The gauze I used in construction on the inside of my 'f' holes is very visible and in need of a "hair cut" in many places---I can see it easily from the outside of my mando. #How should I remedy this? #I'm thinking of creating an 'L' shaped file with '60' grit sandpaper that will fit in the 'f' hole and I can then maybe sand the 'fuzz' away. #Any other suggestions?
If you saturate (doesn't take a lot) the gauze with hide glue or whatever glue you used, it will become hard. You can then cut or file it much easier than if it's fuzzy gauze. It sounds like you already have the back installed though. If so, it would be very tedious work getting glue and/or a file in there without messing up something else. I might use a needle file VERY carefully if the guaze was glued hard. Remember that cracks are common around F-holes. Too much pressure could be dangerous.
A match? Obligatory warnings and disclaimers apply, however.
Mike
Grasp things by the smooth handle - Tom Jefferson
I CAREFULLY trimmed mine with an exacto knife. Be mindful of grain direction, etc (cut across the grain, not INTO it) This is how siminoff book recommends 'tuning' the air chamber by enlarging the F-holes too, if I remember correctly.
Practice on scrap wood, first, as always.
-b
I can't add anything to the above.
In the future, though, you may consider not using gauze.
I'm not that convinced it helps reinforce that area enough to warrant the extra fuss (or, in this case, fuzz).
http://www.stephaniereiser.com then click mandolins
A match was my #1 thought, but why not use the other edge of an exacto knife as a scraper? You could still splinter out if not careful of grain direction.
Good Pickin', Steve
I'll second what Amanda Lyn said. There is no good reason to use the stuff. The only place you may ever see a crack is in the lower "wing" portion of the f hole. When you finish cutting them just apply a thin strip of hide glue dipped piece of silk. It will never crack there, I promise.
Hello,
Hard to say what to do about your issue but I know from my experience next time I will use gauze as when I cut my F-holes I had some tear out which was almost unfixable and could have easily been a major loss of time and energy.I think the gauze would have made it alot more difficult to have this tearout.I would say take some light grit sandpaper and just lightly hit the inside edges of the F-holes.
I was assuming everyone uses a sharp knife to cut their f holes.Guess not.
Agree; sharpen your knife, gauze or not.
I think I'd first try gluing some sandpaper to a popsickle stick and hold it in there at maybe a ten or twenty degree angle and only PULL it up and out. In fact, start slowly pulling it up a slight bit before you actually even touch the wood. That will grab the stray fuzz and lay it against the edge.Don't push down. For the circles, use a small dowel with paper glued to it. The biggest trick would be use a pull stroke only.
Pulling up will cut the fuzz off. Pushing down will create more fuzz. Sliding it sideways won't do much of anything, comparatively speaking.
This is assuming the gauze is well glued down to the board right up to the edge of the soundhole. If it's not, this won't work nearly as well.
If you try it with a needle file, you would have to break the handle off and stick the file in backwards in order to cut it against the edge on the upwards pull stroke. It would also have to be a fairly coarse (and sharp) needle file to work well, but again, only on an upward pull stroke. A downward stroke will compound the problem.
Another plus will be that using only an upward stroke, you can put a finger against the edge of the soundhole to support it, and not worry about cracking it.
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
I'd saturate the fuzzy edge with thin hide glue. Easy to do without mess. Just take a regular cardboard-stick Q-tip and bend about a 1/2" L-shape at one end. Then dunk in glue, bring it up from the inside and wipe it on. Might want to lay a piece of paper down so you don't drip on the back.
Then proceed with the trimming as outlined above.
Cracks at f-holes? You betcha. We fix 'em all the time. Mandolins don't crack there by themselves, but they get leaned on often enough. . .
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