Just curious as to who on here plays a Kentucky mandolin and which one? Description and pics would be nice.
Just curious as to who on here plays a Kentucky mandolin and which one? Description and pics would be nice.
I have a KM-950 which has become my main instrument after selling my Collings and await my new mandolin on order. I like it alot. Bought it used from the Cafe classifieds in as new condition and with upgrades. It had a James tailpiece, Cumberland Acoustic bridge, and black tuner knobs added. It plays very well up and down the neck with plenty of volume and balanced tone across the strings. The 950 is an A style which I have a preference for never having warmed to the looks of an F style. Many Kentucky models do not have a radius fret board, however, the 950 does. A flat fret board is a deal breaker for me. It came with the original Superior hard case. Lots of pictures available online.
Best $850.00 I ever spent!
Big Muddy EM8 solid body (Mike Dulak's final EM8 build)
Kentucky KM-950
Weber Gallatin A Mandola "D hole"
Rogue 100A (current campfire tool & emergency canoe paddle)
Never owned one but have played a couple. They can be nice mandolins.
A KM-950 in the classifieds at the moment...
https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/147203#147203
NFI
Charley
A bunch of stuff with four strings
Everything you could possibly want to know about my KM-272 in this old thread . . . .
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...+km-272+review
Big Muddy EM8 solid body (Mike Dulak's final EM8 build)
Kentucky KM-950
Weber Gallatin A Mandola "D hole"
Rogue 100A (current campfire tool & emergency canoe paddle)
To the Op, are you looking at low end or high end Kentuckys?
Charley
A bunch of stuff with four strings
I had a 950 a few years ago and thought it was great, especially for the price.
My plan was to sell a much more expensive instrument I had, pocket a bunch of cash, and then be happy with the 950. In the end, it wasn’t the right plan, but I did really like that mandolin. Great value!
Steve Hartz the old time historian and fiddler? I got a book and an album by him.
I have a KM150 which is quite good. I took the pickguard off which benefited the sound and now I'm taking bets on how long it'll take to wear through the finish with my pinky. My bet is it'll never happen, despite the numerous playing hours it gets
Mandolin: Kentucky KM150
Other instruments: way too many, and yet, not nearly enough.
My blog: https://theoffgridmusician.music.blog/
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChF...yWuaTrtB4YORAg
My Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/africanbanjogunnar/
Free backing tracks:
https://backingtrackers.wordpress.com/
I have a KM 150 that is absolutely a great mando as well as a Rover RM75 which is, in theory, basvially a KM 630. Love 'em both.
"It doesn't matter how much you invest in your instrument until you invest in you and your ability..."
Kentucky KM-150
Eastman MD-404
Eastman MD-305
Morgan Monroe MFM-300 (passed on to a new player)
Rover RM-75
I have found the Master Series Kentuckys to be a cut above the lesser Kentuckys and Eastmans I have owned. Though, I was really enanmored with my Collings MT I recently sold to fund a new build, my KM-950 comes close and in some respects exceeds my former MT.
Hard to beat the value of a prior owned Master Series Kentucky A Style. The additional cost of an F Style Master Series Kentucky would instead have me looking at other A Style mandos from the many quality, smaller, US builders.
Big Muddy EM8 solid body (Mike Dulak's final EM8 build)
Kentucky KM-950
Weber Gallatin A Mandola "D hole"
Rogue 100A (current campfire tool & emergency canoe paddle)
I bought a 'shop worn' (I couldn't see a single mark on it) that I was told would need a new saddle 'eventually' (it was tilted ever so slightly), so it was priced reasonably deducting for a simple saddle & set up. I reached out to Bruce Weber at Montana Lutheire about 6 months ago and he made one heck of a saddle and bridge. (To me putting on an inexpensive saddle & bridge would be like buying a solid front door and using wooden pegs for the hinges and locks.) The frets needed a good leveling and of course a setup, I broke my wrist and never really regained the strength and dexterity to do certain things.
All totaled I think it came to under $500 but it has a beautiful sustain and bark. I have no regrets.
Kentucky mandolins can vary pretty widely in price so take that into consideration.
—
And once the storm is over, you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive. You won’t even be sure, whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm, you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.
I have a KM-150 that my wife bought me as a birthday present 10 years (?) ago. Still have it; still use it as travel/beater. Great little mandolin.
Also have an older (1980s) Japanese built KM-1500. Excellent mandolin IMO.
