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Thread: What do you use?

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    Registered User littledonnie's Avatar
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    During the changing of strings on my mandolin, I found the string winder I use on my guitars was too big at the key end. My solution was to take a string winder and cut the key end in half. I then sanded the two halves till, when pressed together the slot was just a bit bigger than the tuner keys. I used super glue to rejoin the two halfs. I glued a piece of thin leather in the slot. Now I have a mandolin sized string winder. Any other ideas?
    "Music is the wine that fills the cup of silence."

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    I found one many years ago that accommodated both guitar and mandolin, it has a plus sign shaped slot in the key head. One slot is longer and the other at the 90 degree is shorter and does not go as deep for mando tuners. The string winder is black plastic and beefier than standard ones. Don't know who makes or made it though.Can't believe I hav'nt lost it(knock on wood)after all these years.



    Shudup and play your mandolin!

  3. #3
    ************** Caleb's Avatar
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    I have found that a guitar winder will work, though it takes a bit to get used to the angle that it takes to clear the other tuning keys. I was going to get a mando string winder, but then I saw that they were a LOT more expensive than the cheapo guitar winders, so I'll just deal with the hassle for now. I may try to method that the orignal poster did. Sounds like a good plan.
    ...

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    Registered User MandoSquirrel's Avatar
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    Planet Waves has a winder/cutter that is a better fit than other winders, though a tad smaller would be better. I have read on line reviews,I think, that it's not as durable as would be preferred, though.
    Elrod
    Gibson A2 1920(?)
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    Victoria, B&J, New York(stolen 10/18/2011)
    Eastwood Airline Mandola

    guitars:
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    Vega 200 archtop, 1957?

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    I took a standard cheap guitar one, cut off the end to shorten the slot, cut a piece from a used flatpick, and glued it onto the winder. The shorter slot works better for mandolin tuning pegs (which are closer together than guitar pegs).
    EdSherry

  6. #6
    coprolite mandroid's Avatar
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    Cumberland acoustics makes nice wooden ones ,to fit most wee round tuner knobs.
    the tuner knobs on th Djangolin are bigger , figgers..
    writing about music
    is like dancing,
    about architecture

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    I have been using the "Tottle" method of attaching strings for more than 30 years. #This method does not require a winder. #I'm sure this method has been documented here and on the web.
    BRW #12
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    Kentucky (Korean) 675

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    Cumberland is the one who makes a mando specific winder, albeit it is pricey. #However, I know that The Mandolin Store is working on one of their own (I saw a prototype, hope it wasn't a secret Dennis!) made of plastic that works as well as the Cumberland, for a lot less dough. #I don't know if he has it in production yet though.

    Personally, I use the method from Frank Ford's frets.com which is the way to go to puts strings on any instrument, IMHO. #It doesn't require a winder whatsoever, is very time efficient and your final job is VERY clean looking, much more so than using a winder. #Not to mention it makes removing the strings easy too. But if you like the multi-turn look and the ease of doing with a winder, give Dennis a ring and see if he has it in production yet.
    Scott
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    1915 Larsons Brothers Flatback

  9. #9
    Registered User 8ch(pl)'s Avatar
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    I start from the tailpiece, keeping the string in the bridge and nut grooves and bring it up to the tuner post. Then I wrap it carefully around the post 3 times, (twice for wound strings) with no overlap of the strings on the post. Next the string is put through the hole and pulled up snug. Then the string is brought up to tension.

    There needs to be some tension by hand throughout the process. I only gain about a wrap or 2 in bringing the string up to pitch.

    The idea of sticking the string into the hole then winding it up to tension doesn't appeal to me. I am a purist when it comes to neatly wrapped strings. I normally do not lock the string in any way. I find that the wraps creep up the post under tension and clamp the end of the string to the top of the hole. I trim the ends close to the post.

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    A buddy made me one, perfect design and shape. Never use it.

