in thousands, how far do you guys take your sides?, and do you thin them more in tight curves? I have Hogos prints, and tried to use calipers to measure thickness, but it looks thinner around the neck block, maybe just these old eyes
in thousands, how far do you guys take your sides?, and do you thin them more in tight curves? I have Hogos prints, and tried to use calipers to measure thickness, but it looks thinner around the neck block, maybe just these old eyes
Mike Marrs
I usually start with somewhere between .070" and .080" and when necessary (some wood bends better than other wood) I further thin the areas where the tight bends are. I've gone as thin as just over .040" for the point and scroll areas of F-style mandolins. Those areas are glued to internal blocks so they don't really need to be any more than veneers.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
kterry
thanks fellows, I have made 1 A model, and 2 F's , but the last one was almost 10 years ago, so I am having a hard time remembering everything. I am using Siminoffs book for reference on this one, but ordered Hogos prints
Mike Marrs
I just got those prints they are excellent!
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
I concur with .08---of course, wood that is flat sawn, IMHO, tends to bend more easily than heavily quilted, birdseye or fiddle figured maple. I have found that patience is very important and it pays to have a mist bottle handy. Have found that it thinning the material down to .07 and even .06 at the tightest curves seems to help---strength can be built back into the sides with an additional veneer later.
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