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Thread: Neck angle question

  1. #1

    Default Neck angle question

    New builder working on my #2 and #3 mandolin...

    What is the acceptable string height at the bridge? I recently glued my neck to body and the joint opened up about 1/16" which means my string height will have to be higher to clear the end of my fingerboard and not buzz.

    I'm using the v joint method from the Siminoff book and have not yet doweled the joint. I used Titebond glue rather than hide glue. Trying to decide whether it's necessary (or even possible) to try and release the joint, or just move on and live with little bit higher bridge height.

    Any tips/suggestions?

  2. #2
    Kelley Mandolins Skip Kelley's Avatar
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    Default Re: Neck angle question

    Just my opinion, but now is the best time to get the neck angle corrected. I would heat the neck joint and remove it. Scrape the old glue off the neck and out of the headblock, and then get the angle like you want and make sure it's tight.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Neck angle question

    Didn't the OP ask this question over on the OLF?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Neck angle question

    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Kelley View Post
    Just my opinion, but now is the best time to get the neck angle corrected. I would heat the neck joint and remove it. Scrape the old glue off the neck and out of the headblock, and then get the angle like you want and make sure it's tight.
    How difficult is it to get Titebond wood glue to soften? I assume you are talking about using steam??

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Neck angle question

    Titebond will break down with heat but getting that heat into the joint is the hard part. so the steam needle seems like the best option. I made one with a Goodwill espresso machine, some fuel line and basketball needles. You would want to drill a couple or three holes per side at the same angle as the joint and steam away. That would get the heat as well as steam in there.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Neck angle question

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hilburn View Post
    Titebond will break down with heat but getting that heat into the joint is the hard part. so the steam needle seems like the best option. I made one with a Goodwill espresso machine, some fuel line and basketball needles. You would want to drill a couple or three holes per side at the same angle as the joint and steam away. That would get the heat as well as steam in there.
    Thanks Skip and Jim for your advice,
    I did not have a steam supply, so I started with a sheetrock knife and and an aim-a-flame. I kept working the hot blade into the joint from all available angles, and with enough time, I started to see results. I eventually got the joint loose with very little tearout.

    So glad to have your advice that there is no better time to address this than current state!

    I'm quickly finding out that this instrument building is way more about the recovery than the initial build steps!

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