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    Registered User John Flynn's Avatar
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    I really like the Dunlop Turbo Tune for mandolin. The outside of the part the goes on the tuning button is round, so it never impinges on the the adjacent buttons and it can be removed from the crank and used in an electric screwdriver. It has two sizes of slots, the smaller of which fits mando buttons snugly, and the whole thing is really well made. I wouldn't use anything else.

    http://www.stewmac.com/shop....er.html

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    I use the Frank Ford method with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand for the E and A strings and the left hand for the D and G strings.
    Keep it acoustic.

  13. #13

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    ..Thumb and index finger.

  14. #14
    Registered User tree's Avatar
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    A home-made string winder is a fun and easy project for amateur, Neanderthol woodworker-types like me. #Made mine just to fit the tuners on my mando. #Used some scrap walnut and brass I had hanging around the shed. #Looks like something my kids made to hang on the refridgerator, but it works great.
    Clark Beavans

  15. #15
    Got Buckstrips? Jerry Byers's Avatar
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    I have one of those wooden winder things made of zebra wood. I use it all the time to take strings off. When I put strings on, I don't use it on the A and E strings; I use it sometimes with the G and D strings - just sometimes. One thing that I have noticed, and luckily avoided, is that because Waverly tuners, and others, put the button very near the peghead, the winder can touch and scrap the edge of the peghead. If you use a winder, take a look at the side of the peghead, above the button, if you see two lines about an inch apart, your winder is getting too close.

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    "I use the Frank Ford method with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand for the E and A strings and the left hand for the D and G strings. "

    Funny thing ... I can always find 'em when I need 'em.

    Curt

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    Café habitué Paul Hostetter's Avatar
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    The one on the left started life as the one on the right. The depth is also cut down so it can do F-style pegs without hitting the headstock. This one used a piece of a flatpick, and has been in use for more than 25 years. I have actually generated dozens of these and given them away, littered my shop with them, and put them in all appropriate cases.



    This is another Scotty with a tired drywall bit embedded in it, for my power screwdriver. I have a similar smaller item I handmade for mandolin pegs and F-style headstocks out of stock salvaged from a skateboard wheel.

    .
    ph

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  18. #18
    Got Buckstrips? Jerry Byers's Avatar
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    Good suggestion on the sloped face. I'll have to file mine down like that.

    My winder had a piece of cork inside at the bottom. I cut some felt and lined the the bottom and the walls to prevent damaging MOP buttons. Has anybody else done this? I have noticed that either the Gotohs, Grovers, or Waverly's (not sure which one is responsible) have gouged the cork with the screw head. I don't think it's the Gotohs because the use a Phillips head screw. I'm thinking of digging out the cork and dropping a piece of leather in there.

  19. #19
    Registered User Lane Pryce's Avatar
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    I use a Maple Cumberland Acoustics peg winder. I have shortened it so it fits nicely in my case. Lp
    J.Lane Pryce

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    Registered User Douglas McMullin's Avatar
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    I barely have more than a single wrap on my pegs. I don't find a winder speeds up the process. I tossed the one I had.

  21. #21
    Café habitué Paul Hostetter's Avatar
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    So impulsive!

    .
    ph

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    Paul Hostetter, luthier
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    Registered User f5loar's Avatar
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    I've got a few made for the small F5 style ends but my favorite has to be my Dudenbostel hand carved highly select curly maple,tap tuned and triple dipped in hand rubbed cremona finish with spirit varnish cured for 3 months. Grant you it weren't cheap but would expect it to be?

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    Tom--I jumped on a couple of those when they were available, too.....they're wonderful.

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    I own the 23 Loar signed that Dudenbostel blueprinted for his. I think Lynn nailed it.
    Five

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    Quote Originally Posted by
    I have actually generated dozens of these and given them away,
    I use an unmodified Scotty's winder I've had for ~15 yrs. But I like your modified ones. If you are still tripping over extras, my mailing address is....
    Jeff Rohrbough
    "Listen louder, play softer"

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