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Thread: Replacing Gotoh Tuners

  1. #1

    Default Replacing Gotoh Tuners

    I am looking at upgrading my tuners. I currently have Gotoh A style tuners. I am considering replacing them with Schaller Grandtune or Rubner's, Waverly's are not in the budget. The post spacing is the same on all three, but the mounting holes are slightly different to having to fill a few holes and drill new ones on a couple. Also the length of the plate is 109mm on the Gotoh, 106 on the Rubner's and 105 for the Grandtune's. So I am hoping someone has done this upgrade and can give some advice. Any issues with doing it and are there witness lines from the extra length of the Gotoh tuners?
    Is there any US suppliers of Rubner's or do you have to order direct?
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Replacing Gotoh Tuners

    Can't help you visa vie the mounting holes or the witness lines, but funny how the grass is always greener. I was thinking of trying some Gotohs in place of the Grand Tunes that came on my mandolin. Never been too happy with them. Tuners binding on the base side, pretty hard to turn, and the buttons working loose and developing play. I had heard the Gotohs might be more forgiving if the mandolin's post holes weren't drilled perfectly precisely. Mine is F style though.

  3. #3
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: Replacing Gotoh Tuners

    When you order Rubner's from the website they are shipped from the US.

    As long as the screw holes are under the plate there isn't much of an issue. You can fill the hole with a round toothpick and wood glue and carefully cut off the excess with a razor blade. I put Waverly tuners on my F5G and had to resolve the screw hole issue. Here is a thread with some pictures that might help you in the process. The tuner bushings might be a bigger issue.
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
    --M. Stillion

    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
    --J. Garber

  4. #4

    Default Re: Replacing Gotoh Tuners

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeEdgerton View Post
    When you order Rubner's from the website they are shipped from the US.

    As long as the screw holes are under the plate there isn't much of an issue. You can fill the hole with a round toothpick and wood glue and carefully cut off the excess with a razor blade. I put Waverly tuners on my F5G and had to resolve the screw hole issue. Here is a thread with some pictures that might help you in the process. The tuner bushings might be a bigger issue.
    Let me add, do not rely on rubner to know what fits.
    I recently upgraded my rigel a. It had gotohs.

    I asked if the tuners would fit.
    They did not, due to the close angled “A” configuration. Essentially the tuner plates touch at the top of the “A”. The post spacing was fine. Only 3 of the 5 screw holes aligned. Personally, I think 3 would be fine, and there is no need to drill for the other 2. The pull is not enough to really push the plate down, and 3 screws ought to be fine.

    One version of rubners has a worm gear support that extends beyond the plate.
    Apparently, there is a second version with a flush, non protruding support. At the time of purchase, this second design wasnt shown. Nor was that version sent.

    But, i relied upon the seller to know the product and if it would fit.
    There was inadequate room to install them, without modifying the end cap screws.

    Unfortunately for me, my luthier altered the protruding end cap screws to get an “close” fit. The upper most 2 tuners actually bind , but are functional, more or less. The rest are very nice.

    The tuners themselves are superb. Product knowledge, not so much.
    For me a frustrating and expensive experience.

    Rubner offered me the correct set at a discount. But im out $149 plus $85 for the install. With a second set, im approaching waverlies .

    Not a good experience.

  5. #5
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: Replacing Gotoh Tuners

    You might note that the Rigel headstock shape and tuner placement is pretty extreme in relation to other mandolins. I think Pete did that on purpose to get a straight shot to the nut. Other makes may not have the same issue.
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
    --M. Stillion

    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
    --J. Garber

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