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Thread: Eastman MD305 Bridge

  1. #1

    Default Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Reading posts and looking.
    Mandolin sounds ok. But I notice more of a lean on the treble side post that the bass side.
    I’ve tried loosening strings and pulling it back, but it just pulls forward again. Cost of a Cumberland Acoustic Bridge doesn’t seem much.
    So if I order a bridge, I’m just sure not what to order.
    And after watching videos I’m ok with trying some sanding work.
    Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Registered User Pappyrich's Avatar
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Assuming you might be under warranty, have you tried to contact Eastman about a new bridge? I am told they are very accommodating. The bridge on my MD-305 is very nice, and fits well. I did some VERY minor sanding when I first got it about a year ago.
    Richard

    Eastman 305
    Gibson A1 (1919)
    Martin D16 guitar
    Great Divide Guitar (Two-Old-Hippies)
    OME 11" banjo (1973)
    Pisgah 12" banjo

  3. #3
    Registered User Pappyrich's Avatar
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Just had another thought. Have you checked to see if the post is loose in the bridge? It needs to be screwed down tight, or it might lean as you have described.
    Richard

    Eastman 305
    Gibson A1 (1919)
    Martin D16 guitar
    Great Divide Guitar (Two-Old-Hippies)
    OME 11" banjo (1973)
    Pisgah 12" banjo

  4. #4
    Registered User J Mangio's Avatar
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Burp...
    2021 The Loar LM700 VS

  5. #5

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    I've put several Cumberland bridges on mandolins and they they sound great. You need to figure the cost/time of fitting the bridge to the top because this makes a big difference with how the trebles sound. I would take a close look at how the current bridge is fitted first and do a touch up fitting with some 320 grit paper. Scribble pencils lines all across the bottoms of the feet and sand until all the pencil scribbles are gone. If this process doesn't improve the tone then you can spring for a Cumberland. Just be prepared for the time or money involved for the fitting.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Thanks all. Except the, well you know.
    Got a Cumberland Bridge coming. I’m trying to learn to work on my instruments. Got a couple of luthiers close by to help if I need it.
    Appreciate it... except for... well, you know.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Bridge arrived. Looking forward to giving it a try. Watched a lot of videos. Different grits of sandpaper. String height. Intonation. So, it’s a go.
    Let you know how it goes.
    Even, well... you know.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    I just looked at my Eastman 305 bridge - I've had it maybe 2 months now, and last week I had to raise the bridge saddle as the action had settled down to maybe 0.9 mm or less on the G at the 12th fret. Also, the arched gap between the bridge feet is now about 0.5mm high on the fingerboard side and 1mm on the tailpiece side - either the bridge is leaning towards the fingerboard or the arch wasn't cut square. The treble screw post only is leaning (adjustment nut is at an angle to the bridge base) just like Bill D describes above. Looks like I might be next in line for a new bridge, so let me know how you get on with that, Bill D.

  9. #9
    Registered User J Mangio's Avatar
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Save your money, on occasion you have to burp your bridge; just routine maintenance.
    2021 The Loar LM700 VS

  10. #10

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    I’m kind of new at this. But I’m pretty good at searching You Tube videos for help. But when I see “Burp” I go, “Ok, I’m slow but friendly.”
    So J Mangio. I apologize. I thought you were being flippant. So I searched and found what burping a bridge means. I had done this but it just moved toward the nut again. Pappyrich...I already ordered the new bridge but I will look at the old one for “educating” myself. After watching videos I’m game to try it. Cost.. New bridge with slots cut and shipping. $71.00. Maxr, I’ll let you know.

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  12. #11

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Folks would be less timid about repositioning a bridge -the burp- if they had dealt with violins or cellos where the danger of an overturn or a break is hugely more due to the aspect ratio. The mando bridge is wide and low in comparison. However, the screw adjustable version has an inescapable defect in that the clearance hole - the one without threads - has to be oversized to allow left-right tilt. The hardware is one size too flimsy, etc.
    It seems silly that bridge-foot mandolin-top fit is such a critical deal when the actual sound transmission is through two dinky loose screws, but that’s been ok for a very long time.
    Not to say that an aftermarket product couldn’t be somewhat better than the OEM item in several respects.

