Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 51 to 65 of 65

Thread: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

  1. #51
    Adrian Minarovic
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banska Bystrica, Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Istvan View Post
    OK, that's what I did and how I came up with the 50/50 mix, so I guess I'll keep using that ratio.
    Thanks for your input. That really helped.
    Epifanes has been recommended by several builders. I myself am planning to give it a try when I run out of my current varnish (no more in production).
    SOme folks add the Epifanes accelerator up to 50% which is mix of resins and other stuff that will make the varnish harder and more scratch resistant and will dry faster, essentially turning it into short-oil varnish.
    I agree adding tung oil is strange as Epifanes is based on tung.
    For spraying folks use acetone as thinner for oil varnishes. It will flesh off fast leaving just varnish to dry. Less risk of runs.
    I don't know how different is my current varnish from Epifanes but I brush it straight from can (consistency of maple syrup) with relatively stiff brush (I found brushes from cheap IKEA set of child brshes work great and last) and 3-5 coats is all I need before I sand for French polish.
    Adrian

  2. #52

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Thanks for the tip about the accelerator. That sounds exactly what I'm looking for to give me faster drying time and harder surface.
    Do you varnish directly onto stained wood or do you seal first with sealer? I find that putting down the varnish directly over the stain I get stain bleed into the varnish.

  3. #53
    Registered User amowry's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Posts
    2,076

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Charles E. View Post
    I was reminded of this article in GAL a few years ago......

    http://www.shellacfinishes.com/wp-co...y_RoyalLac.pdf

    Maybe Max and/or Andrew will chime in to see if they still use it.
    I used it on a few batches of instruments, but had severe problems with checking after a few years and had to refinish them all. So, Im done being a finish tester.

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to amowry For This Useful Post:


  5. #54
    Adrian Minarovic
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banska Bystrica, Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Ouch, that hurts to hear!
    Adrian

  6. #55
    Adrian Minarovic
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banska Bystrica, Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Istvan View Post
    Thanks for the tip about the accelerator. That sounds exactly what I'm looking for to give me faster drying time and harder surface.
    Do you varnish directly onto stained wood or do you seal first with sealer? I find that putting down the varnish directly over the stain I get stain bleed into the varnish.
    I'm not using Epifanes now, but I'm on my last can of varnish (Polish brand Sniezka - not in production any more) so I 'll have to get something new and Epifanes would be my first choice given the reviews (although it is hard to get locally - not too many Yacht shops in this inland country).
    I airbrush one or two misty coats of shellac to seal the color and wood, scrape bindings and spray again to cover bindings with same layer of shellac (for adhesion). Then brush the oil varnish. The most important thing in brushing oil varnish is to lay it on thin so it won't run. You can thin the varnish with mineral spirits or other solvents, but that will require brushing it in even thinner layer. I don't sand between layers if I'm applying new layer within 12 hours or so - the surface is still slightly sticky feeling so the next layer holds well. I don't care about witness lines later as I'm FPing the surface. I don't remove any dust particles between layers unless they are visible to naked eye. Most often they are invisible microscopic particles and just the reflections of the nibs in shiny varnish makes them stand out like sore thumb. I only sand after last coat had enough time to cure for final FP.
    Adrian

  7. #56

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    How many coats does it take and is that Sniezka a long varnish?

    Istvan

  8. #57
    Registered User bbcee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Spain
    Posts
    372

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    RE: post #45: "In fact, I'd like to find a good short or medium oil varnish, preferably with phenolic resin (like the old rockhard)"

    I brushed Rockhard, thinned to maple syrup consistency, on an electric I built in 2001. It went on great, but it was so yellow!

    It really did make a nice finish - and yes, it was rock hard

  9. #58
    Adrian Minarovic
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banska Bystrica, Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Istvan View Post
    How many coats does it take and is that Sniezka a long varnish?

