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Thread: Kentucky KM250 endpin - pressed or glued in?

  1. #1
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    Default Kentucky KM250 endpin - pressed or glued in?

    I just received an Allen tailpiece to go on my newish Kentucky KM250. The endpin doesn't want to come out with a simple hand pull. Does anyone know if it's glued in? If it's just a tight friction fit, what's the best way to remove it without damage?

    Thanks, Max

  2. #2

    Default Re: Kentucky KM250 endpin - pressed or glued in?

    I would hope it's not glued. I take a scrap of rubber inner tube and wrap the endpin before grabbing it with pliers that have curved jaws. I try a twisting motion to break the friction fit. If you damage it getting it out, new ones aren't expensive.

    Be prepared for your Allen tailpiece's holes not matching up perfectly with the old one. Also, since the endpin through the Allen will be inserted a couple of mm less due to the casting thickness, you're going to need to fill-n-drill or at least shim the endpin to get a good fit (in my experience). A tapered reamer is a necessity for a good fit.

  3. The following members say thank you to Rob Roy for this post:

    maxr 

  4. #3

    Default Re: Kentucky KM250 endpin - pressed or glued in?

    Re. Alignment. I know the Allen is expensive, but ‘fill and drill’ isn’t what I would call simple DIY. A wood taper only works if pretty accurate, so pehaps consider filing the tailpiece to match the existing hole, plus clearance for the shoulder so the pin goes to original depth, if that’s a consideration.No idea if the original is even tapered or unglued. Don’t worry if it shatters in the pliers during removal. many ways to put in a new one. The taper might be 5 degrees (2.5) as some are measured. (Half vs. full angle).
    Someone here, noting the bad effect of an endpin coming out, suggested that it can be failsafed with a cord between the strap and tailpiece.

  5. The following members say thank you to Richard500 for this post:

    maxr 

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