  13. #12
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard500 View Post
    ...The mando bridge is wide and low in comparison. However, the screw adjustable version has an inescapable defect in that the clearance hole - the one without threads - has to be oversized to allow left-right tilt. The hardware is one size too flimsy, etc.
    It seems silly that bridge-foot mandolin-top fit is such a critical deal when the actual sound transmission is through two dinky loose screws, but that’s been ok for a very long time.
    Thanks Richard. I'm used to resetting the angle of my violin and viola bridges so that the bass (G string) side facing the tailpiece is at a right angle with the top. How does mandolin work - should a mandolin bridge bisect the angle the strings make either side of it, or what? It looks like my bridge is now vertical to the top, which means the strings have a greater break angle towards the tailpiece than towards the fingerboard. There's an almost invisible gap along the bottom of the bridge feet on the tailpiece side and none on the fingerboard side. That appears to suggest that if the bridge was fitted right to start, it now needs tilting slightly towards the fingerboard until either both sides are the same, or there's no gap on either side - yes?

    Also - I get the reason the saddle tilts is due to the oversize holes in the bridge base. However, it seems like Bill D and my bridge saddles only tilt vs the bridge bass on the treble side - the bass side is OK. Does that imply the saddles twist under string tension?

  14. #13

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Maxr - I’m no luthier, and also have very little experience, and only one mandolin with an adjustable, (and $71 plus a luthier fee doesn’t align with my general miserlyness), but...
    Fitting the feet, whether or not acoustically vital, certainly prevents denting or even causing a split in the top, so I’d try to get maximum contact. The break angle, referenced from, say a line parallel to the instrument top, has to be bigger on the tail side in all layouts, but the strings need to have best contact right at the front side, just like at the nut, and relief behind angling down. So a too-wide saddle top, 90 degrees to vertical, is bad. Too sharp an edge probably causes excessive tuning friction.
    Now your bridge may be (and probably wasn’t) fitted precisely at the factory, but what it’s sitting on has been changing shape a tiny bit, so a touchup may be good. Why there’s a difference left and right could be wear or imprecision in manufacture. It is, after all, wood, plus aforesaid dinky hardware, contributing next to nothing in the overall production cost. Also, the intonation compensation ramps (which I don’t have) obviously provide different offsets over the centerlline, hence different twists with respect to some line connecting the posts. I wouldn’t agonize over this very much.

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  16. #14
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Unlike a violin bridge most like a mandolin bridge to tilt slightly toward the tailpiece rather than being straight up. It helps when tuning and the drag of 8 strings pulling the bridge forward. I am not talking a lot, but a slight tilt back is preferred.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

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  18. #15

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    One of the great things about Cumberland bridges (besides using top notch material with the correct grain orientation) is that his machining is very accurate, particularly the holes in the saddle. Much less prone to saddle lean. The screws are also depth adjustable with an allen wrench so you can set them so that the screws come up to just shy of the top of the saddle. Keeping everything aligned ensures that you get a solid connection between the bottom of the saddle and the adjusting wheels for maximum vibration transfer, just having the bridge feet perfectly mated to the top of the instrument.

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  20. #16

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    So, an update. Been sanding and scraping with a razor blade. Just the slightest gap at both ends sliding a piece of paper under it. Im taking a break. Waiting for some of your input. I like the pencil idea. One of the things I notice is how when sanding, I’m seeing more of the filings imprinted on the sandpaper. Small marks getting wider.

