Has anyone here tried making liquid hide glue with salt as an alternative to hot hide glue or urea-based (like Titebond etc)?
Option #3 here:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/a...n-liquid-form/
Has anyone here tried making liquid hide glue with salt as an alternative to hot hide glue or urea-based (like Titebond etc)?
Option #3 here:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/a...n-liquid-form/
I am a luthier specialising in historical and world stringed instruments. You can see more info at my website.
I'm able to glue on an entire upright bass back or top in one session using traditional hot hide glue with no additives and no help. With a little practice, you should be able to do the same thing for a mandolin.....
+1 I have done that many times also, just takes planning.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
I am a luthier specialising in historical and world stringed instruments. You can see more info at my website.
I once made a pass at brewing some up with a different recipe, but did not use it.
I have occasionally used HHG with urea for internal repairs when I needed longer open time to get my clamps and jacks set. My current recipe is 2 parts water, one part ~200 grade glue flakes, and one tenth part urea. This recipe must be used hot. I let the glued joints cure for a minimum of 48 hours [3 days is better] before putting them under stress.
This is still an experimental procedure for me. I have one such job in progress now. If I have a failure, I will post again.
For straight-forward glueings such as plates, fingerboards, neck resets, and guitar bridges, I prefer to use pure hot hide glue.
Informative article. Might guess that what’s good enough for the Smithsonian furniture collection is well-understood, but instruments live in a more varied climate, so unless you can find some more evidence, that heavy salt content might be problematic. Your beautiful products, after all, are intended for as many centuries of durability as their models.
Yes, I found the 2:1 ratio of glue flakes to salt given in the article to be worrisome. That's a lot of salt.
I gave this a try over the last couple of days using the recipe linked above and the results are as follows.
With salt added, it does stay liquid at room temperature, so it does work. However, some of the salt ends up collecting at the bottom and not mixing, suggesting (as above) it's too much salt. I will now do some strength tests so see how effective it is vs normal hot hide glue.
I am a luthier specialising in historical and world stringed instruments. You can see more info at my website.
I came across this thread while researching liquid hide glue recipes. I am curious how your testing went with your liquid hide glue solution. I may have used the same recipe that you did becaused my jar had about 3/8" of undissolved salt remaining at the bottom after it was made. See attached image.
I will be testing how well this glue works today. I am not a luthier. I use traditional hide glue for veneer work and have always been curious how well LHG would work for adhering walnut veneer. If it works, as I hope it will, that will be great because it will eliminate the glue pot and hammer veneering steps required when using HHG.
I will report back with my test results.
Best,
Phillip Anthony
Last edited by Phillip Anthony; Feb-25-2020 at 1:44pm. Reason: correct spelling
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