    Istvan
    The SNiezka varnish is "phtalic varnish" I guess it is most likely short-oil. I don't think I ever used more than 5 coats of that (depending on how thick the coats went on, mostly 3-4 when the sealed surface was perfect), I use some additional brush strokes in difficult areas near neck heel or near fingerboard support.
    Here is some old web presence of the product: https://www.ceneo.pl/8297358
    Now I found they probably started production of the varnish again but under different brand...
    https://www.vidaron.sk/produkty/oleje-a-laky/vonkaj-lak
    Adrian

  10. #59
    I really look like that soliver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,487

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    I used epifanes (thinned with lacquer thinner and sprayed with LVLP) on my recently finished first build. I don't have any point of comparison but I am very pleased with how it turned out. On John H's recommendation, I topped the epifanes with Truoil then buffed with Novus 3 then Novus 2. I had a couple of "boogers" here and there, but they worked out in the end.

    The only other Spar Varnish experience I have Is brushing on "Man-o-war" varnish on a canoe I made 20+ yrs ago. ... A very different process.
    aka: Spencer
    Silverangel Econo A #429
    Jacobson Nautilus Oval Hole Prototype
    Soliver #001 Flattop Pancake style

    Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolin Armrests
    Check them out here

    "You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
    to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it. -anonymous

  11. #60

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Just curious. I see where several builders top off the Epifanes with true-oil. What is the advantage of doing this? Does it make a easier surface to buff?
    Do you let the Epifanes fully cure and sand before applying the True-Oil?

  12. #61
    Registered User Mandoborg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    336

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    I've sprayed Epifanes pretty much exclusively the last few years on instruments as well as many other projects. Buffed both the straight varnish as well as top coating with tru-oil as well. Both work really well, but one thing that hasn't been discussed too much here is that it turns quite yellow. It takes a couple + years, but I've noticed my ' Blonde' projects turn quite yellow after a while. Works great for repairing vintage bindings etc....but it might be a surprise how yellow your instrument becomes as time goes on. Just a thought to keep in mind...

    Stay Healthy, Positive, and Safe

    Jim

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUGTTuoRPs

  13. #62
    I really look like that soliver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,487

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Istvan View Post
    Just curious. I see where several builders top off the Epifanes with true-oil. What is the advantage of doing this? Does it make a easier surface to buff?
    Do you let the Epifanes fully cure and sand before applying the True-Oil?
    Per John Hamlett, (If I remember correctly) the varnish can end up very thin on the corners and the Tru-oil can help with that. When I sprayed the epiphanies, I would let it dry 24 hrs then sand with 220 grit... I had a bad time with dust infection, but it sanded out well.
    aka: Spencer
    Silverangel Econo A #429
    Jacobson Nautilus Oval Hole Prototype
    Soliver #001 Flattop Pancake style

    Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolin Armrests
    Check them out here

    "You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
    to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it. -anonymous

  14. #63
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    14,785

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Quote Originally Posted by soliver View Post
    Per John Hamlett, (If I remember correctly) the varnish can end up very thin on the corners and the Tru-oil can help with that. When I sprayed the epiphanies, I would let it dry 24 hrs then sand with 220 grit... I had a bad time with dust infection, but it sanded out well.
    I don't have a problem with corners, I don't think I said that.
    Mostly the TO is just to speed things up by covering witness lines. The varnish itself will buff out and look fine if we let it cure enough, but if we don't want to wait we can have visible witness lines. Using TO over the varnish lets us proceed faster without witness lines. It also gives a nice "glow" that many of us like.

  15. #64
    I really look like that soliver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,487

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Apologies John for the misquote.... I must've remembered that wrong.
    aka: Spencer
    Silverangel Econo A #429
    Jacobson Nautilus Oval Hole Prototype
    Soliver #001 Flattop Pancake style

    Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolin Armrests
    Check them out here

    "You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
    to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it. -anonymous

  16. #65
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    136

    Default Re: Waterlox Marine High Gloss

    Thanks so much for this thread. I was assuming I would use nitro for my next finishes since I am familiar with it, but this thread has caused me to reconsider my finishing plans. I really appreciate the amount of knowledge that is shared so freely on this forum.
    Thanks a lot
    Bob Schmidt

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •