The listing in our classified for "Trad. Bridge By MT Luthie"

[Tenzin]

I just felt the need to comment if anyone is in need of upgrading to a new bridge. Our classified section has a listing for "Traditional Bridge By MT Lutherie" from

https://www.montanalutherie.com/prod...bridge-nickel/

I had one installed on an inexpensive Kentucky. (It was very inexpensive because it was an open box and a demo model and the rosewood bridge was [I]slightly[I] tiltling.)

First, getting the bridge was not just an 'enter your payment' deal. The person spent almost an hour on the phone discussing the bracing of my particular mandolin, how I liked the action etc.)

The actual product was a work of art. Rather than just the 'wheel' adjustments, it also was fit so a thin wrench (which was included), could be use "under full tension". (I didn't try that out...I'm not so brave.)

After being properly fitted and installed, I have to say that it really brought out the bark in a relatively inexpensive mandolin.

The entire process was a pleasure. At first, I had some doubts about whether putting that was 'worth it'. I have no doubts now. 10/10 would do it again.

[Bob Buckingham]

Bruce and Mary are fine folks. I spent some time on the phone with Bruce last fall talking about the bridge on my Weber Bighorn. He was a big help. Glad it worked out for you.

[Gary Leonard]

Don't be afraid of doing adjustments under tension, that was what it was made for. You shouldn't have to raise the action very high after it has been setup properly. If you do have to make a large adjustment, then simply detune the strings a bit. Remember that the saddle is just one piece of the puzzle. You might be able to fix a slight buzz by raising one side of the bridge, but perhaps you really needed a bit of neck relief, or humidification instead. I do remember having my Weber a bit off kilter, bass side way higher. If you have had a good setup, and action is where it feels good, record the string heights so you have a good reference point.