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Thread: on finishing, ( finally)

  1. #1
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    Default on finishing, ( finally)

    what is your finishing schedule after the last coat? days before wet sanding, what grit to go down to , polishing. etc. that is where I am this morning
    Mike Marrs

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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    Last coat of what? Lots of variables depending on what you used. Nitro lacquer, at least 2 weeks. Wet sand 1000 up to 2000 and then buff. Oil varnish can be a lot longer and depends on the brand and type used.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    Pratt and Lambert " Fabulon" polyurethane

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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    That's a new one to me. I've never used a poly finish. I imagine it cures fast like lacquer? In that case, probably 2 weeks wait time. Let us know how it turns out.

  5. #5
    Registered User mandolinstew's Avatar
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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    used fabulon on hardwood floor,didn’t like it

  6. #6

    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    Since probably nobody else has used Fabulon on a mandolin, not sure we can tell you exactly how long to wait. 2 weeks is probably wise, without knowing anything else about it. I wait a couple days to a week before level sanding out water-based poly finishes.

    Sand lightly with 400 grit backed with dense felt to get close to level, 600 grit to perfectly level. If using a water-based poly, dry sand, don't wet sand.

    Sand with Micro-Mesh abrasive 2"x2" abrasive pads, 1500 and 1800 grit. Then on to the brown Menzerna and ivory Menzerna and finally Swirl Remover by hand on a lint-free cotton cloth.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    I've never used Fabulon on a mandolin. I may have used it on some other wood stuff. Regardless, agree with Marty. But you do have to be careful because most polyurethanes don't "burn into" the coat below them. They adhere mechanically. This means if you sand through the top coat, you will get "witness lines". Where when the light hits it a certain angles, you can see the line depthwise of where the two (or three) coats meet. From my experience, getting rid of those can be problematic. I have had success with a buffing wheel, but you are kind of playing with fire. It seems like the heat from the buffing is the cure but also you could be in danger of getting too hot. If the witness lines do show up, you can french polish a light coat of shellac over the top.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    I had seen in a recent post Mr Dudenbostel used a product by Pratt and Lambert, I think called "38" When I found a paint store that had it, the guy told me P&L, had a new parent company, dropped "38' and this was their replacement, and they thought it was a little harder finish. It is hanging right now, but looks very nice

  9. #9

    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    Modern waterbased varnishes don't have trouble with witness lines, especially when all the coats are applied within a few hours of each other. Most people probably wouldn't notice witness lines, even if you do get them.

    I'm amazed how many times I obsess over a repair or finish, then the customer doesn't even look at it.

  10. The following members say thank you to Marty Jacobson for this post:


  11. #10
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    Default Re: on finishing, ( finally)

    Marty, I know the feeling.

  12. The following members say thank you to Dale Ludewig for this post:


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