Yet Another CF Mandolin?

[milli857]

Question for KLOS and others. When I take a carbon fiber mandolin to my local guitar shop for the inevitable refret, what do I tell them? Would they be able to handle it or would they say "send it to NASA" ("to Space-X", these days)? If there is any irregularity in the fretboard (high spots, chips, nail gauges), is this easy to fix? I assume the answer is "no" to all of the above if fretboard is integral to the neck and frets are "glued in". What is the actual situation and the actual owner experience? (as I understand, there is an unplayable peter mix carbon fiber mandolin with neck trouble kicking around right now). (As I understand, on a mandolin, bridge/saddle, nut, frets/fretboard, tail piece and tuning machines are considered as "consumables").

I think the fretboard for klos guitars is richlite, which is a pretty standard material and most luthiers would be able to work on the frets with no problems.

[Lucas]

Question for KLOS and others. When I take a carbon fiber mandolin to my local guitar shop for the inevitable refret, what do I tell them? Would they be able to handle it or would they say "send it to NASA" ("to Space-X", these days)? If there is any irregularity in the fretboard (high spots, chips, nail gauges), is this easy to fix? I assume the answer is "no" to all of the above if fretboard is integral to the neck and frets are "glued in". What is the actual situation and the actual owner experience? (as I understand, there is an unplayable peter mix carbon fiber mandolin with neck trouble kicking around right now). (As I understand, on a mandolin, bridge/saddle, nut, frets/fretboard, tail piece and tuning machines are considered as "consumables").

Mr. Klos stated that the frets will be stainless steel instead of the standard nickel silver material. Stainless steel is more durable and wear resistant, so you probably won't have to worry about refretting, unless you play a lot.

[peliot]

I think if you survey instruments out there in the market, 1 1/8” nut width is the most common, so I would suggest sticking with that if you want to appeal to the most customers.

As for your question on frets, 20 is plenty for me.

Really looking forward to seeing these when they come out!

Hi guys, this is Ian, the head luthier at KLOS Guitars. Thanks for all your comments and support. I was planing on making the mandolin a traditional A style, with a 12" radius fretboard, and a nut width of 1 3/16" (1.1875" (30.16 mm)). I was planing on making a traditional arched top and back, with F holes. It will have stainless steel frets (2x1 mm), and a cast tail piece.

A 1.1875" nut width is considered a hair on the wider side because that is what everyone has been asking for, but we will have the option to have custom string spacing at the nut, so you guys can choose if you want the strings narrower or wider, which is actually more important than the actual nut width. So basically we will have standard string spacing, and also slightly wider string spacing. We will have our Plek machine next week, so we will be able to do very accurate nut string spacing, leveling and setup.

I had a couple questions for you guys, do you want 20 frets or 22 frets? Sometimes the higher frets get in the way when I pic, so personally I prefer 20 frets.

I was going to set the heel back about 1.5" more than typical, this would make it much easier to play at higher frets.

I was going to use D'addario strings, do you guys have a preference of which model?

Do you guys have a preference on neck profile and neck thickness? I was going to go with something standard like on modern Webers, or do you guys prefer a soft V?

I was also thinking about shrinking the headstock about 10 or 20% smaller than typical headstocks, to help prevent nose dive, what do you think about that? This would basically bring the tuners down about 1/2", and make the total length of the headstock about 1" shorter.

I am not an expert mandolin player myself, so I'm making most of my design decisions based on what my mandolin friends tell me, and all the people reaching out to us about wanting a mandolin.

Cheers,
Ian

[Ian Klos]

Thank you all for all your input, and opinions, we’ll make this thing a little beauty, you guys will love!

In response to all your comments:
-I wasn’t planing on making fingerboard extensions, so it won’t have that.
-Sounds like sticking to the 22 frets is what I will continue with.
-Round modern neck profile on the back of the neck.
-Strap button at the heel will be optional. Though you should know that the fretboard will be floating starting at the 13-14 fret, so it will be easy to have the strap wrap around the body, under the fretboard.
-Frets that are 2x1 mm size means that it’s 2 mm wide, and 1 mm tall, this is pretty standard for good quality mandolins, but it’s definitely on the larger side of the spectrum.
-We will use stainless steel frets, which will probably last more than a lifetime, but if you do need to re-fret, the process is exactly the same as with a wood mandolin. We don’t glue our frets in or anything like that, just press them in. One thing is important tho, when you use a fret press, you need to be careful not to press more than necessary, because a fret press can be very powerful, and do some damage to the carbon neck because it is hollow. Anyone who has experience with fret replacements won’t have any problems. Our factory can also do fret replacements for you down the line if you send your instrument in.
-When I mentioned slightly shrinking the headstock by about 10-20%, I was planing on leaving the tuner spacing the same, but from the comments, it sounds like I should just keep the headstock standard size.
-Most people want a 12” radius fretboard these days, so that’s what we will go with, but I suppose we can do a custom flat fretboard if there is enough interest. We can also do a compound radius, from about 10-14” (10” at the 1st fret, and 14” at the 22nd fret). Or a 14” fretboard across the board… If someone is interested in this, just reach out to our customer service team when making your order.
-A nut width of 1 1/8, and 1 3/16, are the most common, and they are only different by 1/16, which is 1/32 on each side of the nut, I was planing on going right in the middle, but in the end it’s the string spacing that matters, so we will offer standard string spacing at the nut, and also wide string spacing, and we can also always do any custom string spacing at the nut. You can always swap out a nut for something different down the line.
-In regard to pickups, we can definitely do the K&K, but I am also looking at some other options that can have a volume and tone control for playing on stage.

Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions or questions. We will be launching the KLOS Mandolin on a kickstarter campaign, and we will have a pretty sweet discount for y’all early supporters, so I’ll keep you posted.

Cheers,
Ian Klosowiak

[Explorer]

I'm very happy about that news about the heel button and availability of a flat radius. Thank you!

[Deblues]

Sounds great Ian! I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Jim Garber]

Thanks, Ian! I like your thinking and looks forward to the finished product. The last thing I need is yet another mandolin but the CF possibilities are very enticing and if you keep it within the proposed price range even more so. Keep us apprised of further developments and when the Kickstarter campaign launches.

[Piraterose]

I am new to the forum, amd a fairly new Mandolin player. I transitioned from the guitar mostly for the portability and fell in love. I am also an avid sailor and am preparing to spend a few years out cruising, and so have been searching for a carbon fibre mandolin.
I have filled out the interest form for Klos a few times and never gotten anything back. I am probably doing something wrong...
I am super excited and will definitely be an early buyer.
I love the concept Klos is pursuing (traditional A style with arched top and back, and F holes. I am fine with a 12" radius fretboard, and a nut width of 1 3/16" (1.1875" (30.16 mm)). I like the stainless steel frets for durability and corrosion resistance.

I think I would be happier with 20 frets but not a major preference. Standard neck profile is good. Not knowledgeable enough on strings to comment. I agree that there is no real reason to shrink the headstock.

Thanks and can't wait till Klos starts production!