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Thread: Octave mandolin strings

  1. #1
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    I recently acquired a new Trinity College octave blacktop (I had previously owned a Johnson 550 octave which I sold to buy a tenor guitar which I sold to buy a 6 string guitar which I'm selling to pay for the Trinity College OM - you get the picture). I didn't really take to OM the first time around but I'm loving it this time. I'm currently using J80's but I saw on Tim O'Brien's website that he's using .56 - G, .46 - D, .25 - A .15 - E (unwound) on his Giacomel. This is considerably heavier the J80's. Do heavier gauge strings work better on short scale instruments? Anybody know what brand he's using?

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    Yes, heavier gauges work better on shorter scales. I have a 20-3/4" scale on my OM and I am currently using .014, .024, .032, and .046. Originally I was using heavier strings - .014, .022, .036 and .052. (All wound except for the first course). Finding what sounds/feels best on your particular instrument will likely require some experimentation. I don't think there is an actual "set" of strings that I can use. Therefore, I order single strings, usually from Elderly. I hope you don't have to change strings a zillion times before you hit the right ones. If you say what your scale is, I bet a bunch of folks will jump in and offer their ideas re: gauges. Judith
    Judith

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    The TC OM has a 20 3/8ths scale length. O'Brien's Giacomel is 20 inches scale length. It looks like the Thomastik Octaves go as high as a .62 G string on the heavy set.

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    Tension - boominess is always a trade off with playability and ultimately, the structural integrity of your instrument. This is a big reality. Some instruments are really made for heavier strings - which results in higher tension on the neck, the top and the neck joint of the instrument.

    Generally, as production instruments, T/C's and other Pac Rim instruments are lighter in construction. So - you have to be a bit pessimistic in creating a custom string set. Err on the light side, then if it feels as if one course could be brought up a bit, get the next thicker strings and ease into it. Getting a string tension calculator can really ease the cost and mistakes. Just talking and comparing scale lengths doesn't really do it as - instruments with the same scale length could have radically different top, neck, construction methods and neck set angle from another instrument.

    If you haven't got a string calculator downloaded, I'd suggest going over to Doug Deiter's web site - http://www.kennaquhair.com/ and scrolling down to the bottom of the menu on the left and down loading his 'Universal String Calculator' (While you're on his site, you may want to scan some of his interesting, well built instruments). While this calculator doesn't have every possible string combination, it will at least let you experiment on getting a balanced set of strings. A balanced set is one which all the string courses are within a few pounds tension of each other.

    To me, that really is the trick to getting a balanced feel and sound output on any fretted instrument. On a T/C, a light balanced sound output can generally make a delightful instrument to play and enjoy. Having a course or two which is too light or too heavy can make it miserable.

    (Doug's Calculator has been cranky lately - does anyone have any other suggestions for a free, uncomplicated download?)
    Mandola fever is permanent.

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    Registered User Steve Baker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by
    (Doug's Calculator has been cranky lately - does anyone have any other suggestions for a free, uncomplicated download?)
    Go to www.McDonaldstrings.com. Graham has a very nice string tension calculator on the site. You can gawk at the extraordinary instruments while you're there.

    FWIW.

    Steve

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    MDW - the thomastiks that you mention (with .062) seem too heavy. Dion is right about being careful to avoid too much tension on the neck. If it helps at all, my OM is quite light, as is Otter's (I'm surprised she hasn't given her 2 cents yet), and I believe we use approximately the same gauge strings. Since your scale length is shorter than mine, I'd think you'd have to use slightly heavier strings to compensate - maybe like the gauges I mentioned originally, in my first response. Otter's scale length is closer to yours - 20.5, I think. Judith
    Judith

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    2c?... ok.
    yes... I use gauges similar to Judith... 14,24,34,44... and like her have to order custom sets for my 20.5" scale OMs. The standardized sets for OMs are typically made for instruments with about a 22.5" scale, so they are too light for my instrument and also for my playing style. I arrived at this through some experimentation. I actually like the sound of 6's better (16,26,36,46), but am erring on the side of caution and playability in keeping them at the 4's.

    The original set that came on the Dean OM was lighter on the high end and heavier on the low end and I traded off the thicker low end strings for more "oomph" on the higher end. (in order to keep the overall tension reasonably close to what the luthier recommended). My instrument happens to tend towards a boomy sound, so this adjustment made sense. YMMV, of course.

    KE
    Karen Escovitz
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    Brian Dean OM #32
    Old Wave Mandola #372
    Phoenix Neoclassical #256
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    I've got a set of Newtones on my TC OM. I find the G string tends to be a little too boomy for my taste. I checked the intonation and it looks right. Should I go to a lighter or heavier G set to try and balance it out?

    Appreciate any help.

    Ed the Squid

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    Ed- try a lighter G set
    Karen Escovitz
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    Otter OM #1
    Brian Dean OM #32
    Old Wave Mandola #372
    Phoenix Neoclassical #256
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If you're gonna walk on thin ice, you might as well dance!

