Questions on Hanging Vintage Washburn

[Screenclassics]

I know there is not full agreement in the group on whether to hang or store, but I do plan to hang my 1905-06 Washburn on display. My questions concerns how to do it.

I want to use a board a couple of feet wide, so that I can hang something else on it as well. Is it better to have the board thin enough that the hooks go right into the wall or is it okay to afix the board to the wall and the hooks to the board? The way I'm hoping to do the board(s), it might be 1-1/2 to 2 inches thick and I'm wondering if a hook can go through all that and be secure in the wall.

Second question re hanging, thus far in my search for hooks, I don't see any that are specifically for bowlbacks.... does anyone know of any or would I maybe need an extra block of wood to make that hook go further out?

Am scheduled to have my first lesson on my Eastman on Wednesday

Thanks,

Jan

[Ray(T)]

I had my old Silvestri hanging on a standard “String-Swing” hanger for nearly 20 years, until we decided to re-plaster the wall, with no adverse consequences. The Hercules grasping ones stick out further than the string swings so should be even less of a problem

[CES]

I’d anchor the board to the wall and then put the hanger in the board. The 2” thick board should secure the hangers well. Anchor the board to a stud if you can find one. If not, I’d use toggle bolts designed to hold a couple hundred pounds.

I’m not sure whether you’d have to extend the hanger for the bowl back or not, but that can be a game time decision. You could also hang it conventionally but put the mandolin bowl out. Good luck!

[Screenclassics]

Thanks! Helpful information from both of you! I’m definitely hoping we can find studs to anchor board to. Thanks also for the tip about the hooks that are a bit longer.

Jan

[allenhopkins]

Besides the question of the security of the hangers, be aware that without any case storage, your bowl-back will be sensitive to the ambient temperature and humidity of the room. You're in AZ, where it's dry, dry, dry; thin straight-grained wood, like the top of the mandolin, is subject to splitting when the wood cells lose moisture and shrink. Bowl-backs also are subject to cracks between the ribs of the back, for similar reasons.

Good room humidification can mitigate the effects of low atmospheric humidity, but it's something to pay attention to. Were I displaying a similar instrument in a similar situation, I'd investigate a sealable display case or cabinet, which would permit better humidity control.

Many instruments go through dry periods relatively unscathed, but being "hung out to dry," so to speak (there's a pointed metaphor!) may impair the decorative affect, if the instrument suffers some damage.

[Screenclassics]

Allen, I hear you loud and clear. This mandolin lived in California its first 96-97 years, then in Arizona for the next 16 and ongoing. We never heard of the humidity issue until I took it into the shop. It just came out from the humidifier (a week) at the shop. Fortunately it was not damaged too much and partially cane back after being in their humidifier. Seriously lucky. I will be setting up a humidifier near the display, but will also take it down every week or so, put in somewhere sealed with humidity. I wish I could find a case for it and use that part of the tine, but they don’t seem to exist anymore.

[Screenclassics]

String Swing accommodated me by putting a longer “stem” on the hook, like they do for the hangers for Jumbo Guitars. Claudia helped me and hangers were shipped the next day. Worked out perfectly!