back on the scraped binding when appling clear coats? Scrape the binding and coat it with what? Need to fill the 'ledge' anyway.

Steve

[Desert Rose]

In my experience the problem is that you are spraying to heavy a clear coat of lacquer

Once you get the hang of it and learn that THIN coats built up are the trick the bleeding will stop

Its especially important when spraying the first few coats, you want just enough to seal and not bleed and flow to much, once the colors are incased you can increase the coverage a bit more to build but since lacquer sprayed melts previous coats, if you get greedy you will get bleed

Its not that difficult just takes learning the correct flow control
Scott

[Steve Hinde]

My issue is the sharp edges on the color layers and the edge of the binding after scraping. Any NCL at all will cause the color coat to show at these points. Inside miter joints and such. With staining only, the ledge is not so pronounced as with a thicker lacquer layer scraped back.
I guess I'm asking about filling the ledge more than preventing the bleeding. Can I put a little shellac at these points and then start with the light coats to seal it all? What happens if the shellac is on top of the lacquer (by error) and then lacquer again, on top of that. Kind of like sealing wood binding before staining.

Steve

[Mario Proulx]

Shellac can go over lacquer, then lacquer back over shellac, no problem there.

Shoot your sealer coats(wether shellac or nitro) 'dry'. Until you have a barrier between the color and the clears, don't shoot wet coats.

[Steve Hinde]

Thanks Scott and Mario. Light and slow. Fill if needed. Got it.

Steve

[Jerry Haynes]

I usually stain , then spray a coat of laq, let it dry and then scrape the binding. This removes any bleed over on the binding. Only have to scrape 1 time. Hope this helps

[Steve Hinde]

The issue is using tinted NCL color coats and applying clear over that. The new layers dissolve the lower ones with color and cause the 'bleeding". I use stain first, then the colored lacquer for 'depth', then clear coats. The reason, is to get one color that I can't do with stain only. Like white or black. The stained appearance is completely different than a painted solid color or tinted lacquer.

How about clear varnish over the colored NCL as the clear coats, or water based lacquer?

Steve

[Bill Snyder]

I would worry about adhesion of varnish or water based lacquer to nitrocellulose lacquer.

[Mario Proulx]

The new layers dissolve the lower ones with color and cause the 'bleeding". I use stain first, then the colored lacquer for 'depth', then clear coats.

Yes, and nothing's different here. When you shoot your first one or two clear coats over the tinted ones, shoot them very dry ad light, and let them cure an hour or two. Once you have a couple dry coats on there, then you can shoot nice wet ones. If you still experience bleeding, keep shooting dry coats, and in fact, you can shoot are your coats on the dry side, and avoid all the issues.

[Desert Rose]

Yep Mario

This is rock solid advice and works great

My friend Sumi actually taught me this refined way and it really helped me in my general spraying to get thin wet coats

Scott

[Steve Hinde]

I got it I got it.
Just clarifying to Outatune about the lacquer bleeding, not the stain.
Again, thanks for the guidance. You are right, I used to 'wet' NCL layers. So, with the 'dry'layers, the flow out will come with the later layers, but the color will be sealed. As my German co-workers would say 'Alles Kla'

Thanks again

Steve