Full Contact Bridge on Eastman 815V

[bhenry]

I need to replace the bridge on my Eastman 815V. I'm thinking of putting on a full contact bridge. Has anyone out there done that on their 815V? Did you notice a difference? Are you happy with the results?

[Rob Roy]

Fitting a full contact bridge is a lot of extra tedious sanding. I confess I've only done one full contact bridge, but I have fitted several Cumberland standard two footed bridges and they sound outstanding. There's only about 1" of space between the two feet on a standard bridge, I doubt that having solid wood in that space would have a noticeable impact on tone or volume.

I'm guessing your 815V is going to be a big sounding mando when you get a good bridge properly fitted to it.

[Explorer]

I've done a few experiments on different instruments, comparing full-contact bridges versus 2- and 3-foot bridges on the same instrument.

I found that separating the bottom into two feet made the instrument louder and more responsive, which surprised me. I was positive that the single foot would transmit more vibration, and do so more efficiently, than a two-footed bridge. But nope! Something about letting the middle of the bridge flex up and down (or in whatever directions) independently from the feet makes it transmit vibration to the soundboard more effectively. Who would have thought?

I later ran across some writings regarding the Red Henry bridge which also found a 2-foot bridge sounded better. I don't remember on what particular pages the foot issue was raised, but they are definitely worth the read if you're interested in bridge design, and getting the most from your mandolin.

https://www.murphymethod.com/index.c...t&contentId=87

https://www.petercoombe.com/publications/jaamim4.htm

I'm moving towards ordering a Brekke bridge to totally dial in bridge height on five flat-top instruments from the same manufacturer, each having variations due to being from a range of years. The adjustability of the Brekke bridge means I can adjust it instead of sanding a bit too far on a one-piece bridge while making it.

Anyway, whatever path you choose, good luck!

[pops1]

Hmmmm, I made my 2 foot bridge into a full contact and improved my mandolin lots. Interesting that we have opposite effects on the same experiment.

[HoGo]

I've replaced or modified to full contact many bridges and never found any significant change in tone. I use full contact to prevent top deformation over time that will try to conform to the gap in the middle and bulge out and together with that the inner edges of feet will create impressions in top.
I guess whenever folks notice such change in tone their replacement bridge was significantly different from original in weigth, wood species and perhaps fit to top which is crucial, especially with full contact. You need to fit the full contact bridge with tiny amount of spring and optimally chek/refit after a year or so. You cannot tell the change in tone is due to number of feet when you exchange the whole thing and do new fit and setup...