Saw this KM-850 (also 1980s from Japan) advertised for sale by a little music shop in Chicago. Don't see them too often so I took a chance. Nice mandolin. Beefier neck than the 1500 and heavier than the other two but still nice tone and volume. (pics of the 850 below)
"I play BG so that's what I can talk intelligently about." A line I loved and pirated from Mandoplumb
The finish on my KM956 is very thin. I'm sure this helps the tone and volume. The very thin finish is one of the reasons I had a custom pick guard made for it.
I have a Kentucky KM-270, and I guess I’m in the minority here in that I don’t love it. I would say it sounds okay, but not great, and I’d say the same about the build quality. It’s got sloppy finish work all around the neck joint and a shoddy-looking headstock logo and faux “inlay”. A little bolt holding the pick guard assembly together regularly falls off, and the end pin keeps falling out. Overall it just has a cheap feel to it.
I did have it set up, and it plays comfortably. It sounds okay, especially on the high strings, but it’s rather thin and one-dimensional compared to other mandos I’ve played recently, including an Eastman 605 and a Collings MT-2. I realize that’s not really a fair comparison, but the bottom line is that the KM-270 just doesn’t inspire me, and I’m looking forward to replacing it with a new mando I’m expecting next week.
I have a Kentucky KM-805 I got in trade for a guitar that while I liked the sound, it was just uncomfortable to play. It is my only F-style mandolin, so it has gotten to stay for 2 years. It is not of the caliber of my Pava, Collings, or Weber, but it is usually the mandolin I play out of the house because I don't obsess as much about it being damaged as I do the others (although it has no dings yet.) It's okay, and probably unfair to compare it to my other mandolins because the price point is MUCH different. It is a good value for what the trade price was.
I bought a KM180-B over 30 years ago. I think it sounds better now than long ago, might sound even better if the black lacquer finish was a little thinner. (Thought about this as a project several times). I have some higher end mandos that sound better, but for some reason, this one is the easiest to play compared to any other instrument I have ever tried. Gave it a new nut and file-smoothed the ends of the frets long ago. (I think nearly every mando less than about $800 can benefit by this).
My first mandolin was a KM 675-S built the first year Saga moved production to China. They were still working out some kinks, and it had some issues, though all were admittedly not Saga’s fault (it was an eBay purchase and wasn’t kept in a climate controlled environment, apparently). With about as much money in luthier work as I spent on the thing I got it playable and it served me well for several years. It had a pretty thick finish, was loud, and had decent starter mandolin tone, but after I got my Silverangel it really didn’t get any play except in beater type situations, which only reinforced how much more I liked the SA. I eventually gave it to a friend’s kid, set up with crazy low action and EJ 62s, to wail on as recklessly as he likes.
That said, Kentucky has really upped their game since then, and I think their KM 150 and their master series instruments represent some of the best values available presently. While I would still choose my SA over the 900 and 1000 series mandolins (especially for what I payed for it used in 2011), there are some real gems to be had in those lines.
Chuck
Me, I have four of those rascals. I have a KM150 like everyone else which since it has opened up is a great mandolin with a great sound. Next is a KM171, which is out of production now. It is a black top oval that I have a set of heavy strings on and it is a killer. Then I have a KM272 which was all the rage a few years back. It really chops well for an oval, but it hasn't opened up quite yet. I haven't played it nearly as much as the KM150 and 171. Now for the real gem. I have a KM855 Bella Voce, not many of these around, the F model with all the neck inlay. It is a dandy and a little canon to boot. I've thought about selling all of my A's and buying an F5 Gibson, but I just hate to part with them as they all sound good to me and I've had them for quite some time.
Follow the Flatt Stanley Incident on Facebook
Listen to original tune "When You Fly" by my old band The Kindreds
Never sure how to describe tone, but I will give it a shot. The MT had very sweet sounding highs and the lows were dark but not necessiarily clear. The 950 lows are not as dark but clear and the highs are not as sweet. I'm a light picker and had to dig in harder on the MT to get volume.
Hope that helps. I find tone to be very subjective and have had some people tell me they like the 950 better and others say they miss my Collings. So there you have it, for what it's worth.
Big Muddy EM8 solid body (Mike Dulak's final EM8 build)
Kentucky KM-950
Weber Gallatin A Mandola "D hole"
Rogue 100A (current campfire tool & emergency canoe paddle)
Bookmarks