Funky yellowed and cracked finish

[MediumMando5722]

I inherited a Ray Sparks F5 from my dad, who bought it new around 1996. The finish cracked and yellowed within a few years of him buying it. He mentioned a long time ago that Ray had “tried some new way of finishing,” which obviously didn’t work very well. I have no idea what the finish is, but it kind of chips off like a thick poly.

I’m going to try steel wooling it on the back, to see if it’s a clear that can be removed and redone without messing up the color. If it is a poly as I suspect, it think the instrument’s tone will benefit from its removal as well.

[NotMelloCello]

Steel wool is the devil! Please don't use it. Besides, I doubt it would take that clear coat off. Please talk to a finish expert about it before proceeding. Good luck.

[MediumMando5722]

I hear that a lot, but the only issues I’ve ever had with it involve sticking to electric guitar pickups.

As far as the expert, I don’t really have anybody local, which is why I was gonna try it in an inconspicuous spot first. It already looks like hell, and has plenty of wear so it’s unlikely I’m gonna make it worse

[slimt]

No sealer as a binder? Or the clear was over reduced?

[Bob Gnann]

I'm not a finish or refinishing expert, but I do a woodworking as a hobby. Refinishing a piece of furniture can be a real challenge. A nice mandolin should be approached likewise. Do you plan on stripping the entire instrument? I'd be hesitant to use any chemical solvent to remove the finish because that may compromise the glue that was used. That would be almost impossible to correct afterward. The conservative approach IMHO would be to start with very fine 800 grit sandpaper. Go slow and see what happens.
And don't use steel wool on wood!
Also consider you'll have to apply a finish afterwards. A lot to think about.

[poul hansen]

At the top of the head, you can see how thick the finish is. You will take years trying to remove it with steelwool and months with 800 grade.

An experiment would be to scrape it off, seeing that it doesn't stick very well to the finish under it, maybe it will crack clean off. I have done that to boats and guitars.

[NotMelloCello]

I'm not a finish or refinishing expert

That would be almost impossible to correct afterward.

How would you know, seeing as you're not an expert?

With over 40 years at the bench, I can tell you stripping a finish does not affect the glue.
As far as impossible to correct, a skilled repair guy with experience can fix almost anything (and I've had a couple "impossible" jobs that turned out very well).

[MediumMando5722]

I do not want to strip the entire thing, just remove the clear. I’ve sanded plenty of electric guitars, but that was always to take it down to bare wood. One time, I did a Fender Strat with poly so thick I used a pick to chip it off in quarter-sized chunks.

I’ll post some better pics tonight, and maybe do a little experimental sanding on the back.

Ultimately, I’ll leave it as is if it’s going to damage the color. The instrument sounds great, and strangely, the top doesn’t have the same issues.

[MediumMando5722]

[MediumMando5722]

Update: I'm 100% sure it's poly. Chipped away a bunch of it with a stiff, thin pick.

I'm going to carefully finish chipping the poly from the front of the headstock, clean it up with some light sandpaper, and figure out something to refinish it with.

[NotMelloCello]

If you want to be easy, I suggest TruOil. You can literally apply it with your finger or a lint free rag. Dries fast and hard, but it takes awhile to build up.

[MediumMando5722]

That’s probably what I’ll use. On my electric guitar necks, I use tung oil with Howard’s Feed and wax on top. I’ve heard TruOil is better, so I suppose it’s time to switch.

[MediumMando5722]

Also, thanks for all the info.

It’s funny, because my dad liked pristine instruments, while I prefer them a little banged up, but here I am, restoring his.

[Rob Roy]

I faced a similar predicament on an old mando that I had to pull the back on to install a Virizi for a client. The 40 year old nitro was so cracked and crazed I opted to reshoot the sunburst darker and refinish.

[slimt]

Poly will do that. Especially if over reduced. You want it thinner but shiny But it takes all the adhesion away as well. Basically never cures and will not bond. To me it looks like someone over extended a step.