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Thread: A recent Mini Squire conversion

  1. #1

    Default A recent Mini Squire conversion

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

    Default Re: A recent Mini Squire conversion

    Nice, but inquiring minds want to know what the bridge and tailpiece look like.
    Play it like you mean it.

  3. #3

    Default Re: A recent Mini Squire conversion

    I've had this one done for quite a while but only just put a finish on the neck with the decals at the request of a client. It successfully tunes to that of a mandola. The C and the G-strings are octave splits. It could just as easily be tuned as an octave mandolin. I don't actually remember the scale length. The width of the neck was narrowed to about 1.5" at the nut. The single saddle is made from brass. Click image for larger version. 

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    String gauges are 9/9, 13/13, 10,22W 17/34W
    There are no negative issues associated with using the original Chinese made 6-pole pickups. Its a fun instrument.

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  5. #4

    Default Re: A recent Mini Squire conversion

    The single saddle idea allows you to use either a hardtail string-through bridge like this or a typical tremolo bridge and end up with a functioning tremolo. Way beyond my ability to employ a trem while playing an eight string mando type instrument but I'd bet that there are wild and crazy people who could.

    One of the important things with this saddle is to drill the intonation holes one or two steps larger than the normal drill size before you tap the threads and this allows slight angles away from 90 degrees for intonation. Not too loose but enough to yield a little latitude. I prefer the split octaves for the two lower pitch pairs. It gives a chime in clean amplification and all sorts of complexity with dirty overdrive. Its not better, its just different. The single saddle is much easier without the split octaves. The brass saddle starts out as a 1/4 X 3/16" bar stock from McMasterCarr.

    On these conversions, I find it easier if I slightly shim the neck pocket to get a bit of neck angle allowing me to make the saddle just a little taller and not be concerned that the saddle is going to be weak and succumb to string tension. I like using brass as it doesn't clog up my files and is a lot easier to work than aluminum. The intonation screws don't need to be terribly strong. They simply locate the saddle in the right place. There is a bit of torsion on them but I've never had 4-40 stainless screws show any sign of being too weak.

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