binding channel cutting options

[Bob Laughlin]

thanks andrew and marty for sharing your setups - really enjoyed both your websites too - beautiful work

i may get around to a router table setup, or not, clearly its the way to go - (still haven't seen marty's video though)

and steve thx for info on the stewmac true channel thingie - i was wondering if it worked for arched mandolins

i'm retired and make 4 instruments a year now so tedium is not a huge problem - plus i have 15 watts in my apt. buildings parking garage shop - i need to turn some lights off to run the 6x48 sander with shop vac - but i'm enjoying the process more than ever - we're blessed with this vocation

[amowry]

I think this is the video Marty shared. We’ll see if this works...

https://youtu.be/W6JFwPVfveE

[Parker135]

That is a really impressive setup. Way beyond my needs as a hobbyist but I still appreciate the design.

Thanks for posting the link Andrew.

[putnamm]

This thing is fantastic, reliable, safe . . . and worth every penny if you are doing more than a couple of instruments. One of the best purchases I've made in the past 10 years. Well worth every cent.

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool..._Bits_Set.html

Steve

Steve, did you have to modify the cradle that comes with this kit or build a new one to accommodate a mandolin body?

Mark

[putnamm]

I think this is the video Marty shared. We’ll see if this works...

https://youtu.be/W6JFwPVfveE

so between the Elevate and the StewMac TrueChannel jigs, it appears that the Elevate would be the better choice for archtop instruments since it references the instrument rib and not the top. Am I thinking of that correctly?

[amowry]

They both reference both the rib and the top. I think with archtop guitars, the choice would be mostly your working position. I doubt you could use the Elevate jig with mandolin because the ribs are so narrow. The Tru-Channel jig also seems like it might be a little more ergonomic? I have the Tru-Channel jig too, and while it works pretty well, I much prefer being able to use a 1/4" downcut spiral than those big bits with bearings. In my experience, a spiral cuts cleaner and can get closer into tight spots like you find on an F5. It's also much less expensive to replace. Those big doughnut guides that rest on the top also make it hard to reach full depth in areas where the top/back surfaces ramp up quickly, like around an F5 scroll.

One advantage of the Elevate jig (besides easier adjustment) is that if you ever build instruments with tapered bodies, like flat-top guitars, you can hold that jig perpendicular to both the sides and the top at all times. Because the Tru-Channel jig (or a torque reaction arm) always holds the router vertically, the sloping back on a tapered body will be slightly out of square with the router bit, which leaves you with a bit of cleanup to do (not too bad). Stew-Mac doesn't mention this in their documentation.

FWIW, most guitar "factories" use something similar to that Elevate jig.

[drumgerry]

I have the elevate jig and just used it to rout the channel on my Sobell style "Celtic" mandolin. It worked really well. The width of the sides isn't an issue as elevate sell a solid guide which replaces the dumbell standard guide. I think routing the scroll area on an F5 style might be an issue just because of the slope of the top down to the side but for "standard" curves it works really well

[drumgerry]

[doodle]

I like this arm, but others devices permit the router to "float". I don't see how that can happen with the arm; does it? I have suspended efforts with my converted radial arm saw router as it won't allow the router to float. (Have removed the saw motor, and replaced it with a router.) After viewing your rig, I wondering if the float thing is really necessary. I assume there is a donut or dome on your router base plate, Is there one? If the "float " thing is unnecessary, I may continue with my radial arm rig. Thanks for posting! ja

[Richard500]

The Canada Arm, if too expensive, is similar to some things that might be found surplus or at the dump. I picked up one with the parallelogram arms and springs that once held a TV or monitor, or possibly something medical. Meant to support about 20 pounds. Didn’t use it for a router; a small spotwelder that’s a little too heavy for hand-held. Another option, often used in manufacturing, is the spring reel that attaches overhead. A friend gave me an ancient one that once controlled the roof electrical arms on a trolley!