fretboard support opinion?

[justrythym]

Guys what wood is acceptable for the fretboard extension support? I have, Ebony, Maple, or Ironwood. Thanks Gentleman

[jim simpson]

I've used Maple since that's what I used for the neck. I have a blonde Collings with a Ebony support. It looks cool in contrast.

[justrythym]

Thanks, yea I just didn’t know if there was a advantage or disadvantage.

[sunburst]

Thanks, yea I just didn’t know if there was a advantage or disadvantage.

No major difference.
In my opinion stability is the most important factor. Also, I try to make all material decisions with total instrument weight in mind, so I like to use the least dense wood that is suitable for the job. Both of those considerations (stability and density) rule out ebony for me, but it is the material of choice for many builders.

[justrythym]

Ebony doesn’t adhere and glue up as well as some other woods, does it? I have read that somewhere? Thx.

[rcc56]

It's a good idea to wipe ebony down with alcohol or lacquer thinner before gluing. The same is true for rosewood.

[justrythym]

Think I may go with maple. I like the look of ebony. Maple dont take black stain very well. What about spraying the maple with black nitro? Before installing? Leaving the contact with the top unpainted? Thx.

[sunburst]

It's a good idea to wipe ebony down with alcohol or lacquer thinner before gluing. The same is true for rosewood.

I've heard and read that many times, but my "education" tells me it is better to refresh the surface (by shaving, scraping, sanding) within 15 minutes of gluing rather than wiping with solvent.

[rcc56]

I like an ebony or rosewood guitar bridge to look "dry and hungry" before I glue it. These days, I wipe, and then if it still looks oily, I'll give it another sanding or scraping, then sometimes wipe again.

I haven't had a flat-top bridge job come loose prematurely in quite a while.

For a fretboard support, the stress is lower, and I wouldn't worry too much about glue failure.

You could try to pre-finish a piece of maple, but the finish might get damaged before you get everything together. If you do pre-finish anything, yes, you must leave all gluing surfaces unfinished.

[buckhorn]

I've always used maple for the extension.. And I've given many, many pieces away with rim and neck sets that I've made for others.. Being the cheep old guy that I am, I never waste materials.. And there can be a lot of useable scrap left over..

[justrythym]

Rcc56, I finally got around to making this fretboard support. I tried the ebony but what I had was so darn hard I just could do much with it. It was also really oily. When I cut it the oil just rolled out of it. I had some nice maple but it was just a little shy. So I laminated a piece of 1/16 walnut I had to it. I finally figured out how to attach a picture. Anyway, here it is so far. It’s ready for sealer and nitro. I will mask off the unfinished areas. The shape is a little unconventional but it matches the profile of the end of the neck. I will attach a picture when finished. It’s a little proud and will need to be leveled after it’s glue on. Thx. Man just trying to learn.

[justrythym]

[rcc56]

Looks like a good solution to me.

[HoGo]

The shape doesn't have to copy shape of fretboard as closely, Loars usually had just king of tongue 1/4" or so shorter than fretboard without the point. Often without too much rounding, just chamfer somewhat softened with sandpaper.
But I would reduce the gluing surface with top to just as much as is supported by body block (and still flat without rise of arch). In my case that's approx 3/4" from crosspiece. I see yours has almost 2" from crosspiece. That can mute part of the working sundboard....

[justrythym]

Looks like a good solution to me.

If it’s necessary I can redo that part. I have sealed it and put the first coat of nitro on it.

Thx. Gentleman

[justrythym]

Looks like a good solution to me.

I have a close up picture of a Loar. It is somewhat scalloped? Anyway, I scalloped this one both sides to reduce the footprint. This ones footprint is 1-9/16 long x 1-3/16 wide at the most narrow part of the scallops. Thoughts?

[Jeff Mando]

I guess this thread could be considered a fretboard support group!

[justrythym]

I guess this thread could be considered a fretboard support group!

Yep! Any thoughts JM?

[Jeff Mando]

It looks like you are on the right track. If you don't like the way it looks, just tint it darker to be less obvious. I don't think most of us go looking there normally. Maybe builders do...

[Rob Roy]

I always was leery of that joint, gluing end grain maple to piece of another material, which was in turn glued to the end grain of the neck. I've seen a picture somewhere of someone putting a steel screw in there to hold it all together. It just doesn't seem like a strong way to support the end of the fretboard. My main concern is down the road, someone pounding frets into the extension area in a refret. Anyway, I came up with an ulterior design where the extension support is glued down to the neck block. Then the extension support and the neck are touch-up leveled before gluing down the neck.

[HoGo]

I always was leery of that joint, gluing end grain maple to piece of another material, which was in turn glued to the end grain of the neck. I've seen a picture somewhere of someone putting a steel screw in there to hold it all together. It just doesn't seem like a strong way to support the end of the fretboard. My main concern is down the road, someone pounding frets into the extension area in a refret. Anyway, I came up with an ulterior design where the extension support is glued down to the neck block. Then the extension support and the neck are touch-up leveled before gluing down the neck.

I don't see any problem in that original joint, the riser block with crosspiece is glued to body block solidly and also butted against top edge of top plate so there is solid anchor for pressure of neck. The supporthas quite large gluing surface to top and fingerboard bridges over the plastic piece so everything is rock solid and relatively simple to make cleanly. Many of the newly invented joints and supports with added tiny pieces are hard to fit and glue without the glue line showing. If someone breaks the suport during refret he should return back into gorilla enclosure