Gibson A50 reftret -any advice ?

[Davey]

My lovely 1935 A50 is still on it's original tiny frets & the first 7 are just about finished.

So, do I have a partial refret with the closest gauge wire I can get, or have a full refret in a better gauge modern wire ?

Also, the bridge top has developed a twist but still works well enough, do I leave it alone ?

Cheers David (UK)

[rcc56]

I did a partial re-fret on a similar mandolin a couple of years ago. Wire that is close enough in size to the original without being distracting is available. If I remember correctly, I used Stew-mac #764 on that one. It was not an exact match, but it worked well enough for all but the pickiest person.

However, I believe the mandolin would have played much better with wire of modern size, and suggested that to the customer. But they elected to go with the partial re-fret to save money.

A middle ground solution is to replace the first 12 or 15 with modern wire-- this is an option as long as you don't play in the high register and you don't mind the look of mixing two fret wires that are noticeably different in size.

As far as the bridge top, "If it's broke, don't fix it;" but it may not hurt to order a spare saddle [bridge top] to have on hand in case the old one gives way.

[pops1]

Computer going goofy sorry for the double post.

[pops1]

I have also used the same #764 fret wire on old Gibson mandolins. It works well for a partial refret. I like the smaller wire even tho I have mandolins with larger wire. I would order a bridge top as rcc56 says too.

[Davey]

Okay,

I think I'll go with a refret on the first 12 for playability, and leave the rest as they are so as not to disturb the old Lady more than necessary. Thanks !

[rcc56]

Good choice. In such a case, I recommend that you request that the repairman leave the new frets at full height rather than grinding them down to the level of the existing frets. The instrument will play better that way. He will have to shim and re-cut the nut, or replace it; so factor that into your budget. If the nut is plastic, I would go ahead and have it replaced.

[Davey]

Good advice, thanks. It has the original bone nut so I'll get him to refit it. I should have thought if this eight weeks ago, all his work dried up but it's busy again now.

[Andy Miller]

I think I'll go with a refret on the first 12 for playability, and leave the rest as they are so as not to disturb the old Lady more than necessary.

If you refret the first 12, the "originality" ship will have sailed, especially if you use different wire for the first 12 - that's going to look weird. Partial refrets often come with one compromise or another. I think it makes more sense to refret the whole thing, give your luthier the opportunity to resurface the entire fingerboard, eliminate any issues, and ensure a truly optimal setup.

[rcc56]

If you want perfect looks, you can re-fret the whole thing.
If you would rather do only a partial re-fret, it won't look all that odd.
If you don't like the looks, you can replace the upper frets later.

I wouldn't lose any sleep over compromising the originality of an A-50 by attending to necessary fret work. If well done, it will have little or no effect on the value of the instrument.

I re-fretted over 30 old instruments for a well known professional. Often, he wanted to leave the old frets in place in the upper positions. I have not heard of any complaints when a few of those instruments were sold later.

[pops1]

I have a '22 Gibson with the first 5 frets replaced. the #764 fret wire is noticeably larger, but only if you are looking for it. If you look causally you won't notice them.

[Tom Haywood]

I'm sure you know by now that if you ask for advice on the Cafe, you'll get plenty and it will be all over the place. My 2 cents is: if you can afford a full re-fret, do it. I understand a partial re-fret IF you are using the same frets, the fret-board is level, and money is an issue. Otherwise, I agree with Andy V. Don't hamstring your luthier. Allow him the opportunity to get the best setup possible on that mandolin.

[pops1]

I only did the first 5, but it is nice, plays well, with low action. The new frets were leveled into the old ones so playability is great. A proper partial will not hamper how the mandolin plays if done right. Since the old frets weren't leveled, just dents, and the new frets leveled to the old ones there is no change in the feel when playing thru between the two. I am older and like a very low action and I still have it even with the partial. As I said previously only the visual, and only if you are looking for it.

[rcc56]

I can give two good reasons for not re-fretting an early A-50 past the 15th fret.

1] The fingerboard is not supported from underneath beyond the 15th fret, and the tops on these mandolins can be quite delicate. You don't want to damage a top driving 5 frets that aren't going to be played much, if at all.

2] The glue joints on these instruments can be quite brittle, and you don't want to knock a tone bar loose.

I know from experience that gluing loose tone bars on an A-50 is not much fun.

[rcc56]

The computer double posted. Pls delete.

[Tom Haywood]

I meant to say that most all the advice is coming from repairers and builders, and it is good advice based on experience. What matters most in making a decision is the instrument itself and the options it makes available. That can best be determined by an experienced person looking at it in person. Someone with experience can see and recommend what it needs to make it it's best. That's what we want, isn't it? And that might or might not be a full re-fret.

[Davey]

Well, my Luthier looked down the fretboard and said that the first 12 had been replaced before and he'd do exactly that again.

I passed on rcc56's advice about avoiding the neck joint and not loosening the braces which i think he was glad to hear, as working on that unsupported part can't be much fun. It will be ready in a week, so we'll see how it plays then. It's had low frets all the time I've owned it.

It's an exceptionally nice looking mandolin though. Shame they put treacly varnish over a nice maple back. The tuners are a bit poor but they are Waverleys, so I've given them a service and they're tolerable.

I have two great 30's Gibson Guitars, '33 and '37, both L00 shape though the older one is an L1. GIbson really did make some good instruments around then.

Thanks for the help folks.

[Davey]

Here she is. Lovely job by Matt Ryan, Manchester UK. Replaced the first seven and dressed the rest to match.