Any thoughts on how to remove a magic marker signature from the top of a Gibson F5G?
Any thoughts on how to remove a magic marker signature from the top of a Gibson F5G?
If it's not shellac, then alcohool will do it. On shellac only wipe ONCE, wait for the shellac to harden, al least ½ hour, then repeat but the shellac can become dull
Kentucky KM-805..........2 Hora M1086 Portuguese II(1 in car)
Hora M1088 Mandola.....
Richmond RMA-110..... .Noname Bearclaw
Pochette Franz Janisch...5 Pocket............Alfredo Privitera pocket
Puglisi Pocket 1908........Puglisi 1912.......Puglisi 1917
3 Mandolinetto ..............C.Garozzo
1 Mandriola...................Cannelo G. Mandriola...Böhm Waldzither 1921
Johs Møller 1945............Luigi Embergher Studio 1933
Marma Seashell back......Luigi Embergher 5bis 1909
Gibson doesn’t use shellac do they? I’ve seen some YouTube’s of WD40 and others using dry erase marker. Any thoughts?
No idea how but there was no evidence of the signature on this one - http://www.mandolinarchive.com/gibson/serial/23871 - when I bought it; although the chap selling it couldn’t understand how I knew it had been there in the first place!
I wouldn't go with WD-40 or any oil substance close to finish. These solvent based markers can eat deeply into the finish and the only way to get rid of them is abrasive removal. I once had a Flatiron A-5 with some signatures on back that could not be removed completely even with 600 grit paper. The finish was optically quite thick but still going to coarser paper calls for sanding through if there is unexpected thinner spot on the plate so I didn't want to go any further and just polished out the back back to gloss.
If the F-5G has gloss lacquer you may be able to rub out the surface with fine abrasives and polishing compounds to see how deep it is but I would let someone with experience in finishing do it. Some of the modern Gibsons have finish mile deep in places but you don't know if it is consistently as deep everywhere especially on curved surfaces.
Adrian
The F5G came in two finishes, Lacquer and Varnish on a very few special models. The label will say F5GV.
Try a damp cloth and some tooth paste.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
No “V”
Toothpaste is a very mild abrasive. Try a small spot with a damp soft cloth where the signature is.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
I spoke to Gibson customer service they said a little guitar polish should take it right off. This does not sound right to me at all.
I use that trick, Mike, on my car finish and to buff out little scratches on my guitars. I was always told Crest regular, not the fancy-smancy newer versions with whitening, sensitivity, etc. But disclaimer: I have never used it on my varnished mandolins so I cannot personally recommend it.
A little hair of the dog. On the white dry erase boards. We often color over permanent marker writing with a fresh permanent marker. it will loosen up the the original. Then you can remove it with a polish or cleaner. Usually most of it can be wiped off.
Adam
After working years in a vintage guitar shop, I would say there is no foolproof method. It "depends" on the marker used and what finish is on the instrument. I have used many techniques, some with perfect success and sometimes not so much. I will say it is a shame that somebody's good intention of getting their instrument signed by one of their heroes can become a liability on the used market. YMMV.
I have used addamr's technique often with good luck. I have also used Megiuiar's cleaner wax and it works well and will not harm nitro or poly finishes. Basically, try different stuff from milder to stronger and see what happens. Know when to stop rather than overdo it. It is easy to dull a finish permanently with the wrong solvent. Never use acetone on finishes.
The problem is that a Sharpie will soak in pretty deep and sometimes the removal only works partially. Sometimes it is good to ask yourself, "how much do I hate the signature?" Or, could I possibly BECOME a fan of the person who signed it? I had a vintage Telecaster the previous owner had painted "Little Leroy" on the front in fairly big letters -- sloppily, I might add. I knew it wouldn't come off without damage, so I decided to become "Little Leroy!"
Good luck! A fairly common problem, unfortunately.
As evidenced in the replies, results will vary. If you’re uncomfortable about damaging the finish, start with the least abrasive measures offered above.
I’ve had good results on lacquer finishes using denatured alcohol together with an abrasive like scotchbright or even 0000 steel wool, without removing the finish. Sometimes it goes so deep that finish repair or refinish is necessary, so if you’re not a finisher, beware.
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Minimum abrasion - “T-cut” rather than toothpaste.
I spoke to a trusted luthier today. He says while he doesn't work on mando's he seems to recall that this model had a fairly thick finish. It may be that the marker did not fully penetrate. His first recommendation is to try to buff the marker out.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
Never used this on an instrument, but hair spray has removed Sharpie, Marks-a-lot and other markers off my furniture, laminate Formica and some fabrics.
As always, test a small inconspicuous area first.
Do not use strong solvents such as acetone or alcohol on lacquer. They will dissolve it, or at the very least soften it.
Acetone can cut all the way through to the wood in a minute or less.
The only solvent that I would try is naphtha. It will not react with lacquer.
I wouldn't use hairspray or anything like that either. I don't know what's in it.
If naphtha won't do it, you will have to carefully try a polishing compound. As Jeff stated above, start with the lightest grade, such as Meguiar's #7 "show car glaze." You can move up to the #9 "swirl remover" if necessary. If that doesn't do it, you can try a "fine" compound such as Meguiar's #2. If that doesn't work, take it to a pro and cross your fingers. "Medium" compounds should be only be used by professionals, and they must use it cautiously-- use too much or work too long, and it too can cut all the way through to the wood.
When in doubt, seek a highly skilled professional for a job such as this.
Hairspray often contains alcohols or some amount of MEK or acetone that may damage the lacquer. Furniture finished with poly or laminates/ Formica is pretty much bulletproof against most solvents on this earth.
If it was my instrument I'd probably try to gently scrape tiny bit (pinhead size) off with perfectly sharp curved scalpel blade just to see how deep it goes. I'e got some experience with finishing but I wouldn't recomment it to anyone with lmited experience. At worst I would get tiny scratch that can be drop filled and buffed back. But there may be places where the marker soaked deeper so I would try preferrably at spot with darker streak. But I wouldn't do this on customers instrument as this whole job outcome is unpredictable.
Adrian
Thanks for all the replies. At least there is consensus that this is a thorny problem with no assured resolution.
Not mentioned so far, but also not necessarily useful is that marker manufacturers, like, say Sharpie, have removal solvents listed, as well as the ink MSDS ingredients. However, even when a finish is pretty well immune to solvents and is fairly thick, as on a car or urethaned furniture, there often is no way to keep the human eye from seeing the remains of a mark. It’s a built-in neuro feature.
So complete stripping and refinishing of a panel, or component is recommended, which should be enough to make a luthier’s customer drop the subject.
The mandolin in question is in the classifieds. I believe you would be paying more because of the signatures.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
Not me. I really never considered the possibility that an instrument is more valuable With graffiti but I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Maybe if it was bill Monroe but even then maybe not. It doesn’t look like the seller is on the same page so I’m moving on. Thanks for all your help.
It didn't even occur to me that the seller might think the signatures increase the value.
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