  21. #17

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    I can be an arduous process, I've read of players spending 4 hours seating a bridge! I use a oscillating spindle sander to get close to a scribed line and then use a rather unconventional approach: I put stickyback 220 grit paper on the mandolin top where the feet make contact. After scribbling pencil lead on the bottoms of the feet, I put the bridge in position and pin one foot down with light finger pressure while I sweep the other end back and forth in an arc (maybe 3/4") pushing down moderately, then reverse, pinning the other foot down. The trick is to keep the bridge perfectly perpendicular to the top and not rock it. It's a balance of how much down pressure you can put on the foot to speed the cutting without wavering. Check progress by looking at your pencil scribblings on the bottoms of the feet. Swap out fresh sandpaper as soon as it stops cutting quickly (save your fingers!) When there's no pencil lead left show you're done. switch to 320 grit paper to make the feet smoother.

  22. #18
    Registered User Sue Rieter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Ha ha, four hours? When I did this to lower the action on my Kentucky last year, I worked on it off and on for at least a week. Yah, scraping and sanding, scraping and sanding with my home-made jig. Because I never did this before, and I didn't want to mess it up. The word "arduous" comes to mind. Went through alot of x-acto blades, too. It came out good, though, and I felt a great sense of accomplishment.

  23. #19
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Roy View Post
    ... I put the bridge in position and pin one foot down with light finger pressure while I sweep the other end back and forth in an arc (maybe 3/4") pushing down moderately, then reverse, pinning the other foot down...
    Obviously this method works for you, Rob. However, it raises a couple of questions. First, would a side to side section of a mandolin top under the bridge show a uniform arc? If so, then presumably sliding the bridge at right angles to the instrument should get a curve that fits the top precisely. If it isn't, I guess that's not going to happen. Also, if you sweep one end of the bridge in an arc, does that not take a little more material off the end of the bridge foot than off the bit of the foot nearest the middle - or does it not do that enough to be noticeable?

  24. #20

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Yes, understandably the sweeping arc dresses the ends of the bridge feet faster, but I compensate by finger pressure near the inside of the post. It's all in the technique and a balancing act for sure. I've done more than 6 bridges this way so I've perfected a system that works for me. Starting with the OS sander saves a ton of time, I can mate a bridge in 90 minutes now. Occasionally I'll get down to 1 corner that's 1 or 2 thou shy of seated and I call that good enough (on my own personal instruments). We're talking not even getting a sheet of paper an 1/8" under that corner- no way you'll hear a difference in tone.

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  26. #21

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Well, if you can’t laugh at yourself....
    So I’m close enough to to string it up and just see what it sounds like. I put the bridges next to one another for a rough height check. Wait, What?.
    Tho old bridge has a hump. Yup radius bridge. Of course I didn’t check before I ordered it. It’s an Eastman MD305. A beginner instrument. I bought from a friend. Who’d a thunk it would have a radius bridge? So, I’ve sent an email. See about getting the right one even swapping tops. Haven’t heard yet. But, a lesson learned.

  27. #22
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Not to worry the radius won't be that much and you can radius your flat saddle to match your old one. If the problem was the foot you can use the old saddle. If you want to get fancy you can make a radius gauge. You will be able to go to the website for Eastman and look up the radius of the mandolin and make a gauge for that radius so you can use it to check your saddle.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  28. #23
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    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    12" radius according to Eastman.

  29. #24

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    If you do wind up modifying the bridge you bought, you could accurately relate the height and curve to your fretboard in situ by resting a straightedge on the board and marking the intersection with the saddle, at each string location, under full tension. Adjustments set halfway, say, and then marking above that line your intended 12th fret action height times 2. Then take it off and sand to that second curve, cut notches., intonation ramps as needed.

  30. #25

    Default Re: Eastman MD305 Bridge

    Update on my story. Great service from Steve at Cumberland Acoustic. I told him of my goof. No problem. So I sent the old saddle back. We swapped for a radius saddle with slots cut. So It worked out great. Difference in saddles, he cut the slots and shipping. And great conversations. So it’s the story of a small shop. Great people that call you back and just make you feel like, well, things happen, so we’ll take care of you.

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