How hard/wise is it to replace a fingerboard?

[jerryripped]

This is likely a terribly dumb question, so please go easy on this here newbie!

I am loving my Doug Clark mandolin (https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...lark-mandolins). I only wish it had a bound fingerboard that matched the rest of the binding... I am a sucker for binding!

(1) Is it feasible and safe to replace the fingerboard with a bound fingerboard from (wherever)?

(2) Roughly how much do you think it would cost (including all the steps, parts, etc)?

(3) Any suggestions on who would be well qualified for this?

I realize likely this is an expensive idea ($1,000+?), but if it turns this mandolin into a lifetime keeper (which hopefully it will be even with the current fingerboard), well, it would be worth it compared to far more expensive options!

Thanks!

[poul hansen]

Why not get a binding on the existing fretboard??

[MikeEdgerton]

Anything can be done as long as you spend enough money and find the right person to do it, but... Keep in mind that there is no guaranty that it's going to end up looking the way you imagine it.

[rcc56]

Do-able?? Yes, by the right person.
Safe? There is always an element of risk in a repair such as this, but 95% of the time, yes, if done by the right person.
Cost? Depends on the repair person, how fancy you want the bindings to be, whether you want a new board to be radiused, and/or whether or not the existing fingerboard can be re-used.
$1000 +/- is a realistic ballpark estimate. Plus shipping costs.
Who? A repairman who has experience with the job, or a builder who has considerable repair experience [not all builders do].

Keep in mind Mike's statement: " . . . there is no guarantee it's going to look the way you imagine it."

I have replaced a few fingerboards.

[Tavy]

It's a yes, but.

It depends what glue the old fingerboard was fixed on with, what the finish is (there *will* be damage when the old one comes off, so you want something that's easy to repair).

But.... if you love it that much, I would keep it just as it is and play the heck out of it... they're for playing not for looking at... just saying

[tjmangum]

You might run it past Bruce Weber at Montana Lutherie. I'm sure he would be glad to give some feedback and a quote.

[Jim Garber]

If possible I would contact the builder and see if he were willing to do that work.

[Dave Cohen]

If the mandolin is relatively new and the neck and fretboard are straight, it doesn't make much sense to replace the fretboard. That is something that qualifies as "surgery", if not "major surgery. As previously pointed out in this thread, the operation would be costly, would produce a minor amount of finish damage, and would not be without risk of other damage. If you are really set on having a bound fretboard on the mandolin, consider having the existing fretboard bound, as briefly pointed out in post #2. That would involve removing the frets, routing a ledge for binding, applying the binding, then finally doing a refret. All of that would still be less costly and involve less risk of damage than would removing the fretboard. I would recommend leaving a small amount (ca 0.030" - 0.050") of the original fretboard visible at the bottom of the ledge. For places where a small router cannot reach, the ledge can be cut with a (hand) purfling cutter. Although, a fretboard of ebony or a similarly hard tropical wood will make for some pretty tough digging, requiring a bit of patience. In any case, I would not advise attempting this operation yourself unless you have the tooling and experience to do so.

[Rick Lindstrom]

Keep the present mando as-is and buy another with binding. Good excuse to get another. LOL

In any case, if the current mando is a really good one and you get deep into the music, it'll wind up playing you eventually and you won't care about binding.

[Walt]

Jerry, out of curiosity, what year/number is yours? I think I own a close sibling to it. Mine has block inlays, but is otherwise same specs (yours has nicer maple and mine has been through several mods).
I do like the way Clark handles his scooped fretboard extension. If it were me, I’d want to preserve/recreate that in the process of binding. Also, if it’s like mine, the binding is ivoroid with some sort of brown-ish toner over the top. I have no clue what finish he’s using but it’s pretty light. I’d guess the finish would be on the easier end of the “repairable” spectrum.

[HoGo]

Finishes can be very unpredictable. Nitro is easy to touch up but if there is toner in it then matching it is tough job for professional. removal of fingerborad or routing for binding can pull chips out of finish and you won't know until you start. You can score the finish before routing but even that alone can lead to some chipping in some super hard lacquers.

[jerryripped]

Thanks to everybody for the helpful replies! I think I am gonna keep my Doug Clark in its current state... "perfect is the enemy of the good" as they say! I love it (enough), so the risk of loving it less is more than the reward of loving it even more! I have ruined a handful of guitars with tweaks, so hopefully I can apply the lessons I have learned from GAS to MAS!

Walt,
My Doug Clark is #83 from May 5 2023. It feels/looks far older than that, which is one of the things I love about it (i.e. not stressing about wearing belts and buttons and such). If you'd like to share info/pictures of yours, I'd love to see/hear more. Feel free to post on my other thread (https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...lark-mandolins) or private message me!

[JeffD]

I have found that work like fingerboard replacement, neck resets, etc., are their own hobby. Some have the ability and the patience and its their "thing". More power to them, as I may need to hire such talents in the future. For me, anything beyond tuning up, string replacement, and light cleaning will cut into my pickin' time.

[Dave Cohen]

Finishes can be very unpredictable. Nitro is easy to touch up but if there is toner in it then matching it is tough job for professional. removal of fingerborad or routing for binding can pull chips out of finish and you won't know until you start. You can score the finish before routing but even that alone can lead to some chipping in some super hard lacquers.

The finish chipping problem is why I suggested leaving 0.030"to 0.050" at the bottom of the original fretboard, keeping the routed ledge above that. In any case, the OP's decision to leave the mandolin as is solves the problem in the best possible way, IMO.

[Walt]

Walt,
My Doug Clark is #83 from May 5 2023. It feels/looks far older than that, which is one of the things I love about it (i.e. not stressing about wearing belts and buttons and such). If you'd like to share info/pictures of yours, I'd love to see/hear more. Feel free to post on my other thread (https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...lark-mandolins) or private message me!

Nice! Mine was built back in 2019. Here’s probably more info than you want on mine, lol: https://youtu.be/SbkOEdjRj50?si=uQ9_X5lrOpuipMHM
I’ve had it for sale on and off in the classifieds, so I put together that extended video a couple of months ago. I played one of Clark’s A-5s backstage at a bluegrass festival a few years ago and loved it. The A-5 had that super thumpy sound I like.