Cleaning crud on a 1930s mandolin

[Sheila Lagrand]

I've used warm water and a gently-applied washcloth to no avail. To remove decades of user buildup, from what I've read here, it appears I should next try mild soap and water, and failing that, naptha.

Is that correct, or is there another game plan I should adopt?

[MrMoe]

I have had good results with Simple Green un dilulted, a small amount on rag. Lately I have added it to my list of things to try before moving on to solvents.

[Sheila Lagrand]

I have had good results with Simple Green un dilulted, a small amount on rag. Lately I have added it to my list of things to try before moving on to solvents.

Thanks! I will give it a try.

[rcc56]

This is the first I've heard of Simple Green. Test it on a small inconspicuous spot first. You can remove a tuner or tuner strip, or the tailpiece to provide a good test spot. Make sure it doesn't soften the finish, and wipe off any excess. If you use it, please let us know how it turns out.

I've used water with a little dish detergent added. If you try it, you will have to use a really soft rag and move to a fresh spot with nearly every stroke to avoid scratching, and dry off the cleaned surface as soon as possible. It's a bit trickier than it sounds, because the finish can scratch easily, and old finishes don't like water very much at all. Naphtha is friendlier, but it doesn't remove some kinds of gunk.

Soooo . . . I'm curious about the Simple Green.

[MrMoe]

rcc56 points out cautions that I take for granted. A few drops on a soft rag. start in an inconspicious spot. I have found Simple Green to be gentle on finishes. There are combinations of crud and finish where the crud itself has disolved or softened the finnish. A bad combo is years of hand lotion on oil varnish.

[poul hansen]

Scrape the thick stuff with a creditcard then use Ajax windows cleaner. I use it on instruments, steering wheel, keyboards, doorhandles etc. Wipe it over, wait 30 seconds, go over it again.

[sunburst]

...from what I've read here, it appears I should next try mild soap and water, and failing that, naptha.

Is that correct...?

IMO that is correct.
Water is a polar solvent and will dissolve most things that get on old finishes. Detergent (or mild soap) makes water effectively dissolve some non-polar substances, naphtha is a mild non-polar solvent and should dissolve most non-poplar substances that can be found on old finishes; stuff like grease and oil.

BTW, the MSDS for Simple Green shows that it is basically detergent in water but has some alcohol as well (plus fragrances, dyes and other marketing stuff). There is probably so little alcohol that moderate use will not damage shellac based finishes, but it might be a possibility. I'd prefer to keep it simple and just add a little detergent to water and use that.

(Tip: MSDS info for nearly anything can be found online, so we can get an idea of what things are. If we have a strong chemistry background we can get a really good idea of what things are.)

[Sheila Lagrand]

I removed the tuners last night, so I do have a good testing spot available to me. I will report back. Thanks, guys!

[Sheila Lagrand]

Undiluted Simple Green did a respectable job cleaning gunk from Louise, the old Maxwell I bought recently. I don't believe I will need to resort to naptha.

By the way, she is in rougher shape than she was represented to me to be when I bought her. I'm glad I didn't spend a whole lot of money (just a little lot). Despite her flaws, she does sound nice, and my main interest was having some "old wood" to play. I have decided that given her low cost and poor condition, I will learn some basic repair/replacement skills using her as my crash test dummy. Today I replaced her tuners and I have a new tailpiece on order. I'm considering a new bridge, but I haven't made up my mind. Here's a photo. What do all y'all think--new bridge or no?

[MrMoe]

I like the way John Hamlett cuts to the data. I have suspected that Simple Green contains oil of wintergreen.

[Sue Rieter]

I'm considering a new bridge, but I haven't made up my mind. Here's a photo. What do all y'all think--new bridge or no?

I've got a very similar bridge on my Strad-O-Lin. The luthier carved some compensation into the white saddle, and it works well. I like the old look of it. The action has changed around a little bit with the seasons, but nothing that has been an issue.

[Peter Coronado]

It looks like this old Maxwell was used to play some train songs! The partially visible note lists Wabash Cannonball, Streamline Cannonball, and what I’m guessing is the Wreck of the Old 97. It’s very nice that you are getting a few more miles out of it!

[Sheila Lagrand]

It looks like this old Maxwell was used to play some train songs! The partially visible note lists Wabash Cannonball, Streamline Cannonball, and what I’m guessing is the Wreck of the Old 97. It’s very nice that you are getting a few more miles out of it!

Indeed, train songs. The rest of that note reads:
Wreck of '97 (as you surmised)
Little Red Caboose
Orange Blossom Special

[and then a medley of non-train songs]

Life's Railway to Heaven

[Nevin]

How well is the bridge fitted? Is the height good? Does it need better compensation? If so, a new bridge may be called for. If not, not.

[Sheila Lagrand]

How well is the bridge fitted? Is the height good? Does it need better compensation? If so, a new bridge may be called for. If not, not.

You mean to base the decision on practical matters? What a great idea! Thanks!