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Thread: Setting up a new Asian-made four string

  1. #1
    Registered User JonDoug's Avatar
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    Default Setting up a new Asian-made four string

    After years of thinking about it, I bought an inexpensive Emando: the Eastwood Mandostang. I have no previous electric instrument experience. The idea is to pack it on my "snowbird" trip south as my only instrument and get some months of working on playing (mainly blues?) on it and see where it leads.

    Out of the box, it seems solid, nice fretwork, but it played like a Mac truck drives. I ran it down to a local music store, and the bemused employee brought down the bridge saddles, making it much more playable. But it still feels too high near the nut (that Bb on the A!) and buzzes somewhere around the 10th fret. I suspect the nut needs work.

    There are great instrument techs in my town, and I'm sure I could get expert help--but they wouldn't get to it before I left, and I'd also feel a little foolish handing those guys this inexpensive instrument. So, I'm trying to figure out what to do on my own. And, the "just play it as it is until I have a better feel for the instrument" approach is a possibility.

    I am hoping that some of you could give your opinion about any of these questions:

    1) If I look for a store to set it up, am I looking for an electric guitar tech or a more folky luthier who knows mandolins?

    2) I do have experience using Mechum's book to set up a Rogue-style mando that went pretty well. Does his feeler gauge and diamond file from Harbor Freight approach work for electrics?

    3) My previous set up was for a no truss rod instrument. What role does getting proper tension on the truss rod play in the set up for these?

    4) I'm rocking the factory original strings. Before setup, should those be replaced?

    Thank you for any suggestions you can offer!

  2. #2
    Registered User Tom Wright's Avatar
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    Default Re: Setting up a new Asian-made four string

    The basic principles apply. Go to emando.com for string sets and info.

    I would ensure the nut is low enough -- with such a short distance to the next fret the deflection angle is steep, risking sharp intonation. Clearance above the first fret, which I check by eye by watching it dip as I fret, should be only a tiny bit higher than from fret 1 to fret 2. A strobe tuner will be useful, because even after dressing the nut, and adjusting the bridge for intonation at higher frets (bridge has no effect at the first fret) the first few frets may play sharp. If so, remove the nut and file or sand away a bit of fingerboard to shorten the distance to the first fret by a few thousandths. I had to remove about 10 thousandths, or .010, so get some of my mandolins playing in tune. I understand Taylor shortens this distance for their guitars. A non-mathematical shortening allows the nut height to be less crucial, and for the player to be free to finger as firmly as wanted.

    But if you get your nut slots right and the strobe shows accurate pitch from fret 1 you're all set.

    I set my truss rod to yield a flat fingerboard, as does Weber. I have not found convincing arguments for a bowed fingerboard, and I hate the way they play, choking the high notes. If your "relief" is zero, flat, the higher frets have good clearance and rich tone. I don't agree with using the truss to adjust string height. Set it flat and find a comfortable height at the bridge.

    In your case, I will guess there is some bow, which is why the string buzzes at higher frets. The goal, for me, is low nut and higher bridge. There is no need for low clearance in the higher frets, because it takes less effort to deflect the string downward than at the low frets.

    The E string is likely to be weak. Fixes include adding a tiny magnet or other piece of magnet-friendly metal like mild steel to bring the E pole closer. Tilting the pickup may be enough, or just use a heavy E string. I like a fat tone so my pickups are tilted, and I also have slightly different pole heights. Regular nickel-wound are what I use on my electric, but you might like stainless. They have a good twang at short scale. I used them when playing a single-course Ryder. On doubled courses I use nickel.
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  4. #3
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    Default Re: Setting up a new Asian-made four string

    Just be sure, after lowering at bridge and/or nut, that the strings don't get too close to the pickups, or even touch them, when fretting up the neck. The pickups' magnetism can have an effect on the strings' vibration - ya don't want that!

    To answer your embedded question: I'd go for a luthier w/ mandolin experience over one that "specializes" in electric guitars - too many of those folks mostly screw on replacement parts while having little thought of fine-tuning the core structure that's already there, OR of the far-tighter tolerances that a mandolin-length scale requires compared to guitar.
    - Ed

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  6. #4

    Default Re: Setting up a new Asian-made four string

    Definitely replace the strings. If its buzzing around the 10th fret then lowering the nut is going to make it worse. The nut and bridge work like a seesaw if the board isn't flat. You'll need to raise the action at one end or another to get it above that 10th fret. By doing that, you're never going to be in tune up and down the neck. The solution is a flat fretboard. It could be that one fret is high and just needs tapped down or leveled or you may need to level the whole board. I'd take it to someone for a full setup. Someone that knows how to level a fretboard and not just make adjustments. Any less than that is going to be a constant battle. I'd also wait and do it once you get to your final destination. You might as well set it up in the environment that its going to live in for awhile.

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  8. #5

    Default Re: Setting up a new Asian-made four string

    I would also check to see if the pickup/control cavities are shielded (copper foil) and grounded otherwise in agreement with Andrew's suggestions above.

    Len B.
    Clearwater, FL

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