  10. #10

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    When you know the gauges you want, here's a good source of inexpensive strings. NFI Euphonon

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    Registered User otterly2k's Avatar
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    Arcane-- I just looked at that site, and it seems that the only individual strings they have available are guitar strings, which I assume are ball-end. Also, can only be bought a dozen at a time. Good prices, but there are some trade-offs...
    Karen Escovitz
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Otter OM #1
    Brian Dean OM #32
    Old Wave Mandola #372
    Phoenix Neoclassical #256
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If you're gonna walk on thin ice, you might as well dance!

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    I've had good luck with singles at Just Strings. I've been using ball ends made by d'Aquisto. Been pretty happy. I especially like the nickel wounds.

    Danny

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    Just Strings or First Quality Music both have large assortments of various strings - loop end and ball end. Prices are competitive and sometimes they have sales which are worth taking advantage of. Elderly seems to be spotty when it comes to getting a full balanced custom set - at least for me. Re nickel wounds, Danny I know why you're using them, they really feel like silk coated strings but the trade off on sound generation is considerable and a short longevity is annoying. My compromise was to got to either Elixer Nanoweb singles (for mandola's or Octaves) or for a few of my mandolins ... d'Addario EXP's Medium weight.

    All of these seem to come from the same general technology of a web matrix, chemical coating. To me, these are really remarkable strings which have a good fat sound and seem to last for years. The trade off - they are a bit pricey. I've even thought about getting a set or two of the light tension, then just adding a Lower C set from Elixer and using the high E as a spare set of back ups. Haven't quite done it yet but it is an appealing idea. Not much of a savings when you compare the prices but at least they are all in one box.
    Mandola fever is permanent.

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    I actually like the sound of the nickels (as well as the feel). Everyone in my group like the sound better than the bronze. Maybe its a bit sweeter? (Maybe its all in my head!) I used the elixirs once on my mando, and liked the way they played, but didn't like it when they shed their skin. Haven't tried again since. I know not everyone has that problem with them, but I found it distracting. Have they fixed that glitch?

    danny

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    I usually order my strings in singles from Just Strings. My experience has been that several times some of the strings in my order were not in stock and I had to wait for backordered strings. They tend to come through pretty quickly, but I've learned that it is a good idea to maintain my own "stock" and to order in advance of my absolutely needing them.
    Karen Escovitz
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Otter OM #1
    Brian Dean OM #32
    Old Wave Mandola #372
    Phoenix Neoclassical #256
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If you're gonna walk on thin ice, you might as well dance!

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by (otterly2k @ Feb. 12 2007, 11:59)
    ...it seems that the only individual strings they have available are guitar strings, which I assume are ball-end...
    Otter: Right, but my OMs take ball end strings. As for the dozen, two OMs can go through a dozen in 6 months. YMMV

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    one of mine does, one doesn't... so unless I want to spend a lot of time removing the ball ends (which I HATE to do), I have to work with one of the dealers of individual loop end strings. Good to know where all the different resources are tho.
    Karen Escovitz
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Otter OM #1
    Brian Dean OM #32
    Old Wave Mandola #372
    Phoenix Neoclassical #256
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If you're gonna walk on thin ice, you might as well dance!

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    Danny - I think you've had the normal experience with the old series of 'PolyWeb' strings. The more recent offering of 'NanoWeb' seems to be much more durable and don't give off the old warm and fuzzy look after a few weeks. I've had a set on one of my OM's for about 2 years and the sound generation is still viable. At this time the instrument is loud but not brassy at all. A big plus for me is the lower string courses on either a mandola or Octave don't shred my fingertips when I really start hammering on them - or just generally am playing for an hour or two.
    Mandola fever is permanent.

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    Registered User Mike Buesseler's Avatar
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    OK, I'm waaay out here on the prairie without another OM within at least 100 miles. I've messed around with string guages on my BDean OM--specifically going to octaves for the first year, or so. Well, I've come back to unison courses, using the same guage as the largest of my octave pairs. I'm not sure I love what I got. My guages are 52, 34, 24, and 14. These are PBs, btw. With nothing to compare to, I'm not sure whether to go up, down or sideways from here. In fact, this combination might be just fine...but, I just wish it were easier to experiment a little. Anyone care to offer suggestions based on what I'm using? Oh, I have a 21.5" scale length.

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    Quote Originally Posted by
    When you know the gauges you want, here's a good source of inexpensive strings. #NFI Euphonon #
    Ditto. # When you know the guages you want, and want either 80/20 or phosphor bronze and plain steel. #

    I buy almost all my strings from them (for tenor guitar, guitar, mando, mandola, and OM). #Any of their strings (guitar, banjo, mando) can be ordered as "individuals" guage, by the dozen.

    A dozen strings/guage covers 6 sets, a reasonable amount to buy at a time to balance S/H costs and keep a stock on hand, especially if you change often. #Euphonon string prices are not just a little lower, they're substantially lower than the other web sources mentioned. #Their inventory is streamlined so they won't have everything, true. #The only thing you do have do is break that little ball out .... you can do it! #
    Jeff Rohrbough
    "Listen louder, play softer"

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