I have read through some older post it appears there was some issues with truss rods and necks?
Also is the first 4 digits of the serial number the year and month? If so mine is 2018. I though they were discontinued.
Any help appreciated.
I have read through some older post it appears there was some issues with truss rods and necks?
Also is the first 4 digits of the serial number the year and month? If so mine is 2018. I though they were discontinued.
Any help appreciated.
I thought they were still making them, and as far as I know the recent Kentuckys have been really good, but I'm not an expert. Someone else with more knowledge will hopefully lend some insight
Mandolin: Kentucky KM150
Other instruments: way too many, and yet, not nearly enough.
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Check the setup measurements found in Rob Meldrum's free E book to determine if you need a setup.
Silverangel A
Arches F style kit
1913 Gibson A-1
Ok great I emailed him to get the free ebook. It has a good setup on it aleast I feel it does. I have a Loar 700 , Eastman Md315 and now this Kentucky. I sold the Eastman cause I preferred the woddy tone of the Loar. I feel this Kentucky is kinda in the middle of the Loar and Eastman far as tone goes. Kentucky definitely plays easiest. I didnt have to sand the bridge feet. They are touching every part of the top. Just raised the bridge up a tad and it was good for me.
I’d say Kentucky has been a reliable brand for years, albeit with hot and cold quality control reviews. They seem to surge for a while with really talented builders - like Sumi - then lose those builders because they’re so good. At the very least, I’d say you get what you pay for, and sometimes a whole lot more. When I owned one of the A-900s a few years ago, it underwhelmed, but I’ve played some K-600s and K-1000s that we’re worth more than the asking price.
What you can do is the fun part. Play the heck out of it and see where it takes you.
Hamlett Two-Point
Eastman MD805
Schertler DYN-M + Yellow
http://www.youtube.com/ktbriggs
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There were at least 2 different iterations of the KM-650. It was the one made circa 2007-2008 that had the neck and truss rod issues. They discontinued that one the new version that they now make is a complete redesign and no known issues. So it is important to determine which one you have the earlier one or the recent one. If it is the earlier one that doesn’t mean it has the problem. Some did and some didn’t. Check the truss rod for operation by loosening and re-tightening, and check the neck for proper orientation in all three axes. Up down, side to side, and twist. Or as another of our members puts it, “roll, pitch, and yaw”.
Don
2016 Weber Custom Bitterroot F
2011 Weber Bitterroot A
1974 Martin Style A
like eastman's , in my experience , the entry level kentuckys seem to sound better than the intermediate models .....then the kentucky seem to get good aain as you get into the 900's and above . I've played a few 600's that , as you say , seemed to fall in-between..... lacking tonal depth and character . I am curious about the Loars .
I don’t know, man.... I played a dynamite 815V a few years ago. It was the best Eastman I ever played. I think the issue is simply quality control, and add in that we expect the more expensive instruments to be superior. That 815V was also more suited to sound good, theoretically, with the red spruce, varnish, etc.
Hamlett Two-Point
Eastman MD805
Schertler DYN-M + Yellow
http://www.youtube.com/ktbriggs
https://www.facebook.com/kevin.briggs.1213
Ive had Loar 590 , 600, and this 700. The 700 just has a very woody old tone. The other were ok. The Eastman Md315 was ok too but didnt speak to me. I feel it did sound better than the Loar 590 and 600. I have an old Kentucky 620 thats prob 20 years old. Its ok entry level but this new 650 is something else. Not as woody as the Loar 700 but it just has a better response and plays better for me. I think I'll swap out the EJ74 for some Monels that should put me closer to what I like. Awsome feedback fellas. Much appreciated
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