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Thread: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

  1. #1

    Default Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    Gentleman.....Can I use amber dye or a mixture to dye celluloid binding and then shoot nitro over it? Or will it bleed? Looking for the aged look. And do you guys just lacquer over the binding and leave it or scrape it after if not tinting? Thanks JR

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    Default Re: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    I'm not sure of your question. After spraying the first couple coats of seaer/lacquer, the binding has to be scraped where it meets the wood, if the wood has been dyed, like a sunburst or anything else. It's going to bleed a little at that seam. If you're going to tint the binding, I'd suggest mixing the dye in acetone at a dilute mixture and applying it with a Q-Tip or something like that. If the wood has been dyed, and you're careful, any little that gets onto the wood, assuming your tint is diluted (!), I don't think that would show. Otherwise you can chase that line back and forth until you wish you'd done something else.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Ludewig View Post
    I'm not sure of your question. After spraying the first couple coats of seaer/lacquer, the binding has to be scraped where it meets the wood, if the wood has been dyed, like a sunburst or anything else. It's going to bleed a little at that seam. If you're going to tint the binding, I'd suggest mixing the dye in acetone at a dilute mixture and applying it with a Q-Tip or something like that. If the wood has been dyed, and you're careful, any little that gets onto the wood, assuming your tint is diluted (!), I don't think that would show. Otherwise you can chase that line back and forth until you wish you'd done something else.
    Thanks Dale, I was wanting to rub diluted transtint dye on the binding before the nitro. I mixed about the right color and tested on a piece of binding. This is my first build, how many times will I have to scrape that line? And one more question. This is probably way out in left field. I have done many gunstocks using tru-oil. Will it dry and cure over nitro lacquer? Thanks again man!

  4. #4
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    Other than very small touch-ups, I cannot get smooth, natural-looking "aging" of binding by brushing, rubbing with a Q-tip, or any simple method. Only an airbrush works for me.
    I keep an airbrush bottle containing a mixture that I use (the bottle is labeled "time"). The mixture is mostly amber dye with a little brown and a touch of red. I add a little bit of shellac to help the mixture cure in place rather than just dry as a thin layer of dye. I can spray of brush lacquer over "aged" bindings without disturbing the dried dye mixture.

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  6. #5

    Default Re: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    Quote Originally Posted by sunburst View Post
    Other than very small touch-ups, I cannot get smooth, natural-looking "aging" of binding by brushing, rubbing with a Q-tip, or any simple method. Only an airbrush works for me.
    I keep an airbrush bottle containing a mixture that I use (the bottle is labeled "time"). The mixture is mostly amber dye with a little brown and a touch of red. I add a little bit of shellac to help the mixture cure in place rather than just dry as a thin layer of dye. I can spray of brush lacquer over "aged" bindings without disturbing the dried dye mixture.

    Hey John, thanks for the reply. Let me explain and maybe you can shed some light. I was planning on putting a tru-oil finish on this build. It had so many mistakes on it I decided to do a Gibson distressed copy. I used dye and tinted nitro as well to achieve the color I was going for. I’ve used tru-oil many times but not in this capacity. For my final top coat, can I still use Tru-oil over the nitro? Do you think it would dry? Or what other options do I have as far as a hand applied top coat? Thx.

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    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yellowing/dye binding HELP?

    Quote Originally Posted by justrythym View Post
    ...can I still use Tru-oil over the nitro? Do you think it would dry? Or what other options do I have as far as a hand applied top coat?
    I have not tried TO over nitro. I suggest finishing a scrap with nitro and trying TO over it. If it adheres well and dries well, then you know that it works... starting out anyway, no guarantee that it will still be fine in 10 years, at least not until your scrap is 10 years old.

    French polish would probably be another had applied option. I would try that on scrap too.

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