My new tailpiece

[bgmando]

Over the weekend, I replaced the original stamped metal tailpiece on my '84 Flatiron F-5 with a Bill James model.

I've been having tuning problems. Couldn't find anything wrong with the nut. So I changed out the tailpiece.

Seems to have helped if not fixed tuning problems. Although there's nothing visible to the eye wrong with the old one.

But I was also startled at a vast improvement in tonal qualities, especially on the treble end.

Must have been lots wrong with the old tailpiece, angle to bridge, maybe some flex, light of weight, etc.

I don't think changing tailpieces would do this for all instruments. I wasn't expecting this change.
But in the case of a good mando with a bad tailpiece, it made a huge difference.

[Flowerpot]

Ditto, I changed out the Price tailpiece (which is a very nice cast tailpiece, but a pain in the neck for changing strings) for a new Bill James TP on my Brentrup for the sake of ease of use. What I didn't expect was the (slight) increase in volume and depth... wow, that's a nifty side effect. I expected the James and the Price to sound the same.

[Bill Van Liere]

Flowerpot

Did that price tailpiece have hooks on the underside to attach the string loops? I have a Brentrup with such a tailpiece, string changes are difficult with it.

[rlw]

I have the same problem with the Eastman tail piece you literally have to cut the strings to take them out or
else you risk scratching the extremely soft finish on it.
The string loops seem to dig right into the hooks and you
have to use needle nose to push them off the hooks.
I just ordered a Monteleone that I'm hoping will improve things. I hope!

[Flowerpot]

Yep, it had the hooks on the underside, and to get the string loops around them takes the fine motor skills of a neurosurgeon. I had Hans send me a James TP with the correct engraving on it, and replaced it myself. It's pretty easy to do. I'm glad I did it, as the new one is so much easier to use, and is quite the quality piece.

[Bill Van Liere]

Too many years of gripping a mandolin neck for me to perform any surgery. Thanks All

Flowerpot: congrats on acquiring "The Rat", my second favorite Brentrup name next to "Chewy", my Model 21

[Flowerpot]

Thanks! The Rat is indeed quite unique and spoke to me from the moment I tried it. I'm thrilled to have it.

[bgmando]

I'm not all that handy and usually trust my instrument work to a luthier buddy. But he wasn't available, so I jumped in.
Age and decay on my old tailpiece and getting if off clean was the main challenge. It's amazing what 22 years of weather, wear and tear can do and how much of it can hide under the metal.

I don't want to give the impression though that the James is total ease.

The little rubber o-rings didn't want to stay in their groove. Maybe they will reshape to it and that will end.
Some of my string loops were a little tight to fit over the James' sturdy pin, and I had to work to get them on. Although others went on slick.

Overall though, so far so great.

[evanreilly]

I had Rolfe Gerhardt (Phoenix mandolins) swap an old Price cast tailpiece out for a new James one.
THe old one was a pain it the butt for string changing and since it had the wrapped wires exposed on the top of the tailpiece, it was always catching on clothing.
The new James is functionally better, and I do beleive the entire sound of the instrument has improved as well.

[Bill Van Liere]

Ok, so I hear some knowledgable members voting for the James tailpiece. I have never bothered learning the brandnames names of the tailpiece(s) on my mandolins. I just leave them there because I like things as the builder made it. But, I just purchased a BRW with a hinged tailpiece cover and rubber O ring string dampners. Seems like a really nice unit. Forgive my ignorance. Is this a James?

[Nathan Sanders]

Here's a discussion I started not too long ago, Post A Picture of Your Tailpiece
There is a picture of my Bill James tailpiece at the beginning of the thread. I love it!

[Bill Van Liere]

Yup, got it. Thanks F5Dude, that's the one gets my vote.

[sgarrity]

Does Bill James have a website? I'm having an F5 built and want one of his tailpieces.

Thanks,
Shaun

[Nathan Sanders]

Shaun you can contact Bill via this site: Inlay Inc.

[Bill James]

[QUOTE]But, I just purchased a BRW with a hinged tailpiece cover and rubber O ring string dampners. Seems like a really nice unit. Forgive my ignorance. Is this a James?

Sure is, it's a model that's custom built just for Ben. The cover shape is his design.

[Bill Van Liere]

From one Bill to another; Thanks Bill

[Stephen Perry]

I like the Brekke design tailpiece, even the Eastman one inspired by it. But I always cut the strings. Bang bang and one side is free of strings. They don't seem to stick on the posts for me.

Reloading is fast, too. I use a hemostat to bend a pair of new strings right by the loops, then feed them in from the bridge side. The bend catches the back ramp and guides them up. I put one to the inside, then flip the other over and attach it to the square peg thing. Then feed the other end through the tuner post. Zip, string installed.

Nice design.

[Michael Lewis]

I put a tiny bit of super glue on the O rings to hold them in place. It might not be needed bit it sure helps.

[Mark Walker]

Mando-Lynn (Bill) - I have the same challenge with my Silver Angel and the custom-design cast tailpiece on that. The hooks are on the underside, and it's a challenge to re-string. I use a popsicle stick to orientate the string loops onto the hook and then have to keep some tension on the string until I get it going on the peg.

Don't know that I'd ever swap this one out - it was the last of only a few dozen cast, so adds to the uniqueness of the custom mandolin. With a set of Steve's String Silencers knocking down any sympathy tones, it's a decent enough tailpiece. And I can polish it up easily by placing a sheet of paper under it and buffing it with fine steel wool!

[david blair]

I think anything heavier than those thin stamped tailpieces helps. I used some binding tape to attach a quarter inch pickup jack to mine, and now have sustain! Like, a noticeable improvement. Also at the same time wove a piece of leather through the strings and pulled it down towards tailpiece before sliding the cover on. I would be tempted to carve one out of an antique coin, like a '21 walking liberty dollar I found one day. Solid silver alloy? One fella posted about using a solid brass pipe cap-( a big one, I guess) for his tailpiece.
Does anyone have thoughts about the spacing from bridge to tailpiece? In the violin world they tune this part of the instrument at one sixth of the scale length, providing a complimentary octave tone to the next higher string. I noticed Randy Wood has made the treble strings closer, like a Jazz guitar.

[8ch(pl)]

I have posted a few times about the merits of changing to the Weber Tailpiece on my Mid Missouri M4. I sort of eased off when someone said that my instrument's improvement in sound was sort of a blanket statement. Probably true. I have not regretted the change however.

I think part of the enthusiasm when I made the change may have been due to new strings. What I haven't admitted was that I have always noticed clear ringing notes after I have changed the strings. I normally use Darco lights, I find they have a good sound and aren't too hard to find in this area. I change them every 3 months and they still sound OK at the end of the cycle. I playwithout Amp in a group with electric guitar and sometimes piano in church. I can be heard over these instruments.

I am happy with the change. It looks better, changes strings better and the instrument sounds good with it. I have never liked the tin tailpieces with their death lock covers. I just hope this doesn't read like a blanket statement.

This is a great site and there is a lot of good